Porter Cable 8529 Router Barely Runs

[Bob Feeser]

I am sorry for stomping on Marks thread about the other model Porter Cable router that is having a problem similar to mine. I have more than one of these PC 8529's. It is 4 1/2 years old, has seen use only a few times, and now when I turn it on, it doesn't move, then slowly starts to move. The longer I leave it running, the faster it gets, not all the way to top speed, I would say about 1/2 way there. After about 5 minutes of running I can make a very light pass on a piece of wood, but it is as if it has very little power. I own more than one of these, and they are all doing the same thing, so I am disheartened. One of them went into a secondary table, that I have never even used. Does anyone know what is wrong with it? Any similar experiences? What was the magic fix?
I seriously only used it a few times. I have several Bosch 1617's, a Makita D handle, Frued 1800, and a Bosch 3 1/2hp that I use more regularly. No problem from any of them, so my electricity is not weak, the shop was compeletely rewired.
Your help/input is greatly appreciated. I noticed Jim mentioned the variable speed circuit board may need to be replaced, in Marks thread. If that is the problem, what do they cost, and how difficult is it to replace them? Is that definitely the problem? Thanks

[Eric Haycraft]

From these guys, the speed controller is 54 bucks:

http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/cgi-b...rtercable/8529

If your 120 is ok, you may want to check the power cord as that could give you problems.

[Jason White]

Could it need new brushes?

Jason

[Bruce Page]

Could it need new brushes?

Jason

That's what I was thinking. Try taking them out and lightly sanding the business end with some 320/400 grit paper. The DC power feed motor on my mill was doing the same exact thing, sanding the glaze off of the brushes fixed it right up.

[Jim O'Dell]

My 8529 did this too. As did the 7529 that it replaced. To check mine, I wired around the VS circuit board and plugged in direct. Works like a champ, but only at full speed, no soft start, and no auto load compensation. I emailed PC to see if they had upgraded the circuit board for this problem, as I probably have less that 2 hours actual running time on mine. (Sounds like your's is about the same) They only said to take it in to an authorized repair center. So I take it that was a "NO" to my question. With so little time on them it shouldn't be the brushes.
Check the sears parts on line. I found the best price there, IIRC about 35.00. Personally, I hate to have to spend the extra money, especially if I'm going to have to do it over and over again. It's a decent little router besides that. I may just keep mine the way it is. I'll only use small bits in it anyway. Let it burn up and replace with something else.
To do the search, find the part number in the schematic, either on line, or if your's cam with one, and google the part number. I had several hits that way, which is how I found out about the Sears price. Jim.

ps. Bob, it is an easy replacement. You'll need some Torx drivers and a crimping tool...could use plyers if need be, and some crimp caps. Or use the elecrtical twist connectors. That should work fine, just don't need the big ones...not much room.

[Bill Wyko]

Sounds like brushes to me too.

[Bob Feeser]

Thanks for the input, I am going to try the brush cleaning first since that is the least expensive. Since it is in a basement shop, some corrosion or a thin film is a possibility. If that is all it is I am going to be jumping up and down. I like using these in tables, they have the above table adjustment feature with a hole in the insert plate, and an adjusting knob that drops down in there. So I am hoping. My other routers are crawl under the table for adjusting.
If it is a circuit board, I think I will take your advice and over ride it, and use as is, especially considering I didn't use one of them other than turning it on when I first got it.
Any additional input is appreciated.

[Jim O'Dell]

Look at this page for the schematic.
http://www.rockler.com/tech/RTD10000208AA.pdf
Part numer shows to be 906889. This also replaces the control in the 7529 which was part # 885421-now obsolete.
from PC, 39.81 + shipping
from E replacement 41.50 + shipping
from tool parts direct 53.08 + shipping
sears parts direct 33.00 + shipping in stock-so it says.
go to: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...Sub+Components
shipping shows to be 10.99. A little steep. But maybe you can order it through the local sear parts/repair place if you have one, and save the shipping. Be worth a try. The others I hadn't checked shipping rate. May be lower total price from one of them. Hope this helps. Jim.

[Bob Feeser]

Jim,
Thanks for the parts follow up. I may wind up needing that. I just had a Wow thought though. I was reading a thread yesterday here at the creek about a separate variable speed switch for routers, that mounts on the side of the router table, so you do not have to go under the table to adjust it. I know that those speed controllers have a statement about not working with variable speed routers. I guess 2 controllers, one on top of the other is not a winning combination, but with your over ride idea, run the wires direct, added to it, one of those variable speed controllers, you would not need to ever go under the table for an adjustment.
Since it already has an above table depth adjustment, and I have the Sears double outlet switch already mounted to the side of the table, turning on the router and shop vac at the same time, now with the variable speed adjuster topside, plus the 8529 has above table bit replacement, I would never see the underside of the table again.
Isn't it funny, in some ways, I am hoping the brushes are not the problem. Ok, just kidding, I hope the brushes are the problem, but if not, the table mount variable speed also concludes the problem of having to replace the same darn defective part again, and again. (As long as the table mount variable speed was reliable)
It was a Wow moment, just thought I would come back and post it. See what you can do when you have people in the know at SMC. If people were smart, everybody should join this forum.
More input is appreciated.

[Jason White]

If they're really worn, you can get replacement brushes at some ACE hardware stores. They're usually in the bins where all the specialty nuts, bolts & screws are.

JW

Thanks for the input, I am going to try the brush cleaning first since that is the least expensive. Since it is in a basement shop, some corrosion or a thin film is a possibility. If that is all it is I am going to be jumping up and down. I like using these in tables, they have the above table adjustment feature with a hole in the insert plate, and an adjusting knob that drops down in there. So I am hoping. My other routers are crawl under the table for adjusting.
If it is a circuit board, I think I will take your advice and over ride it, and use as is, especially considering I didn't use one of them other than turning it on when I first got it.
Any additional input is appreciated.

[Jim O'Dell]

Bob, the external speed control is an option, of course you lose the soft start, and the circuitry that keeps the speed constant under load, but the former should not be a problem in a table mount. The latter is a nice feature. And I hope I'm right remembering that the 8529 has that feature. You might look it up and see...might be a moot point.
I use my 8529 hand held. I have the 7518 for the table in a lift that allows me to change bits above the table, and of course height of the bit. I still have to reach underneath to change speed, but don't have any big bits yet. I'm sure I will some day. Might still have to rig up an old manual choke cable to do it with, though. Jim.

[Curt Harms]

I remember Pat Warner had a problem with an 8529 he was using. It sounds like this is not an uncommon problem. The 7529 was a REAL problem child, it sounds like the 8529 has its issues as well. I have an 8529 that so far has been okay, touch wood. I think the 8529 is out of production for now, I heard once that B&D was bringing it back, I don't know if that's true or not. It doesn't make a lot of sense for B&D to sell the 621 and the 8529. We'll see, I guess.

Curt

[Bob Feeser]

Jim, Once again, your insight and information are greatly appreciated. I didn't think about the soft start feature and the constant speed as well. As you mentioned the soft start is not a problem since they are just in tables, and never used for hand held work.
To be honest with you I was a little disappointed when I first bought these in the power level they have. Rated at 2 hp peak, they seem more like a 1 3/4 with an occassional burst of 2hp. When making raised panel doors when they were new, even though I made multiple passes it couldn't really hold up to the job so well. So I decided to use the Bosch 3 1/2 for that from now on. So my PC 8539's are relegated to lighter work, such as stile and rail stick joinery, etc.
Now with the new problem, they don't even provide enough power for that, so some repairs are warranted, and your ideas will come in handy. It seems crazy that a circuit board would go bad from just sitting, although I guess it is possible.
I try to control moisture in the basement shop by placing a 20" fan in one window at one end, and leaving a window open at the other end. It greatly alleviates the moisture problems, but it is not perfect. I don't see any mildew growing on anything anymore, like it did when the basement was closed during the summer, but the possibility of a little build up during even a brief interruption of the breathing can wreak havoc on critical surfaces, like a brush surface. Since they wouldn't start at all when I first plugged them in, then they gradually started to move, then the longer they moved, the faster they got, although they did not recover completely. That indicates that mildew "could" be the culprit, but then again, I do not know the behavior of a failing speed control circuit. I'm hoping to be able to pull the brushes tomorrow on one, and clean them up, and give it a try. I will be sure to post the results, once I do.
Thanks again to everyone for their input, any other suggestions are welcome as well.

Bob, the external speed control is an option, of course you lose the soft start, and the circuitry that keeps the speed constant under load, but the former should not be a problem in a table mount. The latter is a nice feature. And I hope I'm right remembering that the 8529 has that feature. You might look it up and see...might be a moot point.
I use my 8529 hand held. I have the 7518 for the table in a lift that allows me to change bits above the table, and of course height of the bit. I still have to reach underneath to change speed, but don't have any big bits yet. I'm sure I will some day. Might still have to rig up an old manual choke cable to do it with, though. Jim.

[Jim O'Dell]

Bob, my 8529 went from working great one time, to 2 months later, started fine, but turning the speed up to about 3 1/2, it shut down. Go back under that mark, it worked fine. I could turn it down further, but not higher. I worked around that making shallower passes building my blast gates (melamine coated particle board). Then the next time I went to use it, again probably another couple months, it wouldn't turn on at any speed. My shop doesn't seem especially damp. It is a detached building. I have had a couple leaks in the roof that were repaired in '07. But they were drips, not floods. It didn't hurt my 7518, and it has a similar speed control. So I don't know if moisture is a problem for them or not. I'm hesitant to put 45 or 50 bucks in a router I only paid 160 for to begin with. Especially when PC can't/won't tell me if it is a problem that has been fixed or not. That's why I say I may use it 'til it dies, then replace it. If the free router that was being offered by Hitachi as a rebate for purchasing their 10" SCMS was a plunge unit, I'd have my replacement already. But, that's another story. Jim..