Spindle Gouge Recommendations?

[Kent Cori]

I want to buy a 1/2" spindle gouge and would like to pick the brains of you folks who have much more experience than I. I've seen similar gouges by Sorby, Crown, Taylor and Hamlet in HSS. They all cost about the same amount so I was wondering what your thougths were on these four manufacturers.

Also, is HSS good enough or should I splurge for more pricey ASP or powdered metal alloys?

Thanks for your insights.

[Richard Allen]

Hi Kent

What are you going to use the 1/2" spindle gouge for? That almost sounds funny. Except that a spindle gouge is often the tool of choice for doing boxes. I find one of the best spindle gouges for doing boxes is the Ray Key model. That spindle gouge isn't much good for turning spindles. Then there is the Stockdale gouge which is a splendid gouge that has a slightly deeper flute.

And if that isn't enough there are forged spindle gouges which work differently than the spindle gouge made from round bar stock.

Please don't forget Serious Lathe as a source for gouges. Bernie sells a lot of steel for a great price.

My choices would be

Ray Key for boxes
Stockdale for detail work
Forged spindle gouge for coves in spindles
Serious Lathe for a basic bar stock spindle gouge

Thanks

Richard

[Joe Kolmer]

Dear Richard:

You mentioned a Stockdale Gouge in your message. What is a Stockdale gouge and how is it ground? I can't seem to find anybody who knows what it is, and I've asked some pretty knowledgable people. Thanks and have fun.

J.R. Kolmer

[George Tokarev]

A gouge is a gouge is a gouge. For peeling you want a longer edge, and in my experience, a broader radius curve. For poking you want a shorter radius curve and a shorter radius nose. I'd recommend these http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...30,43164,43175 as excellent in the HSS types, though the same pattern, variously called "forged" or "continental" or "European" design are available in alloy or carbon steel from other sources. Carbon takes an edge faster, even with good stones, but will heat if you don't mind the pressure applied when grinding and cutting, potentially softening the edge to the point where you need to grind back to remove it. In my opinion, you can do all the hogging and pressing with alloy, never having to risk your good carbon edges. Use them for the final passes.

Also why you don't need large sections where the gouge meets the handle in your gouge selection. If you're going to hog, throw shavings or chunks, or force the gouge with your bulk and muscle levering it around, get cylindrical stuff for the larger section. If you're going to cut the wood rather than bully it, go for the kind that allows you a consistent bevel angle all across the section, like the uniform thickness patterns. They have "tangs," so don't use them for opening paint cans or pry bars, rather use them as turning tools, supported close in and resting on their bevels as you advance them, rolling shavings off. If you're bothered by the illusion of weakness, the newer pattern cylindricals grind down the top of the flute more than formerly, so you can get an interior profile that more closely matches the exterior.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Kent I got the Pinnacle 1/2" and 3/8" from Woodcraft over a year ago. I like them because of the longer handles. The edge holds fine and if these go I will buy another.

[Glenn Hodges]

Kent look at the P&N Spindle Gouges at
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,330&p=49138

I use these spindle gouges when the need arrises.