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Thread: Sandblasting Wisdom

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    East-Central Indiana, USA
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    236

    Sandblasting Wisdom

    I recently had the opportunity to pick up a used sandblasting cabinet to give me something to do when I'm pondering all the information I'm still trying to learn about my laser. Does anyone have a good source for the condensed vesion of "sandblasting for dummies" to point me toward?
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Greg Vaughn [Epilog Helix 45W] - CorelDrawX3 - Photograv 2.11

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Laguna Hills, Ca
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    74

    Added Sandblastetr

    Greg
    I to have a sandblaster along with my Epilog. Great combination of equipment. One thing I do not see here much is the use of "laser tape"
    I have had my sandblaster for over a year and have not used anything else as a mask. I get my tape from Ikonics and use it on everything I blast. A few exceptions on multi-stage carving. For that I use vinyl mask. Rayzist has a class in Vista Ca. but personally I did not get much from it. Aliente school is in New Mexico, but it's a little pricy for me.
    Good luck and have fun.
    Rags

    Epilog 36EXT/75 watts, Rayzist Sandblaster, and Chroma Crystal

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Sammamish, WA
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    7,630
    It depends on what you are going to do with it, the light blasting on glass and plastics with laser tape is fine, for larger sandblasted wood or Urethane signs you need to use a thicker rubber stencil like Anchor, stencil filler adhesive, and either use a plotter to cut it or hand cut. There is a learning curve from practice to be able to get depth without blowing out the stencil and ruining the piece, especially where the rubber is not very wide. Normally on small ones I will laser cut the stencil on the wood, or if more than 12x24 will plotter cut it. For really large ones I pen plot the design on paper, and use spray adhesive to the rubber on the wood then hand cut. You will also have to be able to join boards to produce the stock for larger signs, we normally will use
    biscuits to glue up 2x8s with clear cedar.

    Here's one brief introduction:
    http://www.signcraft.com/mjack094.pdf



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Lake Tapawingo, a suburb of Blue Springs, a suburb of Kansas City, MO. The Kansas City you know is in Missouri.
    Posts
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    Be careful

    Remember that what you blast off goes into the air and you probably don't want to breathe it, so vent wisely.
    Also, if you are doing glass, it is a good idea to protect the back with a mask to keep from getting a "splash back" etching from richochetting abrasive.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Slippery Rock, PA
    Posts
    556

    sand blast cabinet

    I'm not trying to steal the thread but I have a question. I have owned a 24x36 sand blast cabinet for about 20 years. the last 5+ yrs its been in a not used state. Just no need. If I were to use this for signage what size tip, and blast media would I use. I see some fantastic work done but no one has addressed the cabinet?
    thank you for the input.
    ken
    Epilog Laser, CNC equipment, Corel X3 & 4, Aspire

  6. #6
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    Jul 2005
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    Sammamish, WA
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    7,630
    I used to have it done by a local guy who had a booth the size of a large bedroom, he dressed up like an old tile skin diver. His compressor was the size of a big SUV. He moved across the state but I still use him for big ones. The nozzle he uses for them is 1" at the tip. He uses coarse sand for wood, other abrasives for metal and other work that he does.


    Doing smaller ones myself I use a 5 HP with 30 gallon tank and sometimes have to wait for it to catch up to 75-80 psi. 10+ HP is better. My nozzle is 3/16" at the tip.

    I use coarse sand, the kind that's in the inexpensive bags used for winter weight or stopping floods. The playground sand is too fine.



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

  7. #7
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    Feb 2004
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    Slippery Rock, PA
    Posts
    556

    sand blast cabinet

    I've already got the 5hp compressor and the necessary dust collection system but I've always used glass bead ( I believe .05 size) and 50 psi any higher psi and you destroy the glass bead. does this sound right Joe. My intent is to do small items not large signs and such. Also should I use the smallest tip available or just the normal size for regular jobs?
    ken
    Epilog Laser, CNC equipment, Corel X3 & 4, Aspire

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    East-Central Indiana, USA
    Posts
    236
    Thanks for all the wisdom .... I just got the pressure pot from Grainger today and I'll get it setup with the cabinet and see what happens! Just when my laser "scrap pile" started to reach negative growth I start a new pile with the blaster....
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Greg Vaughn [Epilog Helix 45W] - CorelDrawX3 - Photograv 2.11

  9. #9
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    Sammamish, WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenneth Hertzog View Post
    I've already got the 5hp compressor and the necessary dust collection system but I've always used glass bead ( I believe .05 size) and 50 psi any higher psi and you destroy the glass bead. does this sound right Joe. My intent is to do small items not large signs and such. Also should I use the smallest tip available or just the normal size for regular jobs?
    ken
    I'm not sure what you mean by small signs, normally if it fits in the laser I'll use that (12x24" or less). A lot less messy and easier. Glass beads at 50 psi work great for cleaning and polishing metals. The smaller the beads, the smoother the surface. I don't know what it does on wood or glass. It's also more expensive than sand or aluminum oxide.



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

  10. Sandblasting

    I started out in this biz as a sandblaster. I kicked it out when I tired of the mess. I am dying to get another one though, a fancy clean model like the crystal blast. I used Silicon Carbide in 220 grit, used plain old vinyl for stencils. I engraved glass and river rocks.........worked out great. You will on occassion lose a few pieces. I have a whole cabinet full of glasses that we use with boo boos.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Slippery Rock, PA
    Posts
    556

    sand blasting

    OK Joe
    you got me with that one
    After looking and watching some of the wonderful work that you do and the size of work ( huge ) you achieve the size of work I put out is small potatoes.
    But
    You are right 12x24 is the largest I would be doing and that is not really small
    Also the grit size for wood removal and also for glass blasting is more the question.
    thank you and I hope this helps others also.

    Nicole: Did you blast glass with the 220 silicon carbide and at what pressure?

    ken
    Last edited by Kenneth Hertzog; 01-29-2008 at 4:13 PM.
    Epilog Laser, CNC equipment, Corel X3 & 4, Aspire

  12. #12
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    Jul 2005
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    Sammamish, WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenneth Hertzog View Post
    OK Joe
    Also the grit size for wood removal and also for glass blasting is more the question.
    ken
    For cedar or redwood we'd use 60 grit, for really big ones with no fine detail 40 grit is a lot faster.



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Imlay City, Mich
    Posts
    807

    I'm thinking about getting a sandblasted sign madeup...

    How much per square foot is reasonable? I'm looking at probably 2' x 4'. Long ways is horizontal. Lettering and a couple simple tool figures will be on it along with a 1'' border. I would like it made out of that HDU stuff about 2" thick and then appropriatley painted when done.
    Michael Gibbons

    I think I like opening day of deer season more than any udder day of the year. It's like Christmas wit guns. - Remnar Soady

    That bear is going to eat him alive. Go help him! That bear doesn't need any help! - The Three Stooges

  14. #14
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    Sammamish, WA
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    We charge $75-100/SF (finished) for Cedar, depending on the detail. With the HDU you have to adjust for the cost of the material vs wood, less the glue-up
    that you won't have to do.



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

  15. #15

    Smile

    Greg,

    If you're looking into sand blasting, check out the forum over at:



    There's a great bunch of people over there that will answer almost any question you have on the subject.
    Last edited by Joe Pelonio; 02-01-2008 at 6:03 PM. Reason: Links to other forums not allowed by TOS


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