Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 22 of 22

Thread: Watco Danish Oil

  1. #16
    I found some intructions from some website that are different from the can and I am trying them. So far so good.

    You put on a lot and let it soak in making sure the wood stays wet. Then repeat once two days later. Two days after than wet sand it with 500 grit, which is where I am at right now. THen repeat at a higher grit after two days drying time, and again if you want.
    The wet sand at 500 does seem to make it an even smoother baby bottom feel. I will try at 600 tomorrow. There are some very large poers that are hard to fill so hopefully the slurry can leave a lasting filler.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    26

    Wipe it off before it gets dry..

    Having used Watco Danish oil on a lot of stuff, I will second what others say: wipe the excess off after a few minutes. Letting it dry gives a gummy mess. And its a somewhat cured gummy mess - meaning you will have to physically remove it by sanding, strip, etc.

    And on open pore stuff like red oak - come back an hour or so after you wipe. There will likely be bleed-up-out little blobs from the pores. Wipe them NOW. Don't let them dry, either. (It may be easier to 'wipe' at this point using 0000 steel wool..)

    Look again for blobs a few hours later, and again after that. Don't let it sit 24hrs w/o looking - or you may be surprised.

    Some try to control the bleeding by wet sanding the excess Watco just before wiping it off - trying to create a slurry that fills the pores. Haven't tried that yet - so don't know.

    As always - test your 'finishing schedule' on similar scrap first.

    Good Luck!
    Chris
    Last edited by Chris Hudson42; 04-01-2010 at 8:55 AM. Reason: typo

  3. #18
    Ok I wet sanded it till 600 grit and it is baby butt smooth. Not totally filled because the whole table is endgrain so none seaped out but I think it is enough. Even coat and everything.

    Im undecided as to whether to put a wax on top of it.

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Uchida View Post
    Ok I wet sanded it till 600 grit and it is baby butt smooth. Not totally filled because the whole table is endgrain so none seaped out but I think it is enough. Even coat and everything.

    Im undecided as to whether to put a wax on top of it.
    Matt - How about a picture?

    I just finished a single coat on this outdoor porch bench, and am trying to decide what to do next. My tentative plan is to just move the final stage: the marine varnish finish--Sikkens Cetol Marine Light. I had hoped to spray it, but the Sikkens can says not to thin.... so I might just brush on.

    by the way, the bench is white oak and the floor of the case is Poplar... Poplar really soaks it up--nothing to wipe off after five minutes.




    I am hoping to try something a little different with this bed... I don't need the varnish, so perhaps finish with an amber shellac or just a few separate coats of the danish oil.


  5. #20
    Here is a link to a threat with pictures of my two recent projects

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=137383

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Travelers Rest, SC
    Posts
    16
    I've used Watco Danish oil for years and have been very pleased. I use it on red oak, mahogany, about any wood I use, and just about any project except a table top that will really get punished. I do the first coat by slopping on everything the wood will take, let it stand 15 minutes, put on some more and let it stand 15 minutes, then try to wipe it all off. As an earlier post said, keep looking at it and rubbing it off every hour or two. The next day I use a mixture of 50% poly and 50% Watco, usually using 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Put it on thick, build up a little slurry, let it stand 15 minutes and then do your best to wipe it off. Usually the next day I'll wipe it on with a low fuzz rag, let it stand a few minutes then wipe it off. Usually 3 or 4 coats gets you the sheen you want. Then wait until it's really dry, at least a month, then apply Trewax with a 0000 steel wool pad, and rub it all off as soon as it dries. You can rewax a year or 5 years later, whatever it needs. It's smooth, and stands up well, for me, anyway!

    It's not how you start, it's how you finish!

  7. #22
    There's no finish that will meet all needs, but for me I'd say that Watco covers everything where you don't need a film finish or super durability. It's also easy to renew.
    Please consider becoming a contributing member of Sawmill Creek.
    The cost is minimal and the benefits are real. Donate

Similar Threads

  1. Danish Oil Poly Blend on Cherry????
    By Jeff Norri in forum Project Finishing
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 11-09-2007, 3:03 AM
  2. Minwax Antique Oil v. Watco
    By Roger Bell in forum Turner's Forum
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 06-21-2007, 5:51 PM
  3. Tung Oil v. Teak Oil v. Danish Oil - Need Help
    By Lance Sleeper in forum Project Finishing
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 05-24-2007, 8:58 AM
  4. Watco Danish vs. Minwax Antique
    By Frank Kobilsek in forum Turner's Forum
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 02-21-2007, 6:06 PM
  5. White haze on birch ply finished with Watco
    By James Carmichael in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 10-02-2004, 6:56 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •