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Thread: Jointer question

  1. #1
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    Question Jointer question

    On another forum, I was reading a post where a person made a cutting board with end grain making up the cutting surface. You know, the butcherblock idea. Apparently some gaps go left in the glue up of the blocks and there was a suggestion to cut the glue line, run the pieces across a jointer and re-glue. Pkay so here's the question. Can you run grain sideways across a jointer such that the grain is running parallel to the cutters?

    I've jointed some end grain when the knives are sharp and the cut is shallow, but never needed to do face grain sideways.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

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  2. #2
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    I have done it

    Lee -

    I have done it. The problem is splintering. Since the blades are cutting in parallel with the grain, it tends to peel vice cut. Sharp blades, slow feed rate and light cuts leave a serviceable surface.

    Ted

  3. #3
    Lee, would wetting the wood help to make the cut easier? I'm just thinking about all the problems that are solved when planing figured wood via a good misting. Just a thought. Regardless, those knives would still have to be scary sharp.

  4. #4
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    I would suggest running the board across at an angle but you would need a wide jointer for that...like an FS 41 Elite MiniMax J/P...coming soon....
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Schierer
    On another forum, I was reading a post where a person made a cutting board with end grain making up the cutting surface. You know, the butcherblock idea. Apparently some gaps go left in the glue up of the blocks and there was a suggestion to cut the glue line, run the pieces across a jointer and re-glue. Pkay so here's the question. Can you run grain sideways across a jointer such that the grain is running parallel to the cutters?
    You might be refering to a post I made. I used a jointer plane (Bailey #7) to make the face smooth. This is only needed if your making a large glueup. In my case I had strips of 6 blocks and strips of 7 blocks. These would be alternated to give a staggard glue line. The width of the butcher block was 13 blocks. You can glue up two or three rows at a time (sometimes more) but eventually you'll notice a slightly uneven surface (i.e. < 1/32" ). This needs to be dressed before attaching more strips. A hand plane is the appropriate tool for this. Running that stack over a powered jointer would be a two man operation as the stack was well over 100lbs, not something you want to hump up onto a powered jointer, especially a small 6" ones as it would likely tip over.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Padilla
    I would suggest running the board across at an angle but you would need a wide jointer for that...like an FS 41 Elite MiniMax J/P...coming soon....
    Sorry Chris, your statute of gloat limitations has expired, especially for stealth gloats disguised as help.

  7. #7
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    LMAO!! Okay, okay...got whipped on that one...I deserved it.... When it's in the gara...er...shop, I'll make a comment but until then..........
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  8. #8
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    (Acting a surrogate gloater for Chris Padilla)

    Did you get that MINIMAX 20" BAND SAW set up yet.
    Michael in San Jose
    Non confundar in aeternam

  9. #9
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    Pssst, Michael:

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=9371



    However, still waiting on wheels and I haven't been able to wire 'er up yet.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  10. #10
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    ...oh, very nice.

    Chris, know what they call a bandsaw without power? (Add appropriate punch line here!)
    Michael in San Jose
    Non confundar in aeternam

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Perata
    ...oh, very nice.

    Chris, know what they call a bandsaw without power? (Add appropriate punch line here!)

    Boat Anchor

  12. #12
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    Talking

    "Chris, know what they call a bandsaw without power? (Add appropriate punch line here!) "

    Uh......
    An Amish bandsaw?
    Gary
    Bluegrass - Finger Pickin Good!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Padilla
    Pssst, Michael:

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=9371



    However, still waiting on wheels and I haven't been able to wire 'er up yet.
    Is that a direct-drive motor, Chris? I'm a bandsaw newbie and still learning about these things as I fiddle with my new 14" Ridgid (did I mention I got it on closeout, :gloat, but that thing makes it look like a toy.

    That saw is obviously much too big for your pickup, Chris. Besides, in CA, you'll never have enough electricity to run it, even with governor Grey Out gone. Anyway, I'll be glad to bring my big, beefy Dodge 4x4 out to haul it away for you, I'll even go halves with you on my gas .

  14. #14
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    Hand plane will perform better than a power jointer, IME.

    Use a backer board either way you go.
    Tim


    on the neverending quest for wood.....

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by James Carmichael
    Is that a direct-drive motor, Chris? I'm a bandsaw newbie and still learning about these things as I fiddle with my new 14" Ridgid (did I mention I got it on closeout, :gloat, but that thing makes it look like a toy.

    That saw is obviously much too big for your pickup, Chris. Besides, in CA, you'll never have enough electricity to run it, even with governor Grey Out gone. Anyway, I'll be glad to bring my big, beefy Dodge 4x4 out to haul it away for you, I'll even go halves with you on my gas .
    James, a belt from the motor drives the lower wheel. I think the problem isn't the saw size...it might be the pick-up size but this truck is worth its weight in gold! Funny, people are always asking me if I want to sell it. I guess I should start asking how much they'll offer. It would take quite a bit for me to get rid of it.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

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