Hey wooden plane makers....

[Terry Bigelow]

I bought David Finck's book on making Krenov style woodies a while back. I have yet to build one but I have a question. His set up is a standard angle (I guess you call it) at 45 degree on the bed and 62 degrees on the front block(opposite the blade). I would like to alter it to be a high angle(55 degrees maybe) but not sure what the front block angle needs to be. He is pretty particular about the 62 degrees (for the 45 degree bed) to keep from clogging so I'm sure the same would apply to 55. Would you just subtract 10 degrees (to 52)for the front block or am I missing something?

[Zahid Naqvi]

Terry, I used the same book for my first plane. Take it from someone who has been on that road, you will make several planes and will experiment with angles on both the front and back ramp/block. I thought the front ramp angle of 62 degree was too steep so I tried out several options (55/50 even 45) for me the 50/55 degree range is the best, it does not clog the mouth with shavings and leaves enough room for me to stick my finger in if some curlies get stuck.

Let me make a suggestion. When you start making your fist plane do not cut material for one plane, cut enough material for two. Make two blocks for the bed (where your iron rests) at 45 degree and two blocks for the front (one at 62 one at 52). This way you end up with two planes each with a different angle for the front block. You should also experiment with bedding angles (45/50/55), you will be ammazed how much difference bedding angle can make in terms of performance.

You can use the cheapest hardwood available in your area (Oak, Ash, Walnut etc), don't go with the expensive stuff until you have the process tuned down. My keeper was the fifth plane I made. Once you start making wooden planes you will not be able to stop.

[Johnny Kleso]

What he doesnt say if I remember right is to leave a 1/8" high square edge on the front of the mouth as you sand the sole the mouth gets bigger and bigger if you dont..

Some makers even add a few degrees back angle then cut a 62º or what ever to help keep a small mouth..

[Wiley Horne]

Terry,

Just checked a couple of planes made by an excellent wooden plane maker residing in Zahid's state of Arkansas. Checked a 55 degree plane, which is a standard bedding angle for smoothers made by Clark & Williams. This particular example had the forward face of the escapement symmetrical with the bedding, at 55 (56 as measured). I then checked a couple of 50-degree bedded long planes, both of which had the forward face at 60 degrees.

Wiley

EDIT: P.S.--Just checked a second 55-degree smoother, same maker, and the forward face of the escapement is 65 degrees. So maybe it just all depends.....

[Tristan Raymond]

What he doesnt say if I remember right is to leave a 1/8" high square edge on the front of the mouth as you sand the sole the mouth gets bigger and bigger if you dont..

No, he doesn't. But, he has you set the initial mouth opening by sliding the blade down to contact the front 1/8" above the sole. Later when you open the mouth you file the front flat, effectively giving you an 1/8" of wear before the mouth starts to get bigger. At least that's what I expect to happen - I'm just about up to the point of setting the mouth opening on my first plane. I just have to go back and give myself a little more space on the front end as I'm making a 50 degree smoother and had cut the front side to 62 degrees. I sure hope this works out, I didn't use real expensive wood, but if I thought that it wasn't going to turn out well I'd have used something cheap like oak. (I'm using Jarrah)

btw, thanks for the very timely question, hadn't even crossed my mind that I should compensate for a higher bed angle. DOH!

[Steve knight]

all the advice is good. the angle is not critical but the more open space the better it will jam and eject shavings better. but you lose top real estate so think of that. the mouth with a flat 90 is good though I would go with 1/4" over 1/8" and when you open the mouth you want to back file it. so the angle is going the same way as the bed. though a lot steeper around 70 degrees. that way the mouth will not really open up much at all

[Terry Bigelow]

Thanks for the tips guys. Guess there's no real difinitive answer, which is kind of what I assumed anyway. Zahid, I like your idea of making a couple at a time with minor differences out of inexpensive wood. As much as I'd like to think I'll nail it on the first go round that's surely not the case. Oh, and I've heard about the woodie building bug. If it's anything like the slope I'm already on with the iron planes I'm in deep trouble.

[Steve knight]

there are things with planes that are almost set in stone to make a decent plane. there are not much if anything new your going to try. things work the way they do and you can't really improve them. I know I have tried quite a few times.(G) I came up with some new things but they were not really much in the way of new.

[Tristan Raymond]

Yes, thanks for all the tips. Armed with all these tips I still have hope that this first one will be a good user. But, I'll probably make at least a few with different bed angles and undoubtedly future planes will be more refined. Do most of you have separate blade assemblies for each plane? It seems like you would, but at $65 for the Finck 2" blade/chip breaker I was going to go cheap and start with just the one and trade it between bodies.

[Michael Faurot]

Do most of you have separate blade assemblies for each plane? It seems like you would, but at $65 for the Finck 2" blade/chip breaker I was going to go cheap and start with just the one and trade it between bodies.

Assemblies, no. At the moment, just one Hock chip breaker/blade. At some point I'll buy more, but that'll have to wait until the funds are in line. For my other three wooden planes, they have just a blade. While having just a blade isn't as good as a chip breaker/blade combination--a blade alone can work pretty well.

But, I'll probably make at least a few with different bed angles and undoubtedly future planes will be more refined.

As it sounds like you're wanting to experiment, if you go with just a blade, the cost of making a wooden plane can be extremely inexpensive. I've picked up blades at Home Depot, that are intended to be replacements for some of the Buck Brothers planes they sell, and used them to make wooden planes. One blade in particular, designed for a block plane, was only $3. The cost of the blade, combined with hardwood scraps you've all ready got laying around, some glue and you can try all sorts of things to see what you like.

Here's an example of a recent plane I made with a Home Depot plane blade and a variety of scraps:
IMG_1123.jpg
The body, working from the outside, in is cherry, beech and walnut. The wedge and pin are mesquite. The sole (not really visible) is bubinga.

[Terry Bigelow]

It seems like you would, but at $65 for the Finck 2" blade/chip breaker I was going to go cheap and start with just the one and trade it between bodies.

$65.00?? Where did you get yours? I got mine from Lee Valley for almost $20 less! They are Hock too. Check it out:http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...182,43698&ap=1

[Tristan Raymond]

I bought the one made by David Finck, the author of the book. I know there are cheaper ones, but wanted to try his. They are A2 cryogenically treated - for what it's worth.

Nice looking plane, Michael. I like the curves and your choice of woods - and it looks like it is comfortable to use.

[Joel Goodman]

Not to hijack the thread but:

I'm thinking of making a Krenov style plane. I have a chunk of Honduran Mahogany that I was thinking of for the body and I have some European Beech that I though I could resaw a slice of for the sole. Any thoughts as to the suitability of these woods would be appreciated.

[Chris Padilla]

Once you start making wooden planes you will not be able to stop.

So do you make anything beside planes these days? Do you actually use the planes you make? Do you use the planes you make to, uh, make more planes??

[Terry Bigelow]

I bought the one made by David Finck, the author of the book. I know there are cheaper ones, but wanted to try his. They are A2 cryogenically treated - for what it's worth.

Ah ha, I see. I was unawares of such an iron. Where did you get that from if my ask? I look foward to seeing your plane too.