What is the best type of mallet with which to strike a chisel?

[Mark Singer]

I use a round carvers mallet for most work. I use a small brass mallet for very fine dovetails. Sometimes a steel japanese mallet for japanese chisels.... most times I use the carvers mallet on those too

[Michael Hammers]

I agree with Dave. In fact the LV mallet really is a gem for chisel work I think. Both mortise and bench work. It is very well thought out nicely balanced. And for (for me) the perfect weight. In the hardwoods I work with it has never been too light. If you look closely you can see how they designed the angle of the striking face, plus you can replace the wood if it gets too beat up.
The Glen Drake is a special little piece I think. I like it because it really afords a lot of different holding/striking positions. I can grasp the head, work from either side..great balance and control. It fits my hand nicely and comes in left or righty. Pricey? maybe...but not compared to what I see some mallets go for.
I have not been too concerned about round heads or flat heads on striking devices...for me its not that relevant. If I booger a chisel handle up it only takes about a half hour at the most to turn a new one. The Barr's are socket and easy to replace.
The carving tools are a little more delicate and I do reserve the GD for them. And like Dave stated, sometimes you have to hit in awkward positions to accomodate the grain when carving and the GD excelss at that. I would like to one day own a few of his palm style..
Wow...long post for a mallet question
Mike

[Bill White]

is one made from dogwood and waxed. Been usin' it for a long time. Just think that it's the one I'm used to and reach for it automatically.
Bill

[Michael Schwartz]

I like japanese chisel hammers although a small stanely warington patterned hammer from a flea market for few bucks can be a charm.

For carving I like a heavy brass mallet.

20 years from now when your handles are all beat up from the metal hammer just turn new ones, a nice project that will take a few weekends and make your tools better than ever.

There is a huge difference from light controlled taps from a hammer compared to a carpenter smashing a prized chisel with full force from a 30oz waffle head framing hammer in attempt to dislodge a nail.

[Vic Castello]

As I am exclusively a woodcarver working mostly on small to medium sized projects...a light mallet suits me well. I use this one by "Wood Is Good" which I can use all day without tiring:

[Don Dorn]

I use the "Wood is Good" mallet too. It's 12 oz and I've found it perfect for dovetails as it isn't too heavy, but has enough mass and momentum to get the job done nicely.

[Wayne Cannon]

That's what I thought I remembered him saying. Its good to hear confirmation. To that end, Glen Drake's chisel mallets have one flat end and one round end.

[Graham Hughes (CA)]

Generally speaking I prefer to use this massive beast of a mallet that I inherited from my grandfather, for mortising especially. I have a somewhat smaller beech mallet I also use quite happily and the Veritas cylindrical brass headed mallet I bought on a whim and that isn't really heavy enough IMHO (but maybe I'm overly used to the gigantic one?).

It is generally a bad idea to hit wood with metal. My tests indicate that plastic handles don't stand up so well either. Other than that, you are your best guide, to whether a heavier mallet or a lighter one is better. I will note that I had trouble swinging the beast mallet at first due to the weight, but I rapidly got used to it.

[Jim Koepke]

For some work, a carvers mallet fits the bill, for other things the common flat faced beach mallet works. Then there is the one that is used for light work made from an oak 2x4 from an old pallet.

If the chisel has to be hit real hard, it is likely in need of sharpening.

jim

[Graham Hughes (CA)]

If the chisel has to be hit real hard, it is likely in need of sharpening.
jim

I would normally agree with this sentiment, save for mortising which is where my colossal mallet comes into its own. Big mortising chisels are pretty well designed to be hit as hard as you can, and the mortising operation itself does not well reward timidity. You can do it, same as you can make a mortise using a bench chisel, but it takes a lot longer.

[Mitch Barker]

I've always used a regular 'ol hammer to chop out dovetails. Recently I was wondering if a mallet would have any advantages? My chisels are about 20 yr old sorby chisels with round handles (very light colored wood - boxwood maybe?), no metal hoops. I've had one handle split, but I glued it back together and it's as good as new.

So what's the advantage of a wooden or urethane mallet? Is it faster? Less vibration?

(hope it;s not bad manners to post to an old thread here...)

Mitch

[Mike Henderson]

I've always used a regular 'ol hammer to chop out dovetails. Recently I was wondering if a mallet would have any advantages? My chisels are about 20 yr old sorby chisels with round handles (very light colored wood - boxwood maybe?), no metal hoops. I've had one handle split, but I glued it back together and it's as good as new.

So what's the advantage of a wooden or urethane mallet? Is it faster? Less vibration?

(hope it;s not bad manners to post to an old thread here...)

Mitch

You generally want to save your chisel handles so you use a softer mallet than the handles. If you use a steel hammer on regular chisels, the end of the chisel handles will get mushroomed pretty good, including possible splitting. If you make your own chisel handles, you can replace the handles when they get damaged, but most people choose a softer mallet and spare the chisel handles.

Mike

[A metal hammer is used with Japanese chisels, but they have a metal hoop around the top of the chisel handle to keep the handle from splitting and the ends of the chisel handles get mushroomed even with that. But that's "traditional" with Japanese chisels so people keep doing it.]

[Johnny Kleso]

Rolled Leather Pattern Makers Hammer

Either the type with steel that holds a rolled leather disc or the all leather rolled head and wooden handle...

I am sure may other than their favorite..
This is that I learned with as a pattern maker..

[John Keeton]

I use this from Peachtree. Very similar to Vic's 12 oz. mallet, but only $20.

[george wilson]

Sculptors traditionally use the round mallets. Cabinet makers the flat head mallet. I don't think that's been mentioned.

I prefer the flat head myself. Any mallet that is not metal will be easier on your chisel handles,though the Japanese type chisels use a steel mallet. Their chisels have a stout steel ring to prevent splitting,however.

I guess it might depend upon how indestructable your handle might be. I use only wood,leather or urethane are o.k.. No metal on a handle with a plain or leather ring tipped handle.