Router Table Top size

[Greg Hampton]

What's an optimum width and length for a router table top ?

I've looked at several and they seem to vary significantly. I'm assuming that a large surface would be benificial when routing long or wide boards but I'd just like to hear thoughts / opinions.

I'm going to build and not purchase one. There are plenty of plans to choose from but I want to make the top the best size.

Looking forward to replies.

Thanks

[Gary Lange]

The one I built is 36" wide by 26" deep. It is the New Yankee Workshop Table.

[Greg Hampton]

Is that sufficient for any size piece you'll send through the table ?

[pat warner]

2' x 2' will support stix maybe to 6 or 7 feet unless they're narrow in section and light. In that case, you might get 8+ feet on the table.
Notwithstanding, flatness, a most critical variable, becomes less and less possible as your slab gets bigger and bigger.
About that RT.

[Peter Quadarella]

Personally, I would love a huge router table. Say 15'x15'. Unfortunately it would cost too much and wouldn't fit in my shop. Seriously, I don't really think it can be too big, as long as you can easily get to the router and have decent dust collection.

[glenn bradley]

I have had a 24 x 27 for years. I am swapping to a 24 x 32 just to have a little edge to clamp to hanging off each side of my cabinet. I have not felt the need for larger. As Pat W. points out, the larger the table surface area, the greater the opportunity for irregularity. You don't want to be forcing your material to lay flat on the plate at the bit position.

[Gary Lange]

Norm used one just like it for years so I feel confident that it will do a fine job for me. I can see no reason why it won't. I made to many trips this year so I am waiting a while to get my Router. That will come in the middle of Sept. and will be a Milwaukee 5625.

[Bill Huber]

I have a Jessem and it is 24x32 and the router is right in the middle. I think if I was making a table I would move the router back from the center so as to have more space on the front of the table.

With that said I have never to date need more on the front then what I have but it just seems like it could have more.

I know you are going to build your own but the Jessem is an awesome table top, made of phenolic and is flat. I did build the cabinet to put it one.

Router table.jpg

[Jim Becker]

"Optimum" is dependent on the user and the uses. Those that I built were 24" deep by 36" wide. The Bench Dog cast iron setup I use now is narrower, but I have my slider as a much larger infeed support and don't notice the difference. Many commercial tops are 32" wide.

[Jim O'Dell]

A lot may depend on what fence you use on it. If you use the Incra LS Positioner, you will need to size the table to fit the fence. I have the 25" unit and built my table 36 wide (IIRC) X 54 deep to handle the full travel of the fence. I'm sure I'll rarely if ever use that much, but if I need it, it's there. Jim.

[Steve Mellott]

My router table top is 24" deep and 48" wide. I could easily get by with one that is 36" wide. 26" deep might also be a little better.

Steve

[Marc Gélinas]

If your router table can be built as a TS extension than you don't have to worry so much about size as your TS top can also serve as a router table extension.

[Gene Michael]

I do a lot of fairly long pieces on the router table, so built it 32" deep and 36" wide with a 12" hinged extension on the end. The router plate is positioned in far enough from the rear edge that I can use the table from the back side when I don't need the depth that the front side offers. Bottom line is to think about what you'll be using the table for and gauge your ideal size based on that.

[Rick Fisher]

I have the Jessem top on a home made cabinet. Its a fantastic top, dead flat.

My first ever regret was last week. I was at Lee Valley and picked up a magnetic feather board.

It wasnt for anything in particular, but .... it wont stick to phenolic.

I have also considered putting a 1/8 hp. Baby feeder on my router table. Not too sure about drilling and mounting ot Phenolic? I bet it would be fine?

Anyone tried this?

If I had to do it all over again, I might go Cast Iron. There is something about Cast Iron...

[Greg Hampton]

It sounds like something around 36" wide and 26" deep would be the ticket.

I though I might want to rout the edge of a 4, 5 or 6 foot board, getting decorative on some case sides or something, so I liked the idea of the hinged extension / wing on one side.

Thanks for all the replies. Helps a bunch.