Too Big For A Paper Weight

[FRITZ STOOP]

I AM A WOODWORKER AND A HOME BUILDER, AND I HIRE ELECTRICIANS CUZ AS FAR AS I'M CONCERNED, ELECTRICITY IS DANGEROUS MAGIC. I CAN DO SIMPLE HOUSEHOLD WIRING, BUT THAT'S IT. SO, THE PROBLEM IS..........
I JUST RECEIVED A "NEVER BEEN USED" MM CU 300 SMART. THE PLATE SAYS IT WAS BUILT IN 2002. I BELIEVE IT IS A 1PH, 230V, 60Hz MOTOR(S),4.8 HP, 21 AMP, MACHINE.
THE CONNECTION BOX SHOWS 2 HOT LEADS (120V) AND A GROUND.
I GOT A CIRCUIT WITH A 30A DOUBLE BREAKER.
I FOLLOWED THE MANUAL AS FAR AS CONTROL PANEL SETTINGS.
SO, WHY, WHEN I PUSH THE GREEN BUTTON, DO I GET A LOT OF SILENCE?
ANYBODY GOT ANY IDEAS? DO I NEED TO INCREASE THE CABLE SIZE FROM THE BREAKERS TO OUTLET?
HELP!

[Jim Becker]

If you have connected the two hots in the right places as well as the ground, and have the main power disconnect turned on, the machine should work EXCEPT if any of the micro-switches that are scattered around the machine are not closed. They are there for safety to insure that you have closed all the doors, fastened the blade shroud properly in the TS portion, etc. It only takes one of those micro-switches to not be engaged to keep all power from the machine.

Not starting has nothing to do with the size of the wire (should be #10) or the breaker (should be 30amp) unless they are not supplying power to begin with.

[Steve Leverich]

You might want to measure between your two "hots" with a volt meter to make sure they are on opposite legs of the supply - you'll either get 240 volts or ZERO. If it's zero, that's why it won't run... Steve

[Jeff Raymond]

I AM A WOODWORKER AND A HOME BUILDER, AND I HIRE ELECTRICIANS CUZ AS FAR AS I'M CONCERNED, ELECTRICITY IS DANGEROUS MAGIC.

I think I have just found a soulmate.

[Bill White]

OK! I give up. What the hay is a MM 30 CU Smart? But then again I didn't really understand 2001 A Space Odyssey either.
Bill

[jason lambert]

For a 30AMP breaker I think you need 10 guage wire. I know you need 12 guage for a 20Amp breaker. Anyhow this should be printed on the wire. Anyhow make sure you match the right wire to the breaker if not you defeat the purpose of having the breaker the wire will burn up first before tripping the breaker and could cause a fire. However if you are not goting anything I doubt it is the wire fault unless you totally ran the wrong thing like zip cord or something then it is possible it is not carrying enought current to start the thing.

[Brad Shipton]

Are there safety switches on that machine? If it does nothing, there may be a safety switch clicked off. Both euro machines I have purchased I have had to call my rep to get them running. The first time I had to depress the button long enough for the machine to spin up (soft start) and my saw/shaper has a three way switch that will disengages the motors when I access the blades or the shaper head. Just an idea.

Brad

[David G Baker]

OK! I give up. What the hay is a MM 30 CU Smart? But then again I didn't really understand 2001 A Space Odyssey either.
Bill

I just did a Google on MM 30 CU Smart, didn't get any satisfaction unless it is a Jenaire something.
It scares me because I did understand the 2001 Space Odyssey.

[Jim O'Dell]

The MM 30 CU Smart is one of Mini Max's saws, slider I think. Nice saw!! Congrats on it's arrival, Fritz! I'd check with a volt meter to see if you have poWer at on the wires at the machine where you hooked it up. If so, when you start playing with the micro switches, make sure you have power disconnected. Might not be pretty if it powered up while you're working on it. Work on one switch at a time, then turn on power to see if you get it running. If needed, you might be able to get some information (schematic) from Mini Max. Jim.

[Brad Schmid]

OK! I give up. What the hay is a MM 30 CU Smart? But then again I didn't really understand 2001 A Space Odyssey either.
Bill

It's an acronym for "great big pile o' money"
Check the Minimax website under "combination machines"

[Mike Spanbauer]

I AM A WOODWORKER AND A HOME BUILDER, AND I HIRE ELECTRICIANS CUZ AS FAR AS I'M CONCERNED, ELECTRICITY IS DANGEROUS MAGIC. I CAN DO SIMPLE HOUSEHOLD WIRING, BUT THAT'S IT. SO, THE PROBLEM IS..........
I JUST RECEIVED A "NEVER BEEN USED" MM CU 300 SMART. THE PLATE SAYS IT WAS BUILT IN 2002. I BELIEVE IT IS A 1PH, 230V, 60Hz MOTOR(S),4.8 HP, 21 AMP, MACHINE.
THE CONNECTION BOX SHOWS 2 HOT LEADS (120V) AND A GROUND.
I GOT A CIRCUIT WITH A 30A DOUBLE BREAKER.
I FOLLOWED THE MANUAL AS FAR AS CONTROL PANEL SETTINGS.
SO, WHY, WHEN I PUSH THE GREEN BUTTON, DO I GET A LOT OF SILENCE?
ANYBODY GOT ANY IDEAS? DO I NEED TO INCREASE THE CABLE SIZE FROM THE BREAKERS TO OUTLET?
HELP!

I'm sorry to say Fritz, but it sounds like your MM is a piece of scrap. I'll be happy to remedy you of this though and be willing to make the enormous 2 hour trek to relieve you of your burden for no fee's other than assistance loading.

All kidding aside, congrats on the machine. They are quite impressive and that jointer capacity alone makes the entire unit worth it!

I think that the troubleshooting advice you've been given so far is worthy and at this point, if you're still having challenges hooking it up you should likely consider an electrician to come in and wire it up.

If you blow the starters due to an incorrect configuration, the fee's will be much higher than the electricians labor AND the downtime will be annoying.

Again, congrats on the machine and should you choose to sell it at some point, ping me

mike

ps. re-reading this thread I missed the safety switches. I own an MM16 bandsaw which possesses these too, and I believe EVERY piece of MM equipment does due to Euro regulations (built in Italy.)
They are really, really finicky if they get out of alignment. I would recommend making sure that they are all closing correctly and start there.

[FRITZ STOOP]

Well, I think it's down to the micro switches.

I got this beast for $8500 and it still had the cosmoline on it. Never been used, but it was made in 2002 so it sat for a while. Might be a bit of corrosion in on of those switches. Or something related to lack of use.
Its definitely got me pulling (what's left of) my hair out!
Cross your fings, if you still got 'em.
Fritz the cat

[Roy Wall]

Did you check and see if the there is a master power switch on machine itself? I have a FS35 J/P and even though you run power to it - you have to turn a master switch on the machine itself - then you can turn it on.

[Randall Davis]

You might want to measure between your two "hots" with a volt meter to make sure they are on opposite legs of the supply - you'll either get 240 volts or ZERO. If it's zero, that's why it won't run... Steve

careful with this! ZERO does not necessarily mean you have no current at the two hot wires.

[Steve Leverich]

Randall, I know - but it WOULD mean that both hot wires are connected to the same leg of the AC supply instead of one to each, and the machine would see no 240 volts. In either case, it's true that there would be 120 volts to ground from either hot leg. But as far as the machine's concerned, there would/could be no voltage difference between the two hot leads, and it wouldn't run... Steve