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Thread: Acrylic Engraving/Cutting: What does 600 vd 1200 DPI do?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Elkridge, MD
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    42

    Acrylic Engraving/Cutting: What does 600 vd 1200 DPI do?

    Hi again most helpful folks . . .

    Having a great time with the laser!

    On Acrylic: What does changing 600DPI vs 1200DPI do to engraving?

    I'm noticing some shoulder on the engraving.
    Any way to minimize that?

    Also, would you recommend say 2 passes at higher power or 3 passes at slightly lower power?
    (e.g. 3 passes of 18/100 vs 2 passes of 10/100) - not they get about
    the same depth. . .

    Thanks,

    Gary
    -----------------------
    Gary
    Elkridge, MD
    New owner . . .

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    Sammamish, WA
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    On the Rowmark type material with a lot of large areas engraved 600 dpi can actually cause the material to warp from the heat. The density of the firing of dots will make it go deeper but also heat it more.

    Unless you have a specific requirement for depth, for paint fill,
    making a part, or perhaps doing a wood veneer inlay job, you should not have to make more than one pass. That doubles the run time. 400-600 dpi should still be enough.

    BTW I rarely go over 400 dpi on anything. I have gone to 600 on a few photo jobs on anodized aluminum but at lower power. I have never used 1200 dpi except once to experiment. Unless your artwork is at least 1200 dpi it's not going to look any better anyway.



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

  3. #3
    Gary

    I never use more than 500 dpi for plastics. In fact, the only place I use 1000 dpi is when I'm trying to get additional contrast on light woods.

    If you're trying to remove the 1/16" you mentioned in a previous post several passes will be required.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Elkridge, MD
    Posts
    42
    Thanks guys. Right now I'm at Speed 18, Power 100, 3 passes and get the right amount removed. I determined that I need to etch about 0.05 wider than needed on the outside edges. Then, I pull the vector in about 0.05 from the edge for the final cut, as if I just used the outside, I hit the very edge again, and some melting occurred, and and extra cut was necessary.

    There is some shouldering on the edge of the center (un-rastered part) that occurs, but seems ok for now.

    The 1200 DPI would then go deeper on a vector cut, but cause more melting? I'm curious about the final cut and whether 1200 DPI would be good.
    Also, on rastering, if I should go down to 400 DPI.

    Thanks to you guys on your replies!!!!

    Gary
    -----------------------
    Gary
    Elkridge, MD
    New owner . . .

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Sammamish, WA
    Posts
    7,630
    Gary,

    Just give it a try, experimentation often will get better results than listening to someone with a different machine. I use 600 dpi when cutting acrylic for a smooth flame polished look to the edges.

    I definitely would suggest 400 dpi for the rastoring.

    As a rule, use the least power, highest speed, and lowest dpi that will do the job, in order to save time (time is money), eliminate excess melting, and warping of the material from the heat.



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

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