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Thread: What happens if....

  1. #1

    What happens if....

    What would happen if I was etching my ipod for example and the power goes off (assuming no UPS)? Could I just turn everything back on, not move the iPod and just start the etch again? would that effect the look of it?

    I know that maybe for woods it makes a difference, but for aluminiums (like on macbooks and ipods) would it make a difference?

    Im asking this because when I was getting some things etched at the Versalaser/ULS place and half way through he changed the power, then just started the project again on the newer power to make it all even (hope you understand that). The bit that was already etched at the higher power didnt change, and he said that it wouldnt change.

    So why should I be worried if the power goes out while im going an iPod for example. Cant the same thing be applied, just with a greater gap in between the 2 runs?
    I have an Epilog Mini 24 (40W) fueled by a Macbook Pro.

  2. #2
    It can be started again. What I have done is open the lid and restart then close the lid when I think it is about the right place.
    Vytek 4' x 8', 35 watt. Epilog Legend 100 watt, Graphtec plotter. Corel x-4, Autocad 2008, Flexi sign, Adobe Illustrator, Photo Impact X-3 and half a dozen more.

  3. #3
    The power going out (as in a power failure ) is different than stopping the run midway through, making a power change, and continuing. The machine will lose it's X and Y axis coordinates and reset itself upon restart. You would have to create a new file from the point which the engraving stopped or possibly run again with the door open (which stops the laser from firing) and shut the door at the point the engraving stopped the first time around. It would be next to impossible to do this without a noticeable gap or line. Metal may be more forgiving than wood if this happened.
    I design, engineer and program all sorts of things.

    Oh, and I use Adobe Illustrator with an Epilog Mini.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Sammamish, WA
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    7,630
    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Griffith View Post
    The power going out (as in a power failure ) is different than stopping the run midway through, making a power change, and continuing. The machine will lose it's X and Y axis coordinates and reset itself upon restart. You would have to create a new file from the point which the engraving stopped or possibly run again with the door open (which stops the laser from firing) and shut the door at the point the engraving stopped the first time around. It would be next to impossible to do this without a noticeable gap or line. Metal may be more forgiving than wood if this happened.
    If you have a pointer you can turn on, use that to tell you when to close the lid and the overlap will be minimal. You could also create a shape in white with white outlines to cover up the part already etched in the file, then resent selecting it as well as the original file, and that white area will be skipped.



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

  5. #5
    On the ULS systems, when you hit pause, it goes home, and when you restart it comes back and resumes right where it left off, so it wouldn't be burning any area twice. I agree with Doug, if you engrave 1/2 and then start from the beginning, you'll see some line, more visible in some materials than others.

    You could always send the job over again with bottom up engraving, when simply watch it and stop it when it hits the previously engraved area, or when it hits that area, start adjusting the power down to nothing, slowly, so it "ramps" the exit out of the previously burned area.

    So short answer is, if it were an ipod, it's possible it would ruin it, yet. Possible, depending on what you're engraving, the plastic, the metal, the graphic, etc.

    Just my opinion.
    Lasers : Trotec Speedy 300 75W, Trotec Speedy 300 80W, Galvo Fiber Laser 20W
    Printers : Mimaki UJF-6042 UV Flatbed Printer , HP Designjet L26500 61" Wide Format Latex Printer, Summa S140-T 48" Vinyl Plotter
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    Real name Steve but that name was taken on the forum. Used Middle name. Call me Steve or Scott, doesn't matter.

  6. #6
    If you engrave from top to bottom and the power goes out, just restart the job engraving from bottom to top. Just keep an eye on where to stop the job again.
    ULS M-360 35W, Corel X3

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Cape Town, South Africa
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    3,922
    At the end of it all , after engraving 1000's of items , I can say we have never had a succesful high quality solution to a 1/2 done job. There is always some visible evidence and depending on item , the "fiddle costs" of getting it right and trying to correct are not worth it. Like a $5 item that takes 20 mins to salvage ...
    Be prepared to replace the item in most cases , it's part of the running costs
    Thats why engraving expensive items should be expensive , you might mess up.
    In any lasering job , we have a policy , we must be able to re-do the job and not lose money.
    Obviously the best action is to try to salvage the item with the advice given above.
    Rodney Gold, Toker Bros trophies, Cape Town , South Africa :
    Roland 2300 rotary . 3 x ISEL's ..1m x 500mm CnC .
    Tekcel 1200x2400 router , 900 x 600 60w Shenui laser , 1200 x 800 80w Reci tube Shenhui Laser
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    2x Gravo manual engravers , Roland 540 large format printer/cutter. CLTT setup
    1600mm hot and cold laminator , 3x Dopag resin dispensers , sandblasting setup, acid etcher

  8. #8
    Rodney's got it right.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Slippery Rock, PA
    Posts
    556

    power outage

    I was running my laser a few days ago and the power went out but the laser
    kept running. When I bought my laser I decided that a good UPS should be installed to protect my investment. The power was out about 10 seconds but
    their was no down time or problems.
    I'm not saying I would finish the job if it was an extended outage but it might get you thru it with no loss.
    ken
    Epilog Laser, CNC equipment, Corel X3 & 4, Aspire

  10. #10
    I seem to recall a number of people speaking of this exact situation when Zac brought his concept of a business up on the forum. There were a number of people who said you better prepare for when, not if, but when you make a mistake on someone's $300 Ipod.
    Lasers : Trotec Speedy 300 75W, Trotec Speedy 300 80W, Galvo Fiber Laser 20W
    Printers : Mimaki UJF-6042 UV Flatbed Printer , HP Designjet L26500 61" Wide Format Latex Printer, Summa S140-T 48" Vinyl Plotter
    Router : ShopBot 48" x 96" CNC Router Rotary Engravers : (2) Xenetech XOT 16 x 25 Rotary Engravers

    Real name Steve but that name was taken on the forum. Used Middle name. Call me Steve or Scott, doesn't matter.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Zac Altman View Post
    What would happen if I was etching my ipod for example and the power goes off ?

    That engraving is ruined, but there is a possible recovery solution... That is replacement skins. Many if not all the IPOD type devices have after market skins available in case peopel scratch theirs up, or want custom colors, so you might be able to get a replacement skin to engrave, depending on the device.

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