Shop Lighting: Making fluorescent fixtures moveable?

[Harry Hagan]

I started reviewing the shop-lighting threads with the notion that recessed fluorescent would best suite my situation (9’ ceiling). Then someone mentioned recessed fixtures might be a fire hazard and others had quite a few fixtures but still needed more light. Also, holes in the ceiling break the insulation barrier.

My stationary equipment can be ideally placed with mobile bases—why not make overhead lighting fixtures mobile too? Is there any reason why fluorescent fixtures can’t be mounted on ceiling rails with a T-slot to slide the fixture from end-to-end? A coiled electrical cord could be plugged into a ceiling receptacle for the power supply.

Advantages:

• Fewer fixtures = reduced cost
• Fewer fixtures = opportunity to install better tubes
• Lighting can be concentrated in one area if desired
• Fixture can be moved to allow clearance when handling material

A furniture finisher/refinisher once recommended a higher quality fluorescent tube for close-up work; does anyone know what they are called?

Your Pros, Cons and improvements on this idea are welcome.

Harry

[Eric Haycraft]

Your shop looks to be about the size of my garage. I have 4 quad bulb fixtures and 2 double bulb fixtures. All t-8. If I were to do it again from scratch, I would go with 6 quad bulb fixtures. It sounds like a lot, but it is hard to get to the point of having too much light. I upgraded from 4 twin bulb fixtures and it made a huge difference when complete. Much easier to read lines and see my work...and I am not exactly old and have 20/20 vision.

If you go with fluorescents, stick with t-8's. They are the successor to t-12's and are more energy efficient so they end up being cheaper in the long run. They also work better if your garage gets cold because they can start in 0 degree conditions unlike t-12 bulbs.

Another idea: My old lights were hung from chains. If I wanted to move the light, I just moved the two hooks in the ceiling and moved it. The lights at the time were all plug in so I could just use some small cable hooks or ties and keep the plug in out of the way.

If you really want quick mobility, I would suggest looking at track lighting. Your idea would probably work, but you will likely run into issues with the cords hanging down too low and snagging them on things.

[JayStPeter]

I know myself and I would probably not move them every time I really needed to. Plus, you'll be working at two or three stations at once very often and two of those stations may "share" a light. I would (did) go with more dual-bulb fixtures over fewer quad.
I made the decision to go with lower cost fixtures so I could have enough light everywhere. I have had a few failures over the years and have replaced a couple of the fixtures and some parts. That's to be expected with $12 fixtures I guess. Overall, I'm happy with the decision I made. I'd rather have more light where I need it. Another bonus of the cheap fixtures is they have chain pull switches in them. I can turn off fixtures when I want a particular lighting layout. I find this useful during final sanding and finishing. I also use daylight bulbs throughout my shop. Check your local lighting place as I got the bulbs at 1/2 the cost of the borg, but I did have to buy them by the case (not a problem with 20+ fixtures).

[Jim O'Dell]

My main shop space is 20 X 24. I have places for six 4' twin bulb units, and four 8' quad bulb units. I only have half of the 4'ers installed right now. The three I haven't bought and installed yet are in the corners that aren't in much use so far. I bought my fixtures from HD, and these lights online from Business lights dot com. http://www.businesslights.com/32w-50...e25-p-437.html
With shipping, they worked out to about 2.60 per bulb in a box of 25. I couldn't touch that locally. Bulbs are made in Germany, IIRC. No breakage at all. I've used all but 3 of the original order. I'll have to order more when I get the remaining fixtures for the shop and the finishing room. Jim.

[Mike Williams]

...A furniture finisher/refinisher once recommended a higher quality fluorescent tube for close-up work; does anyone know what they are called?

Harry - I am no expert on fluorescent lighting, but I believe your source might have been referring to picking a light bulb with a high Color Rendering Index (CRI).

"What is Color Rendering Index (CRI)?

Color rendering describes how a light source makes the color of an object appear to human eyes and how well subtle variations in color shades are revealed. The Color Rendering Index (CRI) is a scale from 0 to 100 percent indicating how accurate a "given" light source is at rendering color when compared to a "reference" light source.

The higher the CRI, the better the color rendering ability. Light sources with a CRI of 85 to 90 are considered good at color rendering. Light sources with a CRI of 90 or higher are excellent at color rendering and should be used for tasks requiring the most accurate color discrimination."

I am picking out some new T8 bulbs for my woodworking final assembly and finishing / stained glass studio area. I plan on ordering these Philips bulbs (http://www.bulbs.com/eSpec.aspx?ID=9...f2=Light+Bulbs) with a CRI of 98.

However, it comes at a price! The bulbs are $8.25 each, so you would only want to use them where they are critical.

[jason lambert]

In most areas you can't do it it is agenst code. The issue is romex is solid conductor wire if you mve it alot it cracks breaks and causes fires. Code usally sais it has to be secured (i think 6") from the fixture and every 12". Anyhow doesn't sit well like a good idea to me I would just add more lights besides moving them is pretty useless anyhow it is souch a defused light.

[Thom Sturgill]

From what I've read, there is three type of lighting to be considered. Area (or ambient) lighting, task lighting and accent lighting. The latter probably does not matter unless you have a display case that you want to show off.

For ambient lighting I would go with several fixed tubes - say two banks of two lights with each bank on its own switch so that you have some control. Then add specific aimed spots, track lighting, or under cabinet lights to light individual work areas. These can be low voltage lamps. Include some that are easily moved to give you 'raking light' during finish prep.

[Jim Becker]

The issue is romex is solid conductor wire if you mve it alot it cracks breaks and causes fires.

The OP indicated that the connection would be via a flexible cable appropriate for the application.

[Tom Henderson2]

Hi Harry-

25 years ago, when I was living in another home, I tried something similar. I only had 4 fixtures and wanted them to cover the entire 2-car garage/shop. This was an older wood-framed garage with no ceiling; just open joists. So I built some simple sliders that allowed the fixtures to slide along the joists.

I lived there for a couple years after that, and I don't think I ever ONCE moved one of the fixtures. It was easier to move the work to the good light than the other way around.

Perhaps it might work for you, but the experience I described above puts me strongly in the "more fixtures" camp rather than the "moving fixture" camp.

YMMV.

-Tom H.