Which portable table saw should I get for about $500?

[Perry Lee]

You guys have me half convinced to go with a contract or hybrid saw. I was not really considering them because a) I thought I could not afford one, and b) I do not have the space for one. You have shown me that there are good models in my price range, but I am still worried about space.

My current saw is about 36"x24"x36" (WxDxH) and the portable saws can fold up to about this same size and (even better) be stored under my workbench. How small can the contractor and hybrid saws be quickly broken down to for storage?

[Mark Mack]

The contractor and hybrid saws can't really be broken down for storage. Whatever the size of the tabletop and fence rails are is pretty much the footprint. About all you can do is roll the saw out of the way if you have the space to do so and the saw is on a mobile base.

Mark

[scott spencer]

The contractor and hybrid saws can't really be broken down for storage. Whatever the size of the tabletop and fence rails are is pretty much the footprint. About all you can do is roll the saw out of the way if you have the space to do so and the saw is on a mobile base.

Mark

You can also cover the surface and let them double as a table or workbench. I suspect you'll be happier with the function of the larger saw than the convenience of a portable, but that's a decision you'll have to make.

[Glenn Howard]

While the portable saws do offer the convenience of being able to be broken down and stashed away, that eventually puts some wear and tear on the saw and will play havoc with the saw's accuracy.

If space is an issue, one thing to remember is that some hybrid saws will take up a little less space than contractor saws. Most contractor saws have the motor hanging off the back of the saw, which makes storage a little dicey. Hybrid saws typically have the motor mounted inside.

[Carl Maeda-San Diego]

I used the Ridgid tablesaw for several years and love it. My main motivation was because my wife wanted to park the car in the garage. But then I got the bandsaw, jointer, scrollsaw, etc. And then upgraded to a Delta contractor saw I found on Craigslist (for free! Well, it was broken but I fixed it)

I couldn't part with my ridgid tablesaw even after this so I gave it to my parents. Its' a great tablesaw. The fence works great and it holds the settings really well. It folds up nice and small and has enough power if you upgrade the saw blade and keep it clean. I like the miter gauge it came with better than the stock Delta ones. The only thing that annoys me is the location of the on/off switch. It takes some getting used to. The blade guard is also not as good as the Bosch. The extension wing is really nice too.
But I got it for less than $400.. I used a coupon but I don't remember what for.

[Harley Reasons]

I liked the Rigid but did not like the stand as well and did not want to be locked to Home Depot for repairs/parts.

Dar

The Lifetime Service Agreement on ALL Ridgid power tools is with One World Technology who is the license holder of the Ridgid Trademark. Home Depot does not own One World nor do they dictate their warranty polices. HD does have an exclusive BORG contract with One World to sell Ridgid Brand tools.
Repair parts come from Ridgid/One World and again have nothing to do with Home Depot.
As to the OP's comment about the reasoning behind the Lifetime Service Agreement, that is also in error. One World offers the LSA as a sales inducement and are betting that a very high percentage of purchasers will fail to read the LSA agreement until something goes wrong and find out they forgot to register the LSA. And the standing rule is "No Do Overs" on the LSA, register them within 90 days or lose it.

[Eric Larsen]

+1 for trolling craigslist.

I've seen amazing deals on cabinet saws. You just have to check 2x each day and be first to email. Especially look for the cryptic "Table saw, $500" posts. You know, the ones that don't mention the manufacturer, only that it's a 3-phase, 5hp motor. That's how I got my Powermatic. The fence was missing a part, and it took me a month and several posts here to find it, but I ended up with an inexpensive PM66.

If you buy a portable, you'll wish you had the cabinet saw until you bite the bullet and get a Sawstop, Unisaw or what-have-you. Better to figure out what saw it is you REALLY want, and then look for deals.

(But some saws *never* come up on CL -- Sawstop, for instance.)

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,

Allow me to relate my experience.

Thinking mistakenly that I could avoid the large footprint of a fixed saw, I went the portable route and used a shop made guide w/circular saw for breaking down sheet goods.

- My first purchase was a Hitachi job site saw. $199.00 from Lowes. While adequate for being an upgrade to a $99.00 no-name bench top, it lacks in a lot of areas. It's aluminum top is welcome for light weight transport, but adds no mass for stability. It also uses a non standard miter groove (less than 1/2" but larger than 3/8"). It's a decent saw and it does what it's meant to do. Go to the job site.
I started out folding it up after use to conserve space. In fairly short order, I simply left it set up. So much for that idea eh?

- Realizing I was "missing out" on many of the uses of a good table saw, I bided my time (and lived with the limitations of the Hitachi) until a Ridgid TS3660 went on sale. I also used some HD bonus rewards from their credit card, and got the TS3660 for about $260. The standard width (3/4") slots and heavy cast iron top opened up a whole world of possibilities. the downside is that it has a fairly large footprint.
My first attempt at breaking down a sheet of 3/4" plywood with it was a comedy of errors. (I'll spare all the details)- it ended up with the sheet half in/half out, resting on the in and outfeed supports, with the blade 100% pinched and the motor overload tripping the reset.

- Realizing yet again, that I was not 100% equipped to do the things I need to do with any amount of accuracy, I bit the bullet and pulled the trigger on a Festool TS 55EQ. (~ $650.00 with an extra rail, connectors & clamps & tax).

I'm thankful I didn't go either the Bosch or the Ridgid portable as I had considered. The Bosch because at that price, I would not have considered getting the TS3660 - plus it's too large to transport in the trunk of my Accord. The same hold true for the Ridgid, but with the added insult that in a few months, that $450.00 saw is probably going to be in the "Black Friday" ad for $299.00.

In retrospect & hindsight - and knowing what I do now - if I had it to do over, I'd go with the TS 55EQ and a DeWalt DW745 ( @ 45# and having all "standard" accouterments - it's a better fit than the Hitachi). Then added a contractor saw at some point. Probably the same TS 3660.
Maybe. !
(Actually, I'm happy with my present setup.)

[Loren Hedahl]

I've tried all the combinations over many years -- radial arm, contractors, cabinet saw, circular saws in different locations.

Since now my shop is half of an attached garage, dust control was number 1, small footprint number 2. I use a Festool TS55 including several guide lengths and their vacuum system along with a DeWalt 745 benchtop table saw that I hook up to a large shop vac.

I love the fence on the DeWalt. Dust collection is much better than I could ever get with a contractors saw. Table size is short, but I set up roller stands to compensate. With a top quality blade I get smooth cuts. Using it requires the use of ear plugs.

I also love the Festool for its dust control and smooth operation. I have a short guide set up as a Tee Square for cross cutting and a couple of guides hooked together for straight-lining.

Yes, I sometimes miss the "heavy iron". But not when I really think about it.

[Matt Ocel]

No question -

The Dewalt DW744. $499.00

The rack and pinion rip fence is great. It usually comes with the stand(depending on where you buy it) has good power, transports easilly.

I have used mine for 7 years without a problem.

I don't use it as much lately, cause I upgraded to a PM200.

[Jack Smith]

It's unfortunate this thread has gotten derailed. I too amd trying to decide between the Ridgid TS2410LS and the Bosch 4100-09 portable saws. I'm looking at these saws because I don't have room for a contractor's, hybrid, or cabinet saw, and because I'm looking for portabilioty. I just (reluctantly) sold my Powermatic 64A that I had incorporated a number of mods to for greater accuracy and ease of use. I'm well aware of the benefits of the various saws, and of the space required for each.

For space reasons, and the need for portability, I'm going to buy a portable saw. Consequently, I respectfully ask the question again: Has anyone had enough experience with both the Ridgid and Bosch portable saws to offer a recommendation?

Thank you for any assistance.

[Chris Matus]

I've seen the Bosch 4000-09 with the gravity rise stand at Costco recently for $379. A pretty good deal since the stand alone costs about $160.

I have this saw and my only gripe is that the miter slots are not the "T" type.

[Brent Ring]

I am onboard with everyone who has said to wait for a used cabinet saw. That is my plan. I originally purchased the 2400LS Ridgid and within a year have outgrown its accuracy. It is a great job-site saw but I want something that is more accurate. When I purchased it I thought it would be perfect. But now I want more accuracy and stability and power.

If you don't want to wait, then the Ridgid Contractors saws, with cast iron tables are a good choice. But for between $500-$700, you can usually find a good deal on a used cabinet saw, which is much better in the long run.

Power would be the only other consideration. Most good cabinet saws are going to require a 220v run, so keep that in mind!

[Jack Smith]

I finally made a decision and bought the Ridgid TS2410LS instead of the Bosch 4100-09. I've spent much time in Lowes looking at the Bosch and in Home Depot looking at the Ridgid, and I couldn't see where the Bosch was worth the extra $140. This was a difficult decision for me as I'm very much a fan of Bosch tools.

I haven't used the saw yet, nor checked it for accuracy, and that will be the test that determines whether I keep it, or return it. As someone else said, this is not a "real" table saw and one shouldn't expect to find heavy duty parts and materials. I'll check and adjust the blade to be parallel to the miter slot using a dial gauge, just as I do with a large saw.

As far as fit, finish, and tightness, the saw is not disappointing. It's obvious the finish on the top scratches easily, but that is of no consequence in my opinion. I think the stiffening ribs cast into the bottom of the table top will keep it from warping. I haven't checked it for flatness, but will shortly; however, I don't have high expectations in that regard.

Regarding the rip fence, I'm impressed with the way it glides across the table and how it locks down solidly. I find it strange how the measurement rule for ripping is attached. It is held by a screw in the approximate middle of a metal tape that wraps around both ends of the fence slide and is secured with a spring attached to the two ends. I may glue the tape down at a later time if it seems to be inadequate.

Regarding the miter gauge, it's better than the Bosch, but is still of little value--as most OEM gauges are. I'm sure it will be difficult to find a good crosscut sled for a portable table saw, so I'll probably make one.

As far as the blade goes, I'll replace it with a Forrest Woodworker II, or an In-Line Industries TS2000.

I know this isn't much of a review and doesn't contain much substance, but after I've adjusted and used the Ridgid TS2410LS, I'll post more details.

[Dave Lehnert]

Sears in my area has the Bosch saw on the stand for $499. Clearance price