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Thread: Grizzly g1021 has landed! Rust ?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Buffalo, NY
    Posts
    52

    Grizzly g1021 has landed! Rust ?

    A grizzly g1021 planer has landed on the garage floor. This thing was a beast to move. Paid $250 for it. It does have some (well, a nice coat of) rust on the the table that needs to be taken care of, leaked some oil during the move , but other than that I just have to reinstall the dust hood (previous owner didn't have a dc) and the rollers and should be good to go. I got the spare blades that have been unused, setting jig, and manual too.

    for those that need proof:

    On to the rust. Searching the creek showed a rust removal job using conditioning belts on a belt sander. Has anybody else done this? Looked like a good job, but not as bad of a starting point. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...ditioning+belt Or is 400 grit/mineral spirits/elbow grease the way to go? I would need a pretty big tub for the electrolysis method

    Thanks,
    Mike

  2. #2
    Mike,

    I've had a lot of success using 400 or 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper in a palm sander with plenty of WD40. It takes a lot less elbow grease and will remove the surface rust very nicely.

  3. #3
    I agree with Brian on the rust removal, although mineral oil may work, too, and not evaporate as quickly. On the oil, be sure and top off the gear/chain box before operating. By the way, I think you got a great deal on the planer, even with the rusted bed!!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eddington, ME
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    540
    I use a air die grinder with scotch brite surface conditioning discs. They work really good.

    For heavier rust. I might start out with 220 in a 1/2 sheet sander. And get the bulk out. A vibrating sander is not going to take alot of material off on a table like that. Once the bulk of it is gone. Then I would switch to the finer grits to clean up the tooling marks and last bit of corrosion.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Buffalo, NY
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    Thanks for the tips guys. I think i'll start with some wd40 and 400 grit as I have those on hand and see how it goes. Can't wait to get some wood running through it!

    Thanks,
    Mike

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Rudolph, WI
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    240
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike DeHart View Post
    Thanks for the tips guys. I think i'll start with some wd40 and 400 grit as I have those on hand and see how it goes. Can't wait to get some wood running through it!

    Thanks,
    Mike
    Well Mike if the WD40 and 400 wet/dry didn't work for you, try my method of using Lemon flavored Simple Green and a 320 grit sanding disk if you have a variable speed orbital sander.
    When I got my used saw home I attempted to get the rust off with the WD40 and green pad method and soon discovered that I wasn't going to live long enough to accomplish the task this way. Then I remembered an old auto body trick of using soap and wet/dry sandpaper and the rust just rolled right off.
    But, if you do use Simple Green (SG) you MUST carefully remove all the residue left because SG used to be a corrosive and it could continue to work at the cast iron if not removed. I just throughly clean the metal with some thinner then wax the surface.
    Somewhere in the forums I have a posting showing before and after pictures with the SG method.
    It's a biiiig mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize that you are in a hurry.
    _____________
    Jim

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Islesboro, Maine
    Posts
    1,268
    If it's just surface rust scrap it off with a few razor blades. then treat the table

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Bucks County, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    940
    I had good luck with WD40 also.

    I put a heavy coat on and let it sit over night - then I took one of those thin scotch brite pads and worked around with that.

    Some gloves and paper towels are a nice addition to the mix.

    I may try the soap and wet dry paper -- I never think of sandpaper when I am working with metal

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Scottsdale, AZ
    Posts
    73
    I have never tried to remove rust on woodworking tools, but I have removed lots of rust on old car parts. The best method I have used is to scrub or dip with phosphoric acid.

    It is sold as navel jelly, screen door cleaner, etc. I would wear rubber gloves and sand with the navel jelly as the lubricant. It converts the rust to black iron phosphate. You can then scrub it off with water.

    Jerry

  10. #10
    I would try a coarse sandblock first and if that works then finish off with the medium and fine grit sandblock's. Otherwise Roloc surface conditioning disks in an angle grinder. A bit of oil as a lube and that rust will be gone in no time. Make sure to wear coveralls or an apron - you will get messy.

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