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Thread: piping an air compressor

  1. #46
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Benton,AR
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    65
    Hey Jim we're cool, I appreciate you chiming in. I had mentioned
    his eq. in an earlier post-probably should have referred to it. I'm
    really trying to help him out here but his air system is at the point
    where the pieces dictate the answers-you know .
    LeeB--

    Think outside the box,
    the light's much brighter.

  2. #47
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    Oct 2007
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    Benton,AR
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    Quote Originally Posted by dale rex View Post
    Leland.................Im getting an Ingersol Rand 3 HP 60 gal compressor, model# SS3L3. I dont really know all the tech specs offhand for this compressor, but I think it puts out 11 cfm @90 psi.
    All right NOW were 'bout there. If I remember right, this is an upright,
    with twin cylinders-(2-stage T-30 ) correct ? Probably yellow with black
    heads ?-- Also , what tools are you going to run with it ?
    LeeB--

    Think outside the box,
    the light's much brighter.

  3. #48
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Quote Originally Posted by dale rex View Post
    Leland.................Im getting an Ingersol Rand 3 HP 60 gal compressor, model# SS3L3. I dont really know all the tech specs offhand for this compressor, but I think it puts out 11 cfm @90 psi.
    Dale, I own the same compressor. It's a fine machine. Congratulations!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Benton,AR
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    65
    O.K. I found it. Specs are 135 PSI max, 80/20 duty cycle--Not a T-30
    My data doesn't give pressure switch data, but I expect its 90/125
    non-adjustable or adjustable to , <135PSI kickout with 135PSI relief.
    All this means is that your max shop pressure will be slightly less than
    135PSI out of the tank. Now all you have to do is look at what tools
    you wish to use and their max pressure rating. You will need one reg,
    located near reservoir outlet-but convenient, in order to set the press.
    for that particular tool. Thats prob. going to be around 120 or so for
    nailers etc.-but you need to check-they are different. Its likely this
    one reg. will handle most of them-Here is wher personal preferrence
    comes in .You may want a dedicated drop for a paint sprayer as an
    example with its own regulator.--As Jim mentioned earlier, be certain
    you are sending correct pressure to each tool.---Every drop down-
    stream of the regulator will see regulated pressure--. You should be
    ready for something FUN now---good luck
    LeeB--

    Think outside the box,
    the light's much brighter.

  5. #50
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Benton,AR
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Dale, I own the same compressor. It's a fine machine. Congratulations!
    Hey Jim, I was typing during your post-yes I's a good unit . Can you tell
    Dale whether to pressure switch is adjustable or fixed at what kick-in/out?
    LeeB--

    Think outside the box,
    the light's much brighter.

  6. #51
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Augusta, GA
    Posts
    32

    Ingersoll Rand SS3L3

    This is a single stage compressor although is has two heads. Each one compresses from 0psig up to 135psig in one stroke.

    The pressure switch is crappy from the start. I would replace with a SquareD switch from Grainger. The stock switch is not adjustable. The Square D is adjustable, plus the pressure band can be adjusted as well.

    Otherwise, this is a great compressor for a shop. I have one coming home next week as well. I will be replacing the pressure switch and I'll will post back with the stock # from Grainger.

    Best Regards,

    Maury

  7. #52
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Augusta, GA
    Posts
    32

    PVC explosion pictures

    Just came across these looking through some old pictures. These are a couple of PVC air lines that exploded in a shop I visited. They had already repaired the lines with new PVC. Luckily, no one was near them when they blew......

    This is a reminder that it is not "if it happens", but "when it happens".
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #53
    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Page View Post
    Dale, most industrial installations run black pipe. That said, I ran “L” grade copper pipe several years ago and haven’t had a problem. I feel the copper is much better than PVC. It installs easily and is relatively inexpensive and it is rust free.

    Lelend, your font choice is very difficult for me to read.
    I've seen iron or steel pipe in some places and copper in others but lately because of the increased cost of copper, steel seems to be what company's are using.

    I have copper throughout my shop. I have 4 drops, a tank drain, a moisture filter right after the tank that feeds into a regulator and an additional moisture filter after the regulator.

    Unless you're equipped with pipe threading tools sweating copper will be the best choice and will install a lot quicker.

    Bob

  9. #54
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Mpls, Minn
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    2,882
    """""
    Unless you're equipped with pipe threading tools sweating copper will be the best choice and will install a lot quicker.
    """""""""

    Maybe not, I piped my system using pre threaded pipe, I had 6 or 7 drops and did just fine.

    Considering pipe comes in 1/2" lenghts pre threaded I'd think that would be close enough for most anybody.
    Also many hardware stores will thread pipe free or at a low cost, just buy a few extra coupling and you can make almost any lenght.

    Al
    Remember our vets, they need our help, just like they helped us.

  10. #55
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Benton,AR
    Posts
    65
    Dale,one last thought before I blast out of here. The I-R seems to be
    popular--both Jim Becker & Maury Saugus have one. I have no direct
    exp. with the SS3, but have with I-R and they have always made very
    reliable industrial units and the folks at I-R have been straightforward
    with answers. I expect that the manual is also, but here are a couple
    of tips. Do not mount the unit rigidly to the floor. Use isolation mts. or
    even wood would prevent vibration. Connect the 3/8 FNPT(tank) to your
    new air line with a flexible link of some sort. Your main filter is next and
    if space permits install it some distance from tank--this may be not
    possible, but this gives some "cool down" space for the air to leave the
    vapor stage , thereby allowing the filter to do a better job. Next in line
    are regulators which we've beat to a pulp, then a lubricator, if you choose
    to use one-I prefer not, as I have said, but in a wood shop I would tie-in
    your blow gun ahead of any lubricator to prevent any possibility of oil
    mist going where you don't want it. And FINALLY--wheeew--you'l want
    some quick-connects for tools. Stay away from cheapees and potential
    leaks. One way to tell is to look down into the coupler, silde the sleeve,
    you'll see 3 or more balls which latch the nipple. Buy those with 4 or
    more, they are far less likely to leak in service.---OK, pop quiz Monday.
    LeeB--

    Think outside the box,
    the light's much brighter.

  11. #56
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Mpls, Minn
    Posts
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    If you do any painting or use air to clean off anything that you don't want oil on, do NOT use a in line luber, I don't care what you do, your gonna end up with oil coming out your paint gun...I guarantee it.

    Been doing this air thing since about 1965 and have yet to see a luber work on a air system that needs none oiled air.

    Much better to get a can of Marvel Mystery oil for air tools, and put a few drops in the tool as needed.

    imho....maybe not so humble on this one....

    Al
    Remember our vets, they need our help, just like they helped us.

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