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Thread: The Great Morris Chair project

  1. #391
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Greenville, SC
    Posts
    750
    Can you guys tell me how thick the cushions that your upholsterer (or you) used on the chair (both back and seat)?

    The FWW order call for 5" thick foam plus a 1" thick cotton batting for the seat cushion, but doesn't mention anything for the back.

  2. #392
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Stony Plain, Alberta
    Posts
    2,702
    Ben

    Our plans call for 6" high density foam for the seat.
    And 5" high density foam for the back.
    Over the foam it calls for 3/8" batting.
    And lastly, our plan calls for a cushion-eze over the battting.
    This keeps the batting from sticking to the vinyl, leather, or fabric.

    That being said Walt, Nathan, and I know this only in theory.....
    Someday those chairs will get to the upholstering guy.
    At least thats what we keep telling each other.

    You guys seem to be making some good progress.
    How about a few more pics?

    .

  3. #393

    It's Getting There.

    Well I have all the wood cut and deminsioned and all the mortises cut. Will have the tennons done today. Guess I'm kind of fortunate in a way. My wife is away for a couple of weeks and my dayghter is away at school. So I get to play in the shop all day. This is my first real piece of furniture and really enjoying this build. The next thing I have to figure out is to how to explain the new tools and gizmos I purchased while she was away. I think my next go will be the Morris bed. maybe another chair. decisions decisions. Whatever, sure is fun though.and thanks to all for the help.you've given me. Pretty cool forum.
    Last edited by Brian William; 11-09-2009 at 12:17 PM.

  4. #394
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Windsor, ON
    Posts
    657
    Blog Entries
    3

    Wink share a peek with the Creek

    Quote Originally Posted by gary Zimmel View Post
    making some good progress.
    How about a few more pics?
    Hi Brian,
    Yes, I have to agree with Gary...
    you seem to be making terrific progress...
    but how about a few photos for the Creek?

    Please take us along on your ride.
    Inquiring minds want to know.
    We're waiting for you to play show-n-tell with us...
    we don't ask for much...
    just hook us up with a Peek!
    hehe

    keep up the good work,
    on we roll,
    Walt
    Last edited by Walt Caza; 11-09-2009 at 6:52 PM.
    There are no shortcuts to anywhere worth going! WCC

    Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind - Dr. Seuss

    Crohn's takes guts. WCC

  5. photos

    Hi Walt I would like to post some photos,only problem is my wife is away and guess where the camera is. But I will post some. I got the back slats and the form for the arms done to day. I think it should be done by the end of the month. Then off to upholstery. Hopefully.

  6. #396
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Greenville, SC
    Posts
    750
    Man, my forearms hurt and I have a bad blister to prove it too! One arm down, one more to go.

    In hindsight, I think I should have looked more into steam bending wood, seems that would have been much easier! Ohh well, it is all a learning experience...


  7. #397

    A little Confused.

    Maybe one of you experts and straighten me out on something. On the Morris chair the palns call for the upper side rail. (the curved one that fits to the curved arm) The plans call for 2" in width at the back . The FWW article calls for 1 3/8 and 1 1/2.The FWW video doesn't give a diminsion for this ,but from what I can see it is definately wider that 1 1/2" in width. Which one is the way to go. Or does it really matter as long as the legs are correct in height deminsion. Thank you. After reading this you fellas are probably just as confused as I am.

  8. #398
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Greenville, SC
    Posts
    750
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian William View Post
    Maybe one of you experts and straighten me out on something. On the Morris chair the palns call for the upper side rail. (the curved one that fits to the curved arm) The plans call for 2" in width at the back . The FWW article calls for 1 3/8 and 1 1/2.The FWW video doesn't give a diminsion for this ,but from what I can see it is definately wider that 1 1/2" in width. Which one is the way to go. Or does it really matter as long as the legs are correct in height deminsion. Thank you. After reading this you fellas are probably just as confused as I am.
    Nope, I pick up on what you are saying. I cut mine to 4" in width, the plans call for the front of the arm to be 22 7/8" up the leg and somewhere around 20 9/16" in the back (it doesn't give this dimension, this is to the corbel, but some quick math or a swag can get you the exact dimension).

    I am just going to take my finished arms to the side sub-assemblies set them at the corresponding dimensions and trace my outline. I wouldn't worry too much about what the article calls for or the way that he shows in the video; I don't see why he made a template for the sides when he could have just used the actual arm and it would have been exact...

    That is the last question I answer until I see some pictures of your chair!! (Just kidding....)

  9. Thanks Ben for the info. I'll stick to the plans. Yeah I don't know why he made a template.just use the arms as you say. Thanks again,I'll just carry on. Just wanted to be sure.Cheers
    Brian.

  10. #400
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Windsor, ON
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    Arrow a better look at my chair... (pic)

    Good Day to the Creek,
    Slow day for me, nursing a dodgey back.
    I am enjoying postings by Ben and Brian as they build their M chairs.
    Looking good so far Ben.
    Eager for a peek at your progress Brian.
    No pressure... everyone knows the Creek is hungry for pics!

    nyice segue... which leads me to...

    I got a chance to take a few photos of my Morris chair before the snow flies.
    I was fortunate to have helpers...as it was too awkward and heavy to move without harm.
    This was taken in the shade, because the sun was making looong shadows.
    It's a shame, because the grain looks sooo much better in the sunshine... it really comes alive!

    I used a 4x8' sheet of melamine as backdrop, against the garage door.
    And another full sheet of (warped 1/2") plywood stood in for a floor, rather than asphalt.


    My early pics of my nearly finished chair were quite poor.
    It started to rain as I took the photos, and the light was lousy.

    Your comments and criticism are welcome, as always.
    Hope this looks a little better,
    and, I hope you get some shop time,
    be well,
    Walt

    ps I also look forward to Brad Wood getting his chair build started after he clears his plate...
    hehe
    Last edited by Walt Caza; 11-20-2009 at 3:23 PM. Reason: tweak
    There are no shortcuts to anywhere worth going! WCC

    Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind - Dr. Seuss

    Crohn's takes guts. WCC

  11. #401
    Very, very nice Walt!! Glad to see you are up and moving some. You guys deserve some kind of medal or award for doing this project - major undertaking!

  12. #402
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Greenville, SC
    Posts
    750
    Wow Walt!!! That is a great looking chair! What color do you plan on using for the ulpholstery?

    Are the arms of your chair a constant adius or do they slope just at the end? The arms on my chair are a constant radius, perhaps it is just the angle that makes your appear different.

    (On second look, the back of your guys' chair is completely different than mine, I will have to post a picture of it)

  13. #403
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Windsor, ON
    Posts
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    Blog Entries
    3

    Arrow chair photos... (umm.... pics!)

    Hi All,
    Now that I figured out how to post a decent photo...
    here are a few more...

    This is a classic A&C bracket called a corbel. Lens distorts. Sun makes shadows. uggh
    Keen eyes may spot my 4ply arm lams. 5/16" x 4 = full 1.25" thick arms with discrete joints.



    These are the real poke-through tenons that I worked so hard to fine tune with handtools.
    Take a lick off tenon. Test fit. No go. Take another lick off. Rinse. Lather. Repeat. whew
    Keen eyes can spot that the grain on the exposed tenon matches the rail. No caps here...


    Here is a front view of my finished chair.
    Every pair of legfaces are grain matched, taken side by side from rough boards.
    Actually, the grain is matched all the way around, including the backslats. Only I would care...


    Sorry to those viewing these large pics with small displays.
    I can view the entire images on my big desktop monitor.
    I guess you'll just have to scroll if you want a peek?

    These pics are best I could do with a $200 digital camera in the shade.

    thanks for looking,
    Walt
    Last edited by Walt Caza; 11-20-2009 at 6:07 PM. Reason: ...just thinking our loud
    There are no shortcuts to anywhere worth going! WCC

    Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind - Dr. Seuss

    Crohn's takes guts. WCC

  14. #404
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Baker City OR
    Posts
    233
    Besides the great craftsmanship - you sure got a hold of some nice lumber. Wow!

    And you should be proud of those through tenons - there's a lot of time involved in those for sure.

    Thanks for sharing.
    Stan

  15. #405
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Stony Plain, Alberta
    Posts
    2,702
    Beautiful pics of superb workmanship Walt...

    Thanks for putting the larger pics online.
    Your attention to detail has been second to none....

    I think maybe you should do the rounds and snap some shots of Nathans and mine...

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