Jim, your table looks great in that spot. It looks like the new addition is coming along too.
Don, that's a nice hall table you built. I like the proportions. They fit your choice of wood.
Member
Jim, your table looks great in that spot. It looks like the new addition is coming along too.
Don, that's a nice hall table you built. I like the proportions. They fit your choice of wood.
Member
You could fill the same amount of space AND have the table look less expansive if you bow the front a bit. Say, 24" deep at the center (still WAY big) and 18-20" at each end.
It seems you have a big hallway; fine, but a 24" deep top in my hallway would collect LOTS of junk...
Moderator
LOL Around here, "some folks" would try to stuff the same amount of junk on a 6" wide surface by just piling it higher.Originally Posted by Tom Sontag
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Member
Man.... if I called LOML's stuff the puts on tables etc junk...... I'd have to move into the "apartment" LOML's dubbed the shop.
Don,
Nice table... I was wanting to see the rest of it after seeing the stretcher joint in the Neander Cave.....
Greg
Member
It wouldn't be LOML's junk. It would be mine!
Stuff for hall table:
lamp, check
bowl or art piece, check
today's mail, check
Add for BIG hall table:
bills to pay
newspapers and magazines
winter coat
gloves
Honey, have you seen my keys?
couple of books
if kids around, add anything else you like....
Moderator
Sorry, Adam...we've been getting a little carried away and OT in your thread. It happens sometimes...
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
[OP]
Member
Alright, it would be a big table for putting a lot of crap on, but I am hoping the top will be too nice to put too much on there. I found some very nice looking paldao for the top - it has some nice figure and I really like the black lines.
As a further aside - the newer design calls from a much slimmed down body, (the legs are down to 1.5 inches and taper to 1 inch). The aprons are 5 inches now.
Now, the question I have been pondering is the issue of drawers - The drawers would be lipped, and are 3 inch drawer fronts - some of the paldao I have is nice quilted in its figure and I want to use this as drawer fronts. As I considered the construction of the drawers, I realized the drawers would be very shallow - almost to the point of asking myself - what is the point? Should I consider faux drawers? How else could they be constructed to maximize depth and usable space? Should I scrap them altogether and use the wood for something else?
Maybe shallow drawers are ok (cut the temptation for clutter)? I had planned on using those hidden side slides (they mount on the bottom) so I can be sure to admire those dovetails that I am thinking about cutting... though I might go back to the jig if I get too frustrated (those buggers continue to vex me).
Member
Why not do flush fit drawers? That would maximize depth (height) for the drawers.
"History is strewn with the wrecks of nations which have gained a little progressiveness at the cost of a great deal of hard manliness, and have thus prepared themselves for destruction as soon as the movements of the world gave a chance for it." -Walter Bagehot
[OP]
Member
Admittedly it is because I do not know how to build drawers runners/supports inside the cabinet to accomodate them - though I can look into this as yet another thing to learn...
Member
It sounds like you'll be using solid stock for your draw boxes, a simple dado in the side and a Maple or Qtr. sawn Oak "running" could work as a guide / glide , just wax the runner and guide.Admittedly it is because I do not know how to build drawers runners/supports inside the cabinet to accomodate them - though I can look into this as yet another thing to learn...
Those two tables have 1 3/4" legs with a taper below the lower shelf / stretcher.
Designing what people want , before they know what that is , is hard. Those two tables are still on consignment, over a year now
They rub them , they say Wow that's nice , what kind of wood is that , etc , They just don't buy them
Member
Adam,
A number of the suggestions can be combined to give you an aestetically pleasing hall table.
- Tables such as this are not typically very deep. Suggest you think about 20" max.
- Aprons are usually about 3-4 inches without drawers. 5-6 inches with drawers.
- The slimmer table legs would give it a nicer look, perhaps 1 1/2"-2" square. The taper can be full length, but sometimes it is only the last 7-8".
- A top that overhangs 2-3" can be cut or planed with a bevel on the bottom side. This helps draw the eye up towards the top and makes the table look lighter.
- The tenons on the aprons should be 1/3 of the stock thickness. The top and bottom of the tenon should be cut back the same 1/3 dimension. Also, the mortises should be placed nearer the outside edges of the leg to increase the length and the strength of the tenons, rather than centered on the leg.
- There is a book dedicated to tables, I believe it is a Best of Fine Woodworking book, that may provide you with some help.
Good Luck and be sure and show us the finished product!
Kurt Bird
[OP]
Member
I understand - it is amusing. The same clutter shows up on every surface of my house - and when I come home from work I can't find anywhere to throw my crap... so I think this table could help.
Member
Here are a couple of hall tables that I've built. The first one has 1 3/4" legs, and the taper just runs about 6-7" from the floor. I'm not real crazy about the looks of them The width is about 15".
The second one also started with 1 3/4" legs, but I started the taper about 3 1/4" down from the top, just under the apron. They're tapered to 1". Neither of them has drawers.
Looking at the picture of your lumber, if it were me, I'd consider inset drawers, and cut the front apron and the drawer fronts out of one piece, so the grain flows across the entire front apron. I did that on a bedside table I made for my daughter, and I think it looks nice (last picture)
Last edited by Guy Germaine; 01-20-2008 at 6:53 AM.
Member
Actually, I don't see anything in a design thread that is OT when discussing how furniture gets used. It would be a shame to cover up that nice wood.
Now this IS OT: Paul, I can tell why your tables are not selling. It appears nobody can enter the store because they put your table in front of the door! Fix that and they should go fast; nice work.
Member
Adam,
The uncolored diagram of your table is proportionally looking really good. I think it's the lack of color which brings it out and allows me to see just the lines.
I was browsing another forum and came across a similar drawer issue and thought you might be interested in something which could work for you. I copied the location of a pic' which pretty much explains it all.
http://www.woodmangler.com/Dresser/Small%20Drawers.jpg
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