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Thread: Glazing Wooden Windows. Best glazing compound??

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Fort Smith, Arkansas

    Glazing Wooden Windows. Best glazing compound??

    Have a new "old house". Lots of original windows complete with wavy glass. Mostly double hung but a few old casements as well. I've removed two small casements, stripped them (ugh) did minor repair, primed with oil base and have spent a couple of hours learning to glaze. I've been using Dap 33 or at least the Ace Hardware equivalent. Recently saw a 'youtube' video with a guy selling something called "Glaze Ease 601" and amazingly enough another person recommending modeling clay. He says he's been using modeling clay for over 12 years with good results. The same person also uses hot melt glue instead of glazing points to hold the glass in. Can't find the one recommending modeling clay again. Here is the 'Glaze Ease' video.
    Anyone have recommendations for the best glazing compound to use? Is the Glaze Ease significantly better or easier to apply neatly?

  2. #2
    Use whatever is in the can.

    Heat it a tad in hot water. And use mineral spirits on the knife when you spread it out.
    Don't forget to use "points." That's really what holds the glass in the putty is just a sealant.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Fayetteville Pennsylvania
    When it comes to glazing old windows, I always recommend 3/4" thick, pressure treated plywood and 3" deck screws.


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Near saw dust
    Dap user here (the few that we have done).

    Only thing I ever did that was different in the glazing dept was to "glaze" some steel sashes with black adhesive caulking (Geocell brand- great stuff). It was winter, the house had a fire, etc..

    6 years and still holding.
    Strive for perfection...Settle for completion

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Bucks County, Pennsylvania
    I believe originally it was mostly clay and linseed oil -- I remember as a kid I had a relative that was a painter and he used to make his own. Although I think he bought a powder and added the linseed oil to it.

    He would always paint some linseed oil on the old sash before he glazed it so the old wood would not dry out the glazing. I also remember him not priming the area where the caulk was going so the glazing was against the bare wood.
    He was really fast.

    It is harder than it looks -- and some of the modern glazing compounds are quite dry.

    Not a job I like nor good at!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Fort Smith, Arkansas
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Godley View Post
    I believe originally it was mostly clay and linseed oil
    Still is. At least the Dap stuff is a white mineral of some kind in linseed oil and it is pretty dry stuff. Your right about it not being easy. After glazing an 8 lite, scraping it off, re-glazing and scraping off again I got good enough on the third try to leave it on. On these windows the muntins are very thin without a lot of wood supporting the glass so the putty knife must be a held at a very steep angle to avoid seeing the putty from the inside. Glazing points are another issue as the only ones I can find are much too big and are visible after glazing. I'll have to look around and see if I can mind some really small ones.

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