Do you really have a guard on your table saw?

[Rob Bodenschatz]

I use mine.

[Steve Rowe]

Absolutely yes.

[Bob Feeser]

I have to agree with Bob G. "I feel a lot of mishaps / accidents fall into 2 groups; carelessness and improperly tuned and adjusted machines. I always take the time to properly tune and adjust all of my stationary machines. While the user has full control over inattention, a machine that's not properly aligned and adjusted is an accident waiting to happen."

In addition another critical factor is using an ingenious push stick. More about that in a minute. Pertaining to the post question about using a blade guard...

My PM66 came with a blade guard that will not work with an Incra TSIII-32 fence. So it is still in the wraps. I bought Board Buddies, which are round rubber rollers that only will roll one way to prevent the wood from moving backwards, and most importantly keep the board trapped between the fence and the blade FLAT on the table. I have not installed them, but plan to in the future.

Norm Abrams does not use a guard, claiming, "We do it so the camera can see the cut, but it is a personal decision"

I had a kickback from my old Sears contractors saw, then realized that the table is bowed in the center; it sags front to back. So that results in longer boards lifting off of the table in the center. The kickback was the result of the back end of the cut piece lifted slightly, then the blade contact edge, forced the workpiece down toward the table, with the fence guard edge of the workpiece stayed lifted, and that resulted in a twisted piece of wood. It tilted down, resulting in a wider workpiece dimension between fence and blade, and the blade was not going to put up with that. The piece fired back on my 1hp saw, slamming into my stomach. Fortunately it was a flat ended piece, otherwise I would have been impaled. As it was it created a bruise, that took a while to heal, and a small amount of blood was on the surface. I learned about staying clear of behind the workpiece, and keep the exiting end of the board flat on the table.

End result: I always use a push stick that has a long tail on it, so it is easy to control the workpiece as it exits the mid point of the blade. Also it has a little grip to it so I can place a little bit of effort at a 45 degree angle toward the fence. That has a double purpose, it keeps the workpiece tight to the fence, and if a slip or mistake should happen, my exerted pressure is pushing toward the fence, and not toward the blade. It takes a special push stick to be able to do that. One with a rubber type sticky on the front. Plus if you push stick is not tall enough, you are pushing toward the blade.

So I do not use one like this because it has zero control on the back end of the workpiece and is slick to the workpiece which creates a sliding possible problem.

I highly highly highly recommend something I don't want to use a table saw without. That is the "Vermont American Push Shoe" which gives you complete control with a saw style handle.
Notice how high this sits off of the table. That way your hand has plenty of clearance above the blade. If you slip you clear the blade.
Notice the red plastic/rubber type knob toward the front. That is sticky, which enables you to get a grip on the workpiece, that is what enables me to exert a little force at a 45 degree angle toward the fence, while I am pushing the workpiece through. (Something impossible to do with the tan colored push stick)
Also notice that with this kind of enclosed handle, you have total control of the angle of exertion, something impossible to do with a round push stick.
It is thin enough to cut all but the tiniest pieces of wood, yet wide enough to get a good grip.
If you Google it you can shop for the best price on it. It is clearly an inexpensive investment, and one of the best functionality award winners. Most importantly it prevents me from ever reaching over the blade, and keeping the workpiece down on the table as it leaves the back end of the blade, which is spinning upwards and trying to lift the workpiece from off of the table. That is where the kickbacks happen.
I can not emphasize enough what a difference in control this push "shoe" makes. I tried to explain it using words, but once you use it and see the total engineering including the sticky red knob toward the front, you will instantly know the difference.

[Carl Hill]

Absolutely not. I think another interesting question would be; How may accidents happen with the guard on or with the guard off? I just feel much safer being able to see the blade. But I sure understand the guard on argument also. Not trying to start a fight, just really curious what the actual numbers would be.

Carl

[Don Bullock]

I can say that prior to having the saw I have now I rarely used the guard because the splitter on my Craftsman was never lined up right. Wood would always get hung up on it. The guard was unsafe.

Now, my guard is on for every cut unless it is one where the guard/riving knife will get in the way, like the tenion jig cuts I recently made. On my saw (SawStop) the guard is very easy to remove and replace. It takes very little time. The riving knife, unlike many guards with splitters, lines up perfectly with the blade so it doesn't get in the way either.

[Bob Stegemann]

Guard is always on unless the cut won't permit it. It's rule #1 start with ten end with ten.

[Cary Falk]

I grew up never using a guard or splitter. The guards always seemed to get hung up on the wood and caused bigger problems. I restored a Unisaw that didn't come with a guard or splitter. I bought the snap in splitter from Beismeyer and love it. I use it regularly but not all the time. I don't think I will ever use a guard because I have never found one that does not get in the way. I am 37 and have been using a table saw as long as I can remember. I have never had a close call. I am always carefull. I do feel safer with the splitter.

[William Nimmo]

NEVER have, NEVER will.
Safety is important, hence I bought a Saw stop. Never plan on tripping the brake either.
Riving knife is great.
But No guard

[Brian Dormer]

Nope - it's still in the plastic wrap it was in when I purchased the saw a couple years ago. Removed the guard on the saw before that (my first TS) after only a brief trial. I have an MJ splitter waiting for installation - but so far haven't seen a burning need. I've looked at the shark guard and.... well, frankly I just don't see the need. My SOP is to keep my fingers at least 3-4 inches from the blade at all times - That means push sticks and Grrripers are always kept handy. And I keep the rip fence to blade aligned to less than .001" deviation to minimize the chance for kickback.

NYW/Norm did his "Table Saw 101" last season - he was a little vague as to why he doesn't use a guard (neither does Tom Silva) - but he did make a statement about "photographic clarity" and said that some woodworkers like to "clearly see where the blade meets the wood". He ended with "it's a personal choice".

[Rob Blaustein]

Excalibur overarm guard when possible. Pivots away easily when not. Aside from the protection from the blade, I like the added dust collection that an overarm blade affords.

[Phil Harding]

I tossed the OEM guard that came with my Grizzly cabinet saw. Replaced it with a Shark Guard on a overhead boom. When I can't use the Sharl Guard (like for ripping narrow pieces) then I always use a pair of GRRR-rippers from MicroJig. I also use the MicroJig splitter - not the best but certainly better than no splitter at all.

-- Phil

[Frank Orzehoski]

I admit it. My table saw guard is hanging on the wall. It has been there for a long time.
How about all of you?

Scott

No I do not use one. I bought a new Grizzly last summer and was going to put it on until I purchased a Grrper push block. When doing large rip's, ie plywood I am careful where my hands are. At a local wood working school I attended there were no guards on the saws.

[CPeter James]

Yes I do. This is a repost of a photo from another thread and shows the guard in place where it stays neigh on 100% of the time. I also use a splitter that is .005" thicker than the blade kerf. For a standard 1/8" blade the splitter is .130". This really works good for me. The splitter is mounted to a stud on the trunion and tilts with the blade. It is mounted very close the the back of the blade.

CPeter

The blade guard. Note the splitter in place.


The splitter

[Al Willits]

When I ran the drag bike I probably made well over 2000 passes and never dumped the bike once, but I wore full leathers and a very expensive helmet, why...just because $hit happens.

I run the Shark guard when ever possible, its clear plastic material makes it easy to see what the blade is doing, and it only takes less than a minute to install or remove if need be, I also run the anti kick back rollers when I can.

Woodworking is a hobby for me, and losing a finger or worse just because it takes a little longer to be safer, just isn't worth it for me.

Al

[Robert Waddell]

I posted before regarding using a guard but just wanted to encourge everyone to use a "shoe" type push stick like the one Bob F. mentioned a few post back. The long plastic or wood stick type will get you hurt.
Rob