HELP - Craftsman RAS

[Dwain Lambrigger]

All,

I am in the process of replacing the blade guard and table of my Craftsman RAS (model # 113-198310) and have misplaced (lost) my owner's manual. While taking off the old table, the fence was removed and trashed. Does the owner's manual note the required size of the fence? Do any of you have any idea? I know there have been posts recently on this saw, and was hoping for some help. I figured I will just go to the BORG and buy some MDF, and laminate it if I have to.

Any help is appreciated,
Dwain

[Tom Veatch]

When I had my old C'man RAS, whenever I needed a new fence, I'd just rip a piece a couple of inches wide off a 1X4 and clamp it in place. I don't think the dimensions are critical so long as it's long enough to span the table width, thick enough that the table clamps will hold it, and wide enough to support the workpiece. If it extends an inch or so above the table, I'd call it good.

[Izzy Camire]

I just replaced my fence on my Craftsman RAS. I glued 2 pieces of 1/2" MDF together. The were 1.75" tall and they are long enough to span the width of the table.

[Jeff Bratt]

My fences are simply pine 1 x 3 or 1 x 4 around 2½ to 3 inches wide. They end up projecting about 1 or 2 inches above the table top. As long as you can clamp the fence in place between the rear table pieces, and those table pieces have straight edges, you should be OK.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

All,

I am in the process of replacing the blade guard and table of my Craftsman RAS (model # 113-198310) and have misplaced (lost) my owner's manual. While taking off the old table, the fence was removed and trashed. Does the owner's manual note the required size of the fence? Do any of you have any idea? I know there have been posts recently on this saw, and was hoping for some help. I figured I will just go to the BORG and buy some MDF, and laminate it if I have to.

Any help is appreciated,
Dwain

I built my own and set it where I wanted it....made it out of Mahogany and it's 1.5" tall so I can cut a 2x on the saw when I need to. My crosscut is about 16" before lifting....max is about 20".

[Bill Dunn jr]

Try this site. You may be able to get a new table and blade gaurd. http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/

[Charlie Velasquez]

Does the owner's manual note the required size of the fence?

Dwain

You should probably make several fences at varying heights. Besides serving as a reference for your cuts the fence also acts a zero clearance for the end of your cut when the blade exits the work. So I like to keep a few around for different thicknesses of stock.

I figured I will just go to the BORG and buy some MDF, and laminate it if I have to.

Dwain

I have a melamine fence I use when I rip, it makes the wood slide easier. I never use this fence for cross-cutting so its face is smooth and continuous. As I am sure someone will say - you should be careful and know what you are doing when using a RAS, and especially so if you use it to rip.

I would not laminate a cross-cutting fence... too slippery; and while I sometimes clamp the wood for a cross-cut or miter cut, more often than not a stop block and a firm grip on the stock is all I do. A slippery fence in this case just adds another level of possible error.

Remember, the fence on a RAS is a disposable item. Make them to best serve the job at hand.