Anyone build their own cnc?

[aaron hero]

I am building a small 3 axis cnc router and I am looking for ideas.
I will be using linear bearings running on aluminum angle for all three axis.
I have all the bearings and aluminum, just deciding what material to build the machine out of, MDF, aluminum, plastic. any other suggetions?
Aaron

[Dave Carpentier]

I constructed a MDF based CNC router about a year ago. You can view it at http://cnc.hobby-site.com. Check out CNCZone at http://www.cnczone.com for lots of information on all aspects of CNC. Good luck on your build!
BTW, this is my first post here at Sawcreek!

[Dennis Ford]

Hi Aaron;
I built one a little over one year ago. It used roller skate bearings running on aluminum channel and skate bearings running on some heavy chromed steel tube. This was material I had already. I later replaced the skate bearings and aluminum channel with delrin plastic sliding on stainless tubing. The skate bearings gave me more speed but were not as rigid (this was mostly due to mounting issues). My suggestion is to build the machine from the most rigid material that you can cut accurately (depends on your tooling and skills).

I am building a small 3 axis cnc router and I am looking for ideas.
I will be using linear bearings running on aluminum angle for all three axis.
I have all the bearings and aluminum, just deciding what material to build the machine out of, MDF, aluminum, plastic. any other suggetions?
Aaron

[Steve knight]

I only built my table I bought the shopbot. but this may give you idea's.
http://s154.photobucket.com/albums/s...ighttoolworks/

[aaron hero]

I got started today, I had a sheet of 3/4 particle board so I decided to use it,
It is pretty smooth moving, no play at all.
I will build a larger one if this one works out. Aaron
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...C1stday001.jpg

[Greg Cuetara]

If you build a smaller one built check out Joe's 2006 Model over at the cnczone. All the plans are free and if you have one already it makes it much easier to cut all the pieces. It has a 2'x4' bed and he is currently working on a newer model which is basically the same as the shopbot (it has a 4'x4' bed) but at around 1/5th the price. I have found the electronics, computer, software are the most expensive pieces so far. I have yet to start my build but hopefully soon. Good Luck.
Greg

[Mike Golka]

I built mine about 3 years ago. It is all steel construction and uses rollerblade bearings. The effective cuting surface is 24" x 36". I made my own drivers based on a plan I found on the net. It runs the stepper motors in bipolar mode, more torque that way. My motors are too small for the size of machine and leadscrew design so speeds are limited to around 30 IPM for consistent results without lost steps.

[Bernhard Lampert]

I have started to build a CNC router:
4'x8' cutting area, open loop stepper motors controlled by Mach3,
Looked for a long time for a workable and affordable design. Imho, there are only 2 designs out there that are actually proven and work:
-MechMate (mechmate.com); design based loosely on the Shopbot, site allows free download of plans after registring, has a very good forum.
-MadVac (http://oneoceankayaks.com/madvac/mad...objectiveanch)
Excellent blog of building a phenomenal machine. Machine uses ball screws and linear bearings (expensive!).
Both sites give excellent and detailed advise. A third source is cnczone.com
My router built will be similar to the madvac, but with rack and pinion drive and either Igus drylin or Vee-wheel bearings (such as the Mechmate) for axes movement.

Conceptually, it is rather straightforward to build. My main concerns are:
-sourcing of suitable rails for axis movement
-sourcing or manufacturing of absolutely straight and true support for the rails
-limited background in electronics

I have a pretty well equipped shop for metal working (plasma, mig, stick, band, abrasive-, cut-off saws, lathe, mill, etc) so it should be possible. And if it doesn't work out.... scrap metal prices are at an all time high!

Cheers,
Bernhard

.

[Richard McMahon]

Hi Bernard,
Don't worry too much about your limited knowledge in electronics as most of the controllers now are just about plug and play. I like the Xylotex boards and the gecko drives. Just think that all you really need is a transformer then a bridge rectifier then a large capacitor then a fuse then the drive. From the computer you have a parallel cable connected to a breakout board then to the drives. From the drives to the motors with a shielded cable.
My laser uses flat 4 core cable to the steppers but is not shielded and works fine (but they aren't running next to a 240 volt cable for a router).
I like the CNC4PC.com C10 breakout board as it is very cheap and works well, also.
Once you put it all together, just check all the wiring a second time then off you go. It really is relatively easy if you can solder and have a multimeter .
I hope your build goes well.
I used acme screws with polyacetal nuts for my first build and ball screws for my second build and belt drive for my 3rd build and would have to say for a router, next time I make one, it will be with V guides and belt drive. SO much easier and no worries of contamination and is just as accurate and the rapids are a lot faster too.
The worst drive was the ball screws as they contaminated way too easily and were much harder to set up due to the needed accuracy in alignment. I will pull that machine down one day and drive it with belts. A lot less headaches and I can get on with what I like doing most......making sawdust and smoke :-)
best wishes
Richard.

[Bernhard Lampert]

Hi Bernard,
Don't worry too much about your limited knowledge in electronics as most of the controllers now are just about plug and play. I like the Xylotex boards and the gecko drives. Just think that all you really need is a transformer then a bridge rectifier then a large capacitor then a fuse then the drive. From the computer you have a parallel cable connected to a breakout board then to the drives. From the drives to the motors with a shielded cable.
My laser uses flat 4 core cable to the steppers but is not shielded and works fine (but they aren't running next to a 240 volt cable for a router).
I like the CNC4PC.com C10 breakout board as it is very cheap and works well, also.
Once you put it all together, just check all the wiring a second time then off you go. It really is relatively easy if you can solder and have a multimeter .
I hope your build goes well.
I used acme screws with polyacetal nuts for my first build and ball screws for my second build and belt drive for my 3rd build and would have to say for a router, next time I make one, it will be with V guides and belt drive. SO much easier and no worries of contamination and is just as accurate and the rapids are a lot faster too.
The worst drive was the ball screws as they contaminated way too easily and were much harder to set up due to the needed accuracy in alignment. I will pull that machine down one day and drive it with belts. A lot less headaches and I can get on with what I like doing most......making sawdust and smoke :-)
best wishes
Richard.

Richard,

Thanks for the 'heads -up'. Good to know that there are othe r people out there that had successfully build a router.
I plan to use rack and pinion to drive the axis: inexpensive, proven concept, low backlash and suitable for dusty environment. As for linear ways, I am thinking about using IGUS Drylin ways. It is a pretty neat concept and they are quite affordable. I also found a local grinding shop that can grind the support beams for the axis up to 11' long!
Back to the electronics, starting to read Horowitz and Hill, The Art of Electronics. After being out of school for 20+ years, it is pretty hard to read a textbook. I also stumbled on series of 3 excellent books that describe in detail the design, build and operation of a CNC router.

You don't happen to live in North Carolina or Virginia by any chance? I would love to see your creations. To take an actual look at a machine is vastly more informative that reading all the books.

Cheers,
Bernhard

[Ron Johnson]

I made my 1st one about 5 months ago. On my 2nd one a month ago. Want to sell the 1st one when the new one is completed. I used Aluminum & Tooling Plastics. I'll insert a pic. Its a 4 axis with 495 oz-in stepper motors. Its so strong that it will snap a 1/4" carbite bit if you forget to turn the router on. How dumb can I be. I use it for wood projects, but it does cut Aluminum quite well. Anyone interested in it email me. Spokane area only.

Ron

[Dennis Parrott]

Hi guys,

My first post here at SMC!

I just finished building a CNC router for my woodworking shop. I've spent the last year gathering information and started construction about three months ago. I welded the table frame and gantry frame from 2 x 2 mild steel tubing and used the skate bearing method for the x-axis. The y and z axis used sealed linear bearings. All three run on precision 5/8" drill rod. Most of the support structure - gantry, motor mounts, etc. are milled from 6061 aluminum of varying thicknesses. I had a manual milling machine that I converted to CNC about a year ago and used that to make the parts for the CNC router. The working envelope is fairly small - about 21" x 23" and uses a Porter Cable 3-1/4 hp router for the spindle. I built my own controller using a Keling power supply, Campbell break-out board and Gecko 203v drivers. All are housed in an old computer case with a large fan to keep everything cool. Kudos to CNC Zone for all the great info posted there. You can't go wrong by learning everything you can from that site. I'll echo the comments from others here who say that if you're going to build a CNC, make it from the strongest material your budget will allow - you won't regret it. All in all, I've probably got $2,500.00 invested in mine but it will hopefully last for many years! Good luck with yours!

Dennis

P.S. I can post pics if anyone is interested.

[Bernhard Lampert]

Hi guys,

My first post here at SMC!

I just finished building a CNC router for my woodworking shop. I've spent the last year gathering information and started construction about three months ago. I welded the table frame and gantry frame from 2 x 2 mild steel tubing and used the skate bearing method for the x-axis. The y and z axis used sealed linear bearings. All three run on precision 5/8" drill rod. Most of the support structure - gantry, motor mounts, etc. are milled from 6061 aluminum of varying thicknesses. I had a manual milling machine that I converted to CNC about a year ago and used that to make the parts for the CNC router. The working envelope is fairly small - about 21" x 23" and uses a Porter Cable 3-1/4 hp router for the spindle. I built my own controller using a Keling power supply, Campbell break-out board and Gecko 203v drivers. All are housed in an old computer case with a large fan to keep everything cool. Kudos to CNC Zone for all the great info posted there. You can't go wrong by learning everything you can from that site. I'll echo the comments from others here who say that if you're going to build a CNC, make it from the strongest material your budget will allow - you won't regret it. All in all, I've probably got $2,500.00 invested in mine but it will hopefully last for many years! Good luck with yours!

Dennis

P.S. I can post pics if anyone is interested.

Dennis,
YES, I like to see some pics. Also, may I contact you via pm to get some info on the manual mill conversion? I have a Webb 2VH mill (brigdeport clone) that I like to convert primarily to make the parts for cnc router.
BTW Gecko has their 203V drivers on sale from Dec-15.

Cheers,
Bernhard

[Robert Wachala]

Hello everyone,

I was just curious on the costs of building your own CNC. I've seen a couple on youtube but I never see anyone mention costs. The actual table looks fairly easy to setup but I would assume the costs would really come in with software and interface needed for the computer/router.

[Ron Johnson]

A complete CNC machine with software can cost from $1000.00 to whatever you can afford.

I have 2 36" x 24" 4 axis machines I built for $1200.00 each.

Ron