Different way of doing the North Bridge

[Scott Perry]

Ok, even though my photo skills have not improved....this engraving I think is better than my mirror....whadya think?

I painted a piece of glass with white paint....let her dry...
engraved photo (after photograved)...spray painted black and wha-la.

Also no banding in this one. My rep. said it is caused by a cold tube. I needed to warm it up by rastering a box out of focus (optional, this way I do not waste materials) for about 15 minutes. I did an it worked. But it could be because I ran this at 53 speed/100 power. The mirror I did earlier I ran at 23 speed/100 power twice. I am not totally convinced. I will try it again later.

[Frank Corker]

Now that, is good!

[Mike Null]

Very good! How does it look to you - up close and personal? Your picture looks like you may have found a marketable process.

Do you think using other colors like beige and sepia would produce an antique look?

[Jim Good]

Scott,

I reiterate what Mike said! Your North Bridge would look really nice framed up, too! I'm going to ask a silly question but I'm assuming you painted the back of the glass white, reverse engraved, and then painted the back black. Right!?! Just wanted to verify what may be the obvious for others!

Thanks!

Jim

[Niklas Bjornestal]

Do you just engrave through the paint? or do you also engrave the glass?

[Darren Null]

That is excellent.

[Scott Perry]

Thanks everyone. I did paint the back white--engraved through the white paint--painted it black. I think it will look good in a variety of colors. I plan to try different colors.

Now has anyone been able to prove what my rep said--warming up laser?

[Barb Macdonald]

Is due to alignment issues. Have you tried bottom-up engraving, it really helped me with larger letters. Since we had the tube replaced, we've had no issues with slow to start burns.
good luck
Barb
epilog legend ext 60w

[Scott Perry]

Is due to alignment issues. Have you tried bottom-up engraving, it really helped me with larger letters. Since we had the tube replaced, we've had no issues with slow to start burns.
good luck
Barb
epilog legend ext 60w

Both were done bottom up. I have not has any issues with any other material. I am still not convinced it has to warm up. It could just be my settings. I did this one at 53/100/250 and the mirror at 23/100/250.

[James & Zelma Litzmann]

Scott,

The photo is absolutely beautiful. You did great! Congratulations!

[Tom Bull]

What did you paint the glass with? It is really hard to get "normal" paint to bond to the surface of glass long term. Tends to flake off with expansion of glass. We have had reasonably good success by using etched glass to paint. It is available from most glass shops, though rather pricey compared to regular glass. Ask for satin etch. Have not tried engraving paint over satin etch. Will give it a go first chance.

[Scott Perry]

I used Krylon. I plan to seal it with something to avoid the flaking. Not sure what yet.

[Darren Null]

How about using that technique in perspex, using different colours to vary the burn depth slightly- might give an awesome 3D-ish effect.

Incidentally, my banding problems were probably due to alignment problems. When I replaced the laser after repairing it, the beam was massively misaligned (to the extent that the beam missed the exit hole on the head....luckily I noticed).

[Scott Perry]

How about using that technique in perspex, using different colours to vary the burn depth slightly- might give an awesome 3D-ish effect.

Incidentally, my banding problems were probably due to alignment problems. When I replaced the laser after repairing it, the beam was massively misaligned (to the extent that the beam missed the exit hole on the head....luckily I noticed).

Darren, I am not sure how that would work on varying the depth because I can't get any depth in glass unless I sandcarve it.

[Darren Null]

Same technique. Acrylic material.