Dave,
I would run a seperate 120V circuit for the outlet instead of just running a neutral. I do realize that if you shut off the 240V breaker you would still have power to the box, but I would prefer this to unbalancing my loads. I don't really know what the NEC says about it, but it would be similar to a dryer outlet which has a neutral connector to power the 120V equipment except that it would be a seperate plug.
Mike
Stupid is NOT asking questions. You're way ahead of the game.
A hacksaw is fine - that's how I did my first conduit runs. Just make sure that your cut is nice and square.
Emery paper is fine for removing the burrs. You don't need a special tool.
Make sure that the conduit is sized appropriately for the conductors that you're pulling. Make sure that you use the appropriate connectors to terminate the conduit to the panelboards.
What size circuit are you running and what are you using for conductors?
Nope - run red, black and green. White denotes neutral and a straight 220v circuit doesn't have a neutral.
Best,
Rob
Addy protocol: unlicensed homeowner electrician
David,
You can run a 120v and 240v circuit off of the same breaker. If you think you'd have any chance of running them at the same time with loads that would approach the circuit limits, I'd run (2) separate circuits.
You can put a pair of (1) 120v and (1) 240v duplex receptacles in the same box.
Rob
Addy protocol: unlicensed Homeowner electrician
That's a loaded question. When was your house built? What code had been adopted in your area at the time the house was built? Is the local code based on the NEC? Are there local modifications to the NEC?
Not pigtailing can make it easier, especially in the older, smaller boxes that got used. Let's not get into box fill requirements here.
If you have the time and energy, pigtailed all your receptacles is a nice idea. While you're at it, write the circuit breaker number on the backside of the receptacle & switch plates.
Rob
Addy protocol: unlicensed homeowner electrician
My home was built in the late 60's, and it was in the county here where there wasn't much in the way of inspections, permits and the like. The question is more pertaining to code today and trying to get the house up the latest and greatest when I have the chance. Pigtailing is something I will consider and surely will do in the shop.
But, I hear you on the box fill limits. I will keep those in mind. Thanks.
You can certainly use one of the black/red legs of the 240 circuit in conjunction with the white neutral for 120v. Three conductor (+ ground) NMC is available for just that application. 12ga wire is perfectly acceptable for a 20 amp circuit unless there are abnormally long wire runs involved. There's no need to suffer through installing 10ga wire unless you are seriously considering uprating the circuit to 30a at some future time.
It isn't necessary to separate the different voltage receptacles in different boxes unless some quirk in your local jurisdiction's code requires it. You can get dual voltage duplex receptacles in which one of the outlets is 120 and the other is 240. Be difficult to split that one between two different boxes.
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA
Hi Jason,
I had my final inspection on my shop in July 07. I obtained permits for my house and shop. I almost tore my house down and rebuilt it, and built my new shop. I can't remember how much my permits were, but I will find out and let you know. I do remember when I obtained my permits, I had two options for my electrical permit. one was to pay so much for each outlet, panel etc. Two, was to pay a flat fee for the entire house and shop. I opted for the flat fee. I rewired my entire house as well as my shop. I am in Glendora, Calif.
Sam
Because he is not permitted to install 15 or 20 amp outlets on a 30 amp circuit, using #10 wire for a multiwire branch circuit would be pointless unless he plans to abandon the standard outlets if/and when he were to make this upgrade.
Sorry. I know that you and I are in agreement on this, but the previous poster may not have known this when he suggested that he might use #10 wire.
Ahh, the "10 ga. future expansion on a 20 A circuit" issue! Always a crowd pleaser, sure to bring out discussion on CB protecting the circuit not the equipment, everyone agreeing that a 20A CB on a 20A circuit you just happened to uber-wire with 8 ga or 10 ga would be fine... then someone crosses the CB and the receptacles, someone shoots their eye out with a BB gun, and it all goes downhill
Here's a link in my sig which is extremely useful as a basic garage shop/NEC initial reference. When in doubt, I personally pull up the SEARCH page here, and put "Rick Christopherson" in as the required author, then type a few key words such as "220 receptacle". I have never read a thread on shop power questions where I disagreed with Rick.
I love these threads though, like watching "Most Crazy Car Chases"--you know a big crash is coming, but you just can't stop watching! Having asked all the same questions in this thread myself, I find I'm still interested in the answers despite having wire in conduit and permit in folder.
Good luck!
Thread on "How do I pickup/move XXX Saw?" http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=597898
Compilation of "Which Band Saw to buy?" threads http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...028#post692028
Greg,
That's a good question.
You can use the first/GFCI receptacle to protect the entire circuit. To do so means using the marked Line and Load screws on the GFCI receptacle - which isn't pigtailing. You could then pigtail all of the other receptacles on the circuit.
If you really wanted to avoid voltage drop everywhere on the circuit, you could pigtail every receptacle, but that would mean either using a GFCI breaker or all GFCI receptacles.
IMO, for a home workshop, just running #12 and a 20 amp circuit with a 20 amp GFCI receptacle at the front of the circuit really should be fine.
Rob
Addy protocol: unlicensed homeowner electrician
Last edited by Rob Russell; 01-26-2008 at 7:49 AM.
Unless you are wiring something that needs 110 and 220V, so you only need a two conductor (+unshielded ground) cable... three conductor is a PIA to run, especially if you are talking about 10 gauge.
You can use the normal black/white romax. NEC requirements are met by covering the white wire with electrical tape or something else to make it black at both ends (I use shrinkwrap tubing) so a future electrician understands it is a "hot" insteal of neutral wire.
I would strongly recommend that you wire your 120V outlets to a separate breaker. I doubt your county inspector will be happy if you mix 120V and 220V recepticles in the same box.