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Thread: Drilling Workbench Dog Holes

  1. #1

    Drilling Workbench Dog Holes

    Today I talked with Glen Huey, senior editor at Popular Woodworking magazine, regarding his video: Drilling Workbench Dog Holes. Glen confirmed the bit he used in the video was an Onsrud bit supplied by Woodcraft:

    Onsrud HSS Bit, 3/4" Cutting Dia., 3-1/4" Overall Length, 1-1/4" Cutting Length, 1/2" Shank #03K53 Price:$37.99 http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=1396

    Prior to calling Glen, this was the only bit I could find that would fit a ½” collet with a ¾” cutting diameter. I thought the HSS (high-speed steel) might dull quickly and started looking for a carbide bit. I contacted all of the major bit manufactures, including the Onsrund technical support staff, and they shared my reservations about HSS holding up in this application. After my conversation with Glen, watching the video, and learning that he was drilling into 4/4 Tiger/Curley maple; I ordered the bit from Woodcraft.

    Thanks for your help, Glen (and thanks to Jim Becker for helping me to submit my first post)
    Last edited by Harry Hagan; 01-15-2008 at 10:44 PM.

  2. #2
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    Harry,

    I drilled a half dozen holdfast holes in my maple bench top with the Onsrud 3/4" HSS router bit with no problems at all. I didn't notice any dulling of my bit. I don't know how many holes you plan to drill, but I don't think the bit will dull appreciably. If you think about it, drilling dog holes is strictly a plunge operation, so the bit doesn't cut nearly as much stock as it would in a dado or a rabbit cut.

    My $.02

    Hank

  3. #3
    That’s good news, Hank. I counted 44 holes on the layout drawing provided for the Shaker workbench and Glen said he didn’t have any issues drilling that many holes. It looks like this might be the most cost effective bit to utilize if you want to use the router method and maybe the only one if carbide bits are not available. I’m not sure if that HSS bit can be re-sharpened without changing the diameter.
    Here’s the link to Glen’s video: http://fw_woodworking.permissiontv.c...?showid=474515

  4. #4
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    Use the fence Luke

  5. #5
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    Harry, when I drilled my bench holes, I just used a brand new Irwin spade bit with the little cutter wings on the outside. Perfectly clean holes outside of the exit on the bottom and that could have been fixed by using a sacrificial board. The bit is still sharp and I drilled a LOT of holes in my bench (three rows...twice...don't ask...)
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #6
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    I used the Lee Valley 3/4 inch HSS bit and it worked nicely. Holes were cleanly cut using a 1/2 inch Milwaukee corded drill. Do a search on this site for my post with many photos of the job. Bench top was 2 3/4 inch maple.

  7. #7
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    I used a Cheezy Forstner Bit (tm) and spent half my time sharpening.
    Ah, youth.

  8. #8
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    I used this setup drilling dog holes in a bench with a cherry top. Most of the holes worked fine. I did have problems with several of them catching and just about twisting my arm off. The last hole caught and tore up pretty badly. Just be careful.

  9. #9
    Doug, I’m thinking an up-cut bit would enable the hole to be made in a single plunge and lessen the chance of messing up the hole. The router method seems pretty straight forward and error proof if you take it slow and easy and have a well-designed jig.
    Casey, thanks for the warning. What do you think about a jig that prevents the router housing from rotating? Align it, clamp it down, and plunge. I’d rather break a bit or a router than an arm or wrist.

  10. #10
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    I am at the point where I'll be drilling the majority of my dog holes soon (this weekend I hope). I have already done a few just as a test. I looked at the Glen Huey video, then looked at the bits and decided it was a pretty expensive way to do it (both in terms of time and money). I bought a drill bit from LV for about $15 and made a drilling jig on my DP in about 1 min from scraps. So far all my holes are straight and right where I want them. My jig will easily work without modification for holes going into the side of my bench as well.
    Jay St. Peter

  11. #11
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    I used a 3/4" Freud forstner bit in an battery powered drill. I made jig to postion the holes and to start them square to the surface.

    I wouldn't hesitate using my Irwin auger bits with a brace though. another sight of eyes to verify keeping the holes square would be nice.

  12. #12
    I wore my cheap 3/4 forstner to a nub drilling through MDF. But I found some peculiar looking spades on Amazon a couple of days ago. I'll probably order them today (3 pc set; $13.04). Search Amazon for "irwin speedbor max". They seem to be a cross between a spade and a brad point. They look cool to me.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Shepard View Post
    This is the one I picked up but have yet to use since my bench is still in pieces...keep waiting to walk into the garage and see them all magically put together....
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

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