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Thread: Tuning Hand Tools

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    New Mexico
    Posts
    200

    Tuning Hand Tools

    Ok, recently I decided I need to check some of my hand tools for trueness and if not then I need to tune them. However, I have run into some difficulties.

    First, I have a craftsman combination square (given to me years ago before I got into WW). Needless to say, it is out of tune. The lengthwise sides of the rule are flat, BUT, the rule itself is not flat. If I lay it down on a bench, it has a very slight wobble. Is there any way of tuning this or would it be better to purchase a REAL combination square?

    Second, if I was to purchase a better combination square, any brands that I should consider?

    Third, I have a "new" stanley jack plane. And just like I found out after I purchased it, they will probably need a LOT more work than an older pre-WWII one. Needless to say, near the mouth, the sole is slightly convex. And the iron is slightly concave when checking the blade across the cutting edge. Any thoughts on how to fix these?

    I used long strips (3 feet) of sandpaper (100-220 grit) to flatten the sole. However, to get it to where it is now, took FOREVER! And now I have to go back and do it again! Is there a faster way to flatten the sole?

    Sorry for the endless questions. Just in case I didn't ask enough I have one more. Any brands/thoughts on getting a quality straight edge-level (from 3 feet to 6 feet)?

  2. #2

    square and straight edge

    [

    Starrett- Ebay is usually the cheapest place, but check around.
    Eddie in So. West Virginia BP

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Philadelphia, Pa
    Posts
    2,266
    I second the Starrett recommendation. Go for the hardened one. Or, buy new from Lee Valley. I think the basic comb. sq, without the protractor head or centering head, is about $62, and that way you will get the satin finish rule.
    As to the sole problem, try using drywall grid sanding medium, not sure of precise name, from a big box. About 4 x 9 or so. End to end. Put it on top of 100 grit wet dry, stuck down (3M, No. 77). The swarf falls into the grid, which helps with flatness, and without the swarf buildup, it cuts much, much faster.
    Alan

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Wilmington, Delaware
    Posts
    36
    I agree with Alan - 120 grit drywall screen is the way to go - cheap and effective. I also agree that you should try eBay for a better combination square, besides Starrett you may also want to search for Brown and Sharpe, they made comparable squares and are usually cheaper than Starrett since they lack the name recognition.

  5. #5
    “Perhaps then, you will say, ‘But where can one have a boat like that built today?’ And I will tell you that there are still some honest men who can sharpen a saw, plane, or adze...men (who) live and work in out of the way places, but that is lucky, for they can acquire materials for one third of city prices. Best, some of these gentlemen’s boatshops are in places where nothing but the occasional honk of a wild goose will distract them from their work.” -- L Francis Herreshoff

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