Sharpening Husky 455 Rancher chain? Correct size file and file guide

[Nathan Hawkes]

There are several pitches of chain; this is the average distance between rivets. The most common pitches are 1/4" (top handle arborist saws only) .325, 3/8", and .404. Yours is either .325 or 3/8". To compound the issue, there are three common gauges (thickness of the drive links). .050, .058, and .063. Huskys are usually .050 or .058.

[Scott Hubl]

Thats what I don't understand , why dont MY manual just tell me what chain I have and what file I NEED to sharpen the darn thing?

No one has bought this 455 at Lowes?
What file are you using?

Thats basically what I need to know, and the manual isnt helpful.

[Nathan Hawkes]

You need to look on the bar. It will tell you whether it is set for 3/8" chain or for .325" chain. The sprockets aren't interchangeable. If it is 3/8" chain, you have the right file. If it is .325" chain, you need a 3/16" file, according to the chart.

[Jason Roehl]

Okay, here you go, Scott. Look at the numbers stamped on the drive links of your chain. If they're "25" or "30" (or "H25" or "H30"), then the file size is 3/16". If the stamp is "42" or "H42", then the file size is 7/32".

Take note also of the 4th column in the second chart on page 38. That's your filing angle.

I should mention that if your chains are very dull, you are probably ahead to either buy a new chain (for tomorrow) and/or take the one(s) you have to a professional sharpener. Hand filing a very dull chain is not fun and tends not to produce good results, especially in the hands of a novice. (How many people here would hand-file their TS blades?)

You may also need to file the rakers down (you'll need a filing depth gauge) to get a consistent 0.025".

[Nathan Hawkes]

thats good advice.

[Jason Roehl]

Looking back through the manual, page 12 has some filing advice as well, and a guide to the symbols used in the table on page 38.

[Scott Hubl]

Thanks everyone,
When I bought my saw originally I bought this>http://http://www.usa.husqvarna.com/....aspx?pid=5203 Kit.

The middle one of the 3. Although I get an ERROR when choosing it to print the product sheet.

I bought the 3/8" File Kit with 7/32" files and a flat file in the kit. - 505 69 81-12 - 3/8" (H42, H45, H46, H47, H475, H48, H485, H51, H54, H8 and H81)
My roller guide is blue.

I decided to just run out to Lowes and bought Two Husqvarna 20" chains for the Rancher 455 right on the package, so I'm all set with 2 New Sharp chains for going out to Wades for the walnut he has .

I now have 4 chains and will find a place to sharpen them.

Looking at the NEW chains it does say on the pacakage H80 (72V),Drive Links 72, Pitch 3/8", Gauge .050", 7/32" (5.5mm)

So I guess when I bought my saw I guessed right on the file and roller thing. (which basically has no directions for its use) Only a couple black line drawings with no words on the back of the package.

Thanks for the help , I'll have to have the sharpener guy show me how to use that roller thing for quick on site touch ups.

I will NOT hit dirt tomorrow with the chain, lesson learned.

And now I will keep Sharp chains on hand for the unexpected Free wood offers.

Thanks again for the help.


Just now founf on Huskys web site.- Husky Sharpening Vid.

[Jason Roehl]

Scott, this is my first year NOT burning wood for heat in quite some time, but here's a few things I've learned about chains. Don't keep a bunch of chains around--it's easier to change a chain than sharpen it, so you'll end up doing that instead of sharpening, and have a whole slew of dull chains at some point when you need to do some cutting. Also, as you said, keep it out of the dirt. This includes cutting through the bottom sections of hollow trees, which are often full of decayed tree matter--dirt. If you suspect it's hollow cut around it instead of through. As soon as you notice the performance of a chain decrease, stop using it. Change chains or sharpen. It's much, much easier and quicker to sharpen a slightly dull chain than a very dull one. Dull chains just make you work harder and wear you out, at which point you'll start making poor safety decisions.

BTW, I use a Harbor Freight chainsaw sharpener. Works great. It's like a mini-miter saw with a pink grinding wheel instead of a blade. I paid about $80 several years ago, but that was for an Italian-made item. They've since replace it with a Chinese knock-off that sells for about half that.

[Stan Terrell]

The rancher comes with a 3/8 pitch chain. Therefore a 7/32 file is used

Stan

[Curt Fuller]

I've had very good results using the Dremel sharpening setup. If you find the size you need, dremel makes 3 or 4 different grinder bits so one should work. One thing I learned using the dremel though is to take a very light grind. It doesn't take much to sharpen and too much just wears out the teeth fast.