question set up

[Kevin C. Johnson]

I'm about to engrave on the thin Laser Lights .002 thick. I generally only use .125 Plastic. I'm thinking that this thin plastic will be a change to cut and engrave on. Any body out their have some suggestions!

thanks

[Joe Pelonio]

It's easy to engrave through it, so start with low power and do a test. Also, it has to be perfectly flat. I think I last used speed 100, power 25 at 400 dpi
with my 45 watt.

[Jay Beller]

Raster should only be a minor drop in power - perhaps 20%

Vector will be significant. On a 35w, I'm cutting at 50s 30p 500f, compared to .125 plastic, which I cut at 25s 80p 500f.

[James Rambo]

I use vector 85 speed 9 power
raster 90 speed 26 power

[Kevin C. Johnson]

thank you all!!!

[Michael Hunter]

The different colours need slightly different settings for rastering - annoying as you have to test each colour separately. Blue and red are the furthest from the norm.

On the other hand, vector kiss-cutting (through the plastic, but NOT through the paper backing) is pretty consistent for all colours.

White top with black core tends to get black dust stuck to the surface after rastering (also the latest batch of yellow/black which is less shiny than previously).
If lighter fluid/naphtha won't get the mess off, try polishing the sheet with "Mr Sheen" or similar aerosol wax polish first, before engraving - then it cleans up easily.

There are special "sticky mats" for holding laserlights etc. flat on the machine bed, but these are usualy very expensive (though lasting a long time). A cheaper alternative is Dycem multi-purpose non-slip material glued to a plywood board.

If you can't get blue/white laserlights to engrave properly then give up!
The blue is very agressive and migrates through the white underlayer (but not evenly all over the sheet) - this makes old stock impossible to engrave well.