Simple Shell Tutorial

[Mike Henderson]

Shell-42.jpg
This is what it will look like after a bit of sanding.

Shell-43.jpg
You can now sand the ends of the flutes a bit more. I roll up a piece of sandpaper and sand the lower parts of the ends of the flutes. Since I'm going to throw this shell away, I didn't spend a lot of time sanding it. For a shell you're going to use, you should sand it smooth and take it to at least p240 grit.

Shell-44.jpg
Here's the finished shell. It'll really pop with some finish on it.

Shell-45.jpg
And here's the finished shell against a piece of mahogany. Note that this is just a scrap piece of mahogany and it's not from the same board as the carving blank. But the match is not bad.

When you glue the shell to the ground, just use a small amount of glue - the one thing you don't want is glue squirting out everywhere when you clamp it down. It's better to have no glue around the outside of the shell than excess squeezing out all over. I just put a small amount of glue in the center of the shell and clamp it down. Otherwise, put a VERY thin layer on both pieces and clamp it.

As you get better, you can make the shell thinner, which will make it look even more like it's part of the ground. The risk you take (and it's not a big risk) is that the shell will break when you take it off the support board. It looks better when it's thinner, especially around the edges, but I didn't want to start you carving it too thin. This way, if you make a mistake, you can cut the blank down and keep carving.

Now, let's see yours.

Mike

[Robert Rozaieski]

Ok, I'm going to try this one but it may be a week or two as I think the #3 gouge (your #2s) I have is sized wrong. I have Henry Taylors but my #3 (your #2) is ½". I may be able to use this in place of your #2/19mm (would be a ¾" #3 HT) but I will still need a smaller ¼" #3 for the flutes. My curved gouge is a ¼" #7 which I think will work where you used a #9/6mm.

[Mike Henderson]

Ok, I'm going to try this one but it may be a week or two as I think the #3 gouge (your #2s) I have is sized wrong. I have Henry Taylors but my #3 (your #2) is ½". I may be able to use this in place of your #2/19mm (would be a ¾" #3 HT) but I will still need a smaller ¼" #3 for the flutes. My curved gouge is a ¼" #7 which I think will work where you used a #9/6mm.

Yes, you're right about the gouges. In fact, the "#2/19" gouge I used is a Henry Taylor and is a #3 in the Sheffield system. If you look at the pictures that have the gouge in them, you'll see there's a "3" stamped on the blade.

As I discussed earlier, a carver needs to choose one system (the Swiss system or the Sheffield system) and put all of his/her gouges into that system. I chose the Swiss system and therefore re-marked that Henry Taylor as a #2.

The width of that gouge is not critical - you just need a flat gouge that's medium wide. And to trim the flutes, it's easier with a narrow gouge instead of trying to use the side of a wider gouge.

I think, however, that you might need a gouge with more sweep than a #7 in the Sheffield system to cut the ends of the flutes. A #7 in the Sheffield system would equal a #5 or #6 in the Swiss system. I would look for a #9 or #10 in the Sheffield system. But you can try it - this is just a learning exercise. You can also use a narrow gouge with sweep and make several cuts instead of just one.

I know you've already done some carving, Robert, so this shell may not be that difficult for you. If there are people who would like a more challenging shell, I can put up some pictures showing how to do the second shell in my proposal. Or maybe I'll do that one after people show their work on this one.

Mike

[Robert Rozaieski]

Yeah, you may be right about the #7. I'll probably try it and see before getting another one but I may end up needing one with more sweep in the end. The 1/4" #3 or #4 I think will definately be needed though so I will definately get that one and I want a larger #3 (1") anyway for a few other projects so I'll be getting that one as well.

As for the complexity, I doubt I'll find it too easy. Yes I've done some carving but by no means am I skilled at it. I have actually had a lot of trouble carving a simple Massachusetts style fan, though I think a lot of this was rushing through it and trying to carve African mahogany, which I've found out the hard way is horrible carving material. Since I've not done any shells yet I plan on progressing through all 4 of yours to get plenty of practice.

Thanks for putting these together Mike!

Bob

[Charlie Schultz]

Well, here's mine (h. mahogany). Found this pattern in an old FWW magazine. I think I could have been more aggressive on the overall shape (i.e. taken it down more around the outside). Other observations: the mahogany was much easier to carve than the cherry, and I've got to get some seriously better lighting in my shop.

Height is 3 1/4".

[Mike Henderson]

Well, here's mine (h. mahogany). Found this pattern in an old FWW magazine. I think I could have been more aggressive on the overall shape (i.e. taken it down more around the outside). Other observations: the mahogany was much easier to carve than the cherry, and I've got to get some seriously better lighting in my shop.

Well, Charlie, that's a bit beyond "beginning carving". If you're a beginner, you're a natural. Keep at it.

It's hard to tell how big the shell is, but the only suggestion I'd make is to try to put your lines at the base of the shell a bit closer together. It's hard to do but I think you have the skill to do it. If the shell is small, the lines are already close together.

Mike

[Mike Henderson]

For the people who signed up to do the shell - want to give a status report? How's the project going? You don't have to post pictures - just let us know how you're doing.

Mike

[Zahid Naqvi]

I had a very busy weekend, so couldn't get much done. I got the basic out line and the shaping of the scallop done but have not started working on the individual "rays" (if that's what you call them).
As a side note I had a lot of trouble shaping the front and back slopes of the shell, the #2 gouge kept digging it's corners in. I have the Mat Headly DVD on carving a shell, he makes it sound and look so easy. Interstingly the easiest shaping chisel was the an older Marples (blue handled) flat chisel I had ground to a skew. If I get time tonight I will start work on the rays.

Also noticed how different Mahogany was when compared to Basswood for carving, you really have to be wary of the grain.

[Zahid Naqvi]

Just to let you know, I'm still working on this, I do not have a #3 or a #4 gouge so I was having some difficulty with shaping the outlines with the #2. I will try and get some work done tonight if time allows.

[Mike Henderson]

Just to let you know, I'm still working on this, I do not have a #3 or a #4 gouge so I was having some difficulty with shaping the outlines with the #2. I will try and get some work done tonight if time allows.

Zahid - if you're having problems shaping the flutes with a gouge, remember that's why sandpaper was invented. All you have to do is get close, then use some P150 sandpaper to smooth them out. If you go back to post #13, third picture, you'll see that my flutes were somewhat rough before I sanded them. I know I'm going to sand, so I don't even try to make everything really smooth with the gouges.

If you want to have tool marks in the finished shell, go back and put some tool marks in it after you sand it. You have to always be pragmatic when carving.

Mike

[I'll add a comment that it's much easier to learn carving if you can see someone make the actual cuts and get direct feedback on your technique. It's difficult to teach a manual skill like carving with nothing but words and still pictures - and no way to see you doing the cuts.]

[Zahid Naqvi]

[I'll add a comment that it's much easier to learn carving if you can see someone make the actual cuts and get direct feedback on your technique. It's difficult to teach a manual skill like carving with nothing but words and still pictures - and no way to see you doing the cuts.]

Agreed, I have the Mat Headley DVD which helps me a lot. I think I may have bit more than I can chew. If you know me I am a little impatient with learning, so I jumped into a slightly more elaborate shell than what you have used here. I'll post pictures soon. Since we are only using this as a learning exercise I am not too concerned about the final look as long as I get to try varuous tecniques, that's why I am trying to avoid sanding. I'll probably have something before this weekend starts.

[David Keller NC]

Charlie - A comment about getting better lighting in your shop. I always considered my shop well-lit before I took up carving. Like you, I found that fluorescent overheads just don't cut it. Typically, you're leaning over a carving, which casts a nice shadow just where you don't want it.

So - here's a very inexpensive solution that I've used for the last couple of years - go to one of the big-box stores and buy 3 or 4 "clamp on" utility lights. These are designed to take a round screw-socket bulb, come with a 10" parabolic aluminum reflector, and cost about $7 each. Then - and this is important - fit them up with "200 watt" fluorescent spiral bulbs. The point here is that the fixtures are limited to 60 watt bulbs of the incandescent type. By using the 200-watt equivalents in the fluorescent spiral variety, you're getting sufficient light, but only using the equivalent wattage of about a 20-watt incandescent bulb, which is safe to use in the cheap fixtures.

I've got four of these clampes in various positions on the shelves behind my workbench, which prevents me from casting a shadow over my work. And re-positioning is simply a matter of reaching up, squeezing the spring clamp, and letting it go in the new position. All for about $50 total, and no electricians needed. ;-)

[Charlie Schultz]

David,
Excellent, thanks. I'll be visiting the hardware store soon.

[Matt Bickford]

I have used a couple spots of hot glue to attach the will-be shell to the backerboard. I take it off by sticking it in the microwave for a couple seconds. It works really well because the glue can be pulled off with your fingers and the shell can be sanded properly with about 5 strokes. Just another option...

[Mike Henderson]

I have used a couple spots of hot glue to attach the will-be shell to the backerboard. I take it off by sticking it in the microwave for a couple seconds. It works really well because the glue can be pulled off with your fingers and the shell can be sanded properly with about 5 strokes. Just another option...

Thanks for the tip. I never thought of that - and never saw anyone else use it. Good idea.

Mike