Bandsaw bearing guides

[Mike OMelia]

I am still working on getting my bandsaw setup (fine tuned). Jet 18", 3 hp motor. My question centers on the upper and lower bearing guides. I believe I have the upper ones set well. But is it the goal of the guides (upper & lower) to have the rollers "just" not rotating during unloaded operation? (but they will roll depending on cutting load and direction)

Mike

[Tom Esh]

...I believe I have the upper ones set well. But is it the goal of the guides (upper & lower) to have the rollers "just" not rotating during unloaded operation? (but they will roll depending on cutting load and direction) Mike

Yep, that's the idea. Also make sure the lateral guide bearings are behind the blade gullets enough (maybe 1/16") so they cannot contact the teeth when feeding.

[Aaron Wingert]

I usually use a business card to set the small gap between the blade and the roller guides. I've seen it done with a dollar bill folded in half, but have found that it just isn't enough clearance to the blade from really spinning the bearings like crazy.

[Rick Fisher]

I find the closer the better, as long as the bearings arent spinning when the blade isnt cutting.

My other saw has Carter guides, which are much easier to set up than Delta guides. (or I assume Jet). They are pricey but if your okay with that, you might have a look at them.

[Chris Padilla]

Interesting.

Do you guys try to set up your blades such that they are perpendicular to the table top?

I've found in order to do this, I've had to use one of the upper or lower guides to push the blade one direction or the other. I guess this means my wheels are not in alignment with each other?

Anyway, maybe I'll be wearing out my guide bearings faster that everyone else but on occasion, they spin like the dickens. I find this is the only way to get nice even all-around veneers from resawing.

I have the Euro guides on my Minimax 20" BS.

[Pat Germain]

I've been doing much adjusting of my guides of late while ramping up to make band saw boxes. I'm finding the method of "just enough gap to keep the bearings from spinning" is working best.

So what about cool blocks? Are those actually better than roller bearings? My band saw is a Grizzly 17" (G0513x2).

[Bill White]

I've been doing much adjusting of my guides of late while ramping up to make band saw boxes. I'm finding the method of "just enough gap to keep the bearings from spinning" is working best.

So what about cool blocks? Are those actually better than roller bearings? My band saw is a Grizzly 17" (G0513x2).

I have the Cool Blocks on my Magna (don't laugh-it is really a good small BS). Well worth the $$$.
Bill

[David Romano]

Chris,
I keep my blade and table top perpendicular in both axes. Which guide are you using to push the blade, the side bearings or the rear? Regardless, shimming the tabletop/trunnions should solve the problem.

David

Interesting.

Do you guys try to set up your blades such that they are perpendicular to the table top?

I've found in order to do this, I've had to use one of the upper or lower guides to push the blade one direction or the other. I guess this means my wheels are not in alignment with each other?

Anyway, maybe I'll be wearing out my guide bearings faster that everyone else but on occasion, they spin like the dickens. I find this is the only way to get nice even all-around veneers from resawing.

I have the Euro guides on my Minimax 20" BS.

[Chris Padilla]

Chris,
I keep my blade and table top perpendicular in both axes. Which guide are you using to push the blade, the side bearings or the rear? Regardless, shimming the tabletop/trunnions should solve the problem.

David

Actually, that is a good point about shimming the table top...hadn't thought of it because, well, it is too easy to adjust the guides!

I use the side guides to ease the blade over one way or the other....

Looks like I'll be shimmy-ing very, very soon! Thanks for the reply and idea.

[glenn bradley]

Interesting.

Do you guys try to set up your blades such that they are perpendicular to the table top?

I've found in order to do this, I've had to use one of the upper or lower guides to push the blade one direction or the other.

Just as a response; my blades stands at 90* with no contact from the guides.

[glenn bradley]

I've been doing much adjusting of my guides of late while ramping up to make band saw boxes. I'm finding the method of "just enough gap to keep the bearings from spinning" is working best.

So what about cool blocks? Are those actually better than roller bearings? My band saw is a Grizzly 17" (G0513x2).

I set up as you do and prefer the bearings on the larger saw. Stock steel blocks work fine on my smaller saw so far. Since it is mostly for curves I may switch to bearings. I ate my cool blocks doing a lot of curves on my previous smaller saw. If you like the cool blocks, they are reasonably priced.

[Chris Padilla]

Just as a response; my blades stands at 90* with no contact from the guides.

...and you verified this with an expensive Starrett square?!

I'm still cheesed and dumbfounded I didn't think to adjust my table top...SIGH! what a moron....