Hickory questions

[Mike Schueler]

I just bought a mess of hickory. It's about 40 board feet, and it was only $50 from a local dude that has his own sawmill (large band saw) and air-dried kiln. I plan to make a high chair out of it.

So some questions. Being a beginner, I am likely to ask some basic/goofy ones. I have read hickory is very hard on tools; currently, my planer is getting a little dull, and one of my tablesaw blades (combo blade mostly for cross cuts; I have a newer, sharper one for rip cuts) too. Should I go ahead and dull these fully with the hickory before replacing them, or replace them ahead of time? I would of course rather not replace them.

Second, what do you guys recommend for a finish? Since it's a high chair (read: Don't want to poison the kid, plus I don't have a month to wait for an oil based poly etc to cure), I was planning on using shellac. But the wood itself is a little plain looking, and I was tring to decide if a stain or a dye would be more appropriate. I put a touch of some NGR dye I had left over from a previous project, and all I got was muddy looking wood.

Lastly -- I have never made a high chair, and don't even know what dimensions would work out. I saw Rockler has plans for one, plus hardware; anyone have a high chair plan they used that worked well for them? I don't mind paying a little for it if it's tested!

Thanks.

[Jim Becker]

Working any wood with dull knives will just result in more work when you have to deal with increased scalloping, etc. That's a lot of hand plane/scraper/sanding work over and above what you might do normally. There is also a greater chance of tear out with dull tooling. And with a very hard wood like hickory, things are just that much more uncomfortable when you work that way.

While finishing questions are best handled in our finishing forum, shellac is an excellent coating to use for your project. A stain or dye first is perfectly fine as shellac is also a universal barrier/sealer. That said, all finishes sold today are "safe" when fully cured and while a "full" cure does take some time, it's doubtful that you would have any issues after just a week or so unless you are feeding the chair to the child for dinner...and I suspect the finish wouldn't be your major worry at that point!

Best wishes with your project. Chair are challenging, but challenge is a good thing when it comes to learning.

[Charlie Plesums]

Don't let Hickory/Pecan scare you. Yes, it is heavy and hard, and if you are doing any part by hand, you will know it. But it works very well with power tools.

Dull tools are never good... not only do they not cut as well, but they create hazards (slow cuts lead to burns, and pushing wood on a saw or other tool increases the chance the wood would prefer to go a different direction - such as airborne.)

My experience is that Pecan (the southern version of Hickory) has a wide variation in color (see pictures on my web site). Occasionally I get a board, especially thicker boards, that are pure sapwood (white) with no character. That may be why you got such a bargain.

My preference for practically all indoor furniture is a Target Ultima Spray Lacquer since the layers burn together like shellac, and it dries faster than shellac, with less odor, non flammible, and arguably a harder surface finish. Although Target is optimized for spraying, I know a couple people who swear that it is a great brushing lacquer. The big downside is that it is not sold locally - there is no dealer network. Drop me an email if you would like a paper I wrote on finishing, and especially using USL.

[Chip Lindley]

Mike, working with hickory will let you know how dull your tools Really are! Hard to push through your saw, or burning are major signs. Dull blades are frustrating, unsafe, and downright disappointing. A sharp saw blade and jointer/planer knives make woodworking a joy! Consider 2 blades or sets of knives of each type you will use. When needed, one can be sent out for sharpening and a fresh one mounted. No down time and much more fulfillment! Good Luck with your high chair! Hickory is a great choice! 99% kid proof!

[Mike Schueler]

Thanks for the replies, even if it was the OPPOSITE of what I wanted to hear. I wanted to hear that I could finish off the last edge of the knives on my planer/crap blade rather than work on dulling new edges.

Sigh.

Will post pics when (if) I get it done. Currently finishing up a cherry coffee table, which came out a little awkward but it sits flat on the ground and is the most ambitious project I have done yet.

[mark page]

I personally like working with hickory, plus it's a native wood here. It is definately what I would call a "hard-wood". I have to admit that I don't get to work with it as much as I would like, but if finished correctly can have a very beautiful appearance. I use it for more "rustic" styled projects and have substituted it for other woods such as ash. One of the future projects I have may be doing the "man-cave" den all in hickory, if'n I ever get the time.

[Ross Ellis]

I would test the moisture content of the wood. Make sure it's in the zone.