Hand-cut dovetails: "Cutting to the line"

[Al Navas]

I am sure that most of you are experienced at hand-cut dovetails, and can cut them MUCH better than I ever could. But I wanted to share this, in the hope of helping those just starting.

From my blog:

A reader of my blog has had trouble cutting to the line when hand-cutting dovetails. Therefore, she would like to improve the fit, by making sure to better cut to the line. I promised I would try to document how I do it.

I found that using either the index finger fingernail, or the thumb fingernail, to create a "fence" for the saw, works best for me. Threrefore, I first place the fingernail exactly on the line, and then I place the saw on the board:

Once the saw is on the board, I sight down the cheek of the saw to the extent I can - the back gets in the way, as it is considerably thicker than the saw blade. By sighting down the cheek I get the best feel for the angle at which to hold the saw, thus giving me a good chance at being able to get the angle correctly. Note that the saw appears to be quite a distance to the right of the mark in this photo - THIS is exactly what it should look like:

Keeping my finger/nail "fence" in place, and using a very light touch, I start the cut on the push motion (if using a Japanese saw, you must start the cut using a pull motion). Some people refer to this light touch as de-weighting the saw (I think this is the most-used term). This "light touch" also means that you are exerting on the saw *only* the force required to push and pull the saw on the board - no more, and no less.

Once the kerf is established, I remove my finger "fence" and complete the cut while sighting down the cheek of the saw. If the saw is not following the line, I do not try to correct it by steering the saw. It is impossible to do so with a dovetail saw, and it is also not recommended. The best thing to do: Start over.

I am certain that when I first started my hand-cut dovetails practice sessions I was tense, and therefore it was difficult to start the cut on the push motion. And I was amazed at how easy it was once I used as light a touch as possible.

It took me a while to realize this *is* the proper way to be to best cut to the line. With very minor adjustments it is possible to even "split the line" - provided, of course, that the line is wide enough to be "split".

During the Dovetails session at Woodworking in America (Parts 1, 2, and 3), Frank Klausz recommended to "...split the line when cutting the pins; and cut on the waste side of the line - the pins side - when cutting the tails..." Of course, Klausz cuts pins first.



.

[Mark Roderick]

That is an extremely useful post. I do exactly the same thing using the side of my thumb, but I've never before seen a picture. All the books talk about "cutting to the line" or "splitting the line" or things like that, but in this case a picture really is worth a thousand words.

[Al Navas]

Mark,

I am very glad it helped! Like you, I had never seen it done this way either. As a result, my hope is that it will help many others.

I appreciate your very positive feedback!


.