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Thread: Boats?

  1. #61
    Actually, I had been looking at the FS17 as well. Looks like no one has built one or at least, no one has submitted pics of their own on their site. It looks like it would use the same amt of wood as the OB15, but i'd get a bigger boat http://bateau.com/studyplans/FS17_study.htm?prod=FS17. Looks like it would be more fiberglassing, but this is more like what I'm looking for. Plus, I can fit it the way I want & there's an option to make the sides 6" higher as well. I would opt for the center console option. One day, I'd like to build bigger boat with a cuddy cabin or pilot house. One day, we plan on moving to/near the Bay; somewhere on the water & it'd be nice to have a bigger boat to take family out. I like the cuddy cabin/pilot house plans because some of my family really don't do well out in the sun.
    =-)

  2. #62
    I am also always cruising e-bay motors & craigslist for used & inexpensive boats/hulls. I don't know if it would be easier to rehab than to build, though. Sounds like there are pro's & con's to each. I'm thinking it would be easier to start from scratch that to repair something already built. Thoughts?

  3. #63
    Quote Originally Posted by MATT HASSMER View Post
    I'm thinking it would be easier to start from scratch that to repair something already built. Thoughts?
    I post a lot of pictures to provide an idea of what you have to buy besides wood, and what you'll have to make in anything more complicated than a bare bones canoe or skiff. Powerboats use pretty much the same quantity of expensive goodies, they are just different goodies like motors, tanks, rails, windshields and controls.

















    It's amazing how much money building from scratch adds up to. I stopped counting finishing out this simple dory, made all the wood and much of the metal fitments myself and I bought the remaining bronze hardware used on eBay.

    You can't buy retail wood and West Marine fitments and can't come out much ahead of a storebought boat, let alone restoring an older boat in middling condition. It's often worth a week's vacation time and long road trip to find the right one. Surveying an open boat doesn't require an special expertise. Moisture meters can find rot almost as well as ice picks.

    I'd much rather build from scratch than restore, but if you need a boat for the family to use in the near term, finding the right oldie is cheapest and most efficient in manhours by far. Then once you have a boat to use, you can take more time and care building your next one from scratch.

    I'd also like to wean you from the idea of plywood, as using the real thing is more fun. But that depends on whether you live in an area with local sawmills and the right trees.
    Last edited by Bob Smalser; 04-10-2008 at 12:24 PM.
    “Perhaps then, you will say, ‘But where can one have a boat like that built today?’ And I will tell you that there are still some honest men who can sharpen a saw, plane, or adze...men (who) live and work in out of the way places, but that is lucky, for they can acquire materials for one third of city prices. Best, some of these gentlemen’s boatshops are in places where nothing but the occasional honk of a wild goose will distract them from their work.” -- L Francis Herreshoff

  4. #64
    Definitely food for thought. I don't have a timeline on this & I figure that instead of plunking down a chunk of change for a new/used boat, I could pay as I build & get the boat that I want by building it myself. I could build in whatever additional bait boxes, storage/stowage, & seat configuration I wanted (within reason of course). I figured it would take me a while to build it or it would take me a while to pay for it. Either way it's a waiting game, but building it would give me bragging rights as well.

  5. #65
    Quote Originally Posted by MATT HASSMER View Post
    I don't know if it would be easier to rehab than to build, though.
    Other than replacing the stem and keel, there is little restoration on a wooden boat that isn't within your capacity now with a little coaching. Restoring one involves measuring the boat for true and correcting if necessary, just one of dozens of practice events for lofting, layout and spiling later.



    This Meranti ply lapstrake pram was headed for the dumpster because of extensive rot and three inches of twist in the hull.



    Repair is simply a matter of saw, feather the hull and a matching patch, glue and fair one problem at a time:







    To remove the twist I removed all the knees, pulled the boat into place on a strongback, and added new, stringer knees:



    An efficient method to get out knees is to steam strips in place til they take a set, then laminate in place using slip sheets followed by removal, cleanup and final installation:



    The result in 30 manhours turned firewood into a boat with decades of life remaining.



    Last edited by Bob Smalser; 04-10-2008 at 2:55 PM.
    “Perhaps then, you will say, ‘But where can one have a boat like that built today?’ And I will tell you that there are still some honest men who can sharpen a saw, plane, or adze...men (who) live and work in out of the way places, but that is lucky, for they can acquire materials for one third of city prices. Best, some of these gentlemen’s boatshops are in places where nothing but the occasional honk of a wild goose will distract them from their work.” -- L Francis Herreshoff

  6. #66

    WoodenBoat School

    Matt, I have not built a boat yet, although 8 years ago, I attended a two week introduction to wooden boat building class at WoodenBoat headquarters in Maine. I totally enjoyed the class and have had the urge to build a wooden boat since then. Eventually I will, but not in the near future. Since attending the school, I have been a regular subscriber to WoodenBoat magazine, an excellent bi-monthly publication. The magazine is full of information, including sources for kits. It's up to you to decide how much effort and money you want to put into the project and this magazine can help you sort out things.

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Milwaukee, WI, USA
    Posts
    179
    Did any of you not use full-length strips to build your boats?

    My Kayak Story:

    About a year ago, I was delivering pizzas when I drove past this one house where I recognized the sound of an orbital sander. I looked to the left and there I saw a garage with about 10 completed boats on one side and another under construction on the other side. I was so caught up in the sight that I couldn't find the house a mile down the road that I was delviering to, despite the guy being a regular.

    So, I stopped at the house on the way back. I was about as excited as a 10-year old with a new xbox. I walked up to the guy and said "It is so awesome to know that there are other people around here who wants to build kayaks too!" I had a really big smile at this point!

    BUT, the guy said, "I'm sorry to tell you this, but the gentleman who owns these boats and tools just passed away two weeks ago. Mabey you would like all of these forms and tools."

    So, I have about 15 templates now to build kayaks and canoes. I've seen many of the plans offered by different companies.

    I think that I will build a Peterboro for my first canoe, but I want to shorten the front and rear so that it is a bit smaller and easier for me to move around.

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Smithfield, Va
    Posts
    328
    Allan,
    For my canoes I always use full length strips. As I am not into kayaking I haven't built one.
    The Peterborough is an excellent all purpose canoe and a wise choise. I would however caution you as to shortening the length. Anymore than about 10% will have an impact on the boats handling and stability characteristics. Rather than shortening the bow and stern, just place the station moulds closer together. Remember you only have about 10% to play with. Been there , Done that, Got the tee shirt!

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Colonial Heights, Virginia
    Posts
    200
    Allan,
    I used 12' strips on my 18' kayak. I scarfed the sheer strips, most others I butt jointed on a station, being careful not to have joints fall on the same station. I used bead & cove strips which helps hold the joints in line. Also, as I milled the strips I kept the strips in order of the way they were ripped from the board. This helped with color and grain matching of the western red cedar. There are many joints that are hard to find...and a few that are... well not so hard
    Cheers,
    Gary
    Gary

    "It is neither wealth nor splendor, but tranquility and occupation which give happiness. " Thomas Jefferson

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Smithfield, Va
    Posts
    328
    Matt,
    I have spent the last few days reviewing Bob's comments and recommendations and I have to agree with all.
    One comment he did make about being in an area with both sawmills and the right trees pretty much tells the story. Southestern Va lacks what Bob has in his backyard. Most if not all of suitable boat lumber is imported from either the northeast or northwest. As a result the price of what is available is out of reach for most working people. Even marine grade ply is out of sight. I do envy the resources he has readily available.
    Irregardless whether you choose to build from scratch or restore, It's ultimately your boat and your decision. Keep us posted (with pictures)
    Let me know if I can be of any assistance.

    Pictures- Something a father carries in his wallet where his money used to be!

  11. #71
    Plywood is a state of mind.

    Virginia is abundant in:

    Black Locust for frames.
    White Oak for frames.
    Black Walnut for frames and transoms.
    Black Cherry for frames and transoms.
    Apple for knees.
    Sassafras for planking.
    Atlantic White Cedar for planking harvested from coastal NC to NJ.
    Doug Fir construction lumber and Western Red Cedar are sold nation wide.

    All are durable woods.

    Solid wood takes a bit longer than plywood, but from a local sawyer is less expensive yet the resulting boat is both worth more dollarwise and will stand the eventual abuse boats get much better than ply. It's also a helluva lot more pleasant to work.

    Doug Fir construction lumber can be had these days for as little as 80 cents a bf. Buy 2X12's thru 18' ....mills save their best logs for long joists and rafters....and you can highgrade these into lovely VG heartwood for frames, transoms, thwarts and rails:



    The notion that carvel boats don't make good trailer boats because they dry out and leak until they take up is nonsense. That's true for older boats with planks worn out from compression set, but get the moisture content right in a new boat and it will remain leak free forever on a trailer. Just don't leave it in the water for more than a couple weeks. And if you need a trailer boat capable of being moored for extended periods, double planking with tarred canvas in between the layers is the way to go. Double planking a flat-bottomed skiff of Garvey isn't a big job, either. Caulking small boats is child's play and can be done using a pizza cutter.



    If you live anywhere near the woods in most parts of the country, plywood simply isn't necessary.
    Last edited by Bob Smalser; 04-17-2008 at 1:58 AM.
    “Perhaps then, you will say, ‘But where can one have a boat like that built today?’ And I will tell you that there are still some honest men who can sharpen a saw, plane, or adze...men (who) live and work in out of the way places, but that is lucky, for they can acquire materials for one third of city prices. Best, some of these gentlemen’s boatshops are in places where nothing but the occasional honk of a wild goose will distract them from their work.” -- L Francis Herreshoff

  12. #72
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Smithfield, Va
    Posts
    328
    Bob,
    Pizza cutter???
    What kind of pizza do they serve you guys out there? Over here pizza cutters are a little to sharp for caulking purposes ( I will admit however to occasionaly using mine to trim veneers).
    As for the lumber, the key word is locally available. The majority of mills are in the western part of the state and are a 4 to 6 hour drive one way."Locally" about an hour away, the only place selling boat material is commanding top dollar. Everyone else is doing treated landscape timber and warped 2 x 4's. If you know someone in the Hampton Roads area, let me know. I haven't found them yet!

  13. #73
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    Description: Portable swingmill operation with ability to custom mill and slab large logs at your location or mine.


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    Description: Custom Millwork, Sawmill, Kiln Drying


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    Description: Offering full processing from log milling to finished lumber, and custom woodwork.


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    Description: Portable sawmilling serving Nothern VA using thin kerf Wood-Mizer bandmill. Weekends & evenings. No job to small. Kiln drying. Lumber sales. Insured.


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    Description: We offer portable and stationary sawmill services of hard and softwoods, specializing in quarter sawing. We also provide custom kiln drying services.


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    Description: CUSTOM SAWING,KILN DRYING AND MILLING


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    Description: Custom sawing to your specifications.


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    Description: Portable sawmill in historic Southampton Co. area, turning your logs into valuable boards


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    Description: Custom sawing at your location or mine. Fully hydraulic bandmill. 24 years experience in hardwood lumber manufacture, inspection and kiln drying.


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    Fax: Same
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    Website:

    Description: Custom Sawmilling, on-site sawmilling, tree takedowns, lot clearing,and log removals.


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    Directory ID Number: 1419
    Website:

    Description: Will saw logs and materials from old cabins, barns, etc.
    “Perhaps then, you will say, ‘But where can one have a boat like that built today?’ And I will tell you that there are still some honest men who can sharpen a saw, plane, or adze...men (who) live and work in out of the way places, but that is lucky, for they can acquire materials for one third of city prices. Best, some of these gentlemen’s boatshops are in places where nothing but the occasional honk of a wild goose will distract them from their work.” -- L Francis Herreshoff

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