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Thread: Applying Cermark: Thickness, Consistency, Too Thick?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Elkridge, MD
    Posts
    42

    Applying Cermark: Thickness, Consistency, Too Thick?

    Hi folks,

    I used some Cermark for the first time yesterday - diluted about 1:1 with denatured alcohol.

    Can it be too thick?
    Is there a guide for applying this consistently?
    Do you think spraying is the best method?

    I applied to stainless steel and it looked incredible. It's fantastic.

    However, on Aluminum, it didn't adhere very well. I'm concerned that aluminum is a better heat sink and might adversely affect application. Or maybe I applied it too thick?

    Any advice or thoughts on this?
    Maybe pointers to articles, etc.?

    Thanks,

    Gary
    -----------------------
    Gary
    Elkridge, MD
    New owner . . .

  2. Cermark is best sprayed on very thin.Thinner than you would think. I can see the metal below the Cermark when applied. For aluminum it will work but you have to slow down the laser. Aluminum will "soak" up the heat better than stainless. You have to compensate for this.

    Hope this helps,
    Wil
    Epilog EXT36 60w, Corel 12, Adobe CS3, ArtCAM Pro 2010, Techno LC4896

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Sammamish, WA
    Posts
    7,630
    I agree with Will, and I find an airbrush to be the best way to apply it.



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Sierra Foothills
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    247
    I've had many replies on this topic in the past from this forum, this place is great! I've diluted and diluted, and used a spray on method as well. Just enough to get a nice even opaque coat.

    As far as aluminum, it's not come out as nice as the stainless does. I've actually had better luck, running the laser first on raw aluminum, then using a nice paint brush, and brushing on a thin layer of cermark, then run the laser again. I usually have taped down the item so when I paint on the aluminum I don't move the object.
    ULS V-Class 50 Watt, Corel x3, AutoCAD LT '02, NEWBIE!

  5. #5
    Gary

    This has come up many times. If you do a search on Cermark/Thermark
    you'll turn up quite a bit of info.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Corvallis, Oregon
    Posts
    443
    Quote Originally Posted by Tracey Bakewell View Post

    As far as aluminum, it's not come out as nice as the stainless does. I've actually had better luck, running the laser first on raw aluminum, then using a nice paint brush, and brushing on a thin layer of cermark, then run the laser again. I usually have taped down the item so when I paint on the aluminum I don't move the object.

    I have had pretty good luck doing steel this way (not stainless). I had to do some machinist tools that were tool steel, and a coat of lacquer, engrave, apply cermark, engrave again. Without the lacquer, the steel would turn dark all over from a chemical reaction with the cermark.

    Mark
    ULS X-2 660, Corel X3, Haas VF4, Graphtec vinyl cutter, Xenetech rotaries (3), Dahlgren Tables, Gorton P2-3, New Hermes pantographs (2), and recently, 24" x 36" chinese router. Also do sublimation, sand blasting, & metal photo. Engraver since 1975.

  7. #7
    Hello Gary,

    To try to answer your questions:

    Yes, it can be applied too thick. If it is too thick you will have difficulty getting it to bond to the substrate. Try to apply as thin a coat as possible, only enough to hide the surface of the metal underneath. We recommend spraying to get an even, consistent coating. Airbrushes work extremely well, and there is very little overspray.

    CerMark should work well on aluminum too, but you have hit the nail right on the head, aluminum is a better heat sink! It will tend to soak the heat away from the marking spot. You'll need to compensate by slowing down your writing speed or increasing the DPI. You may even need to do both if the part is very thick, or if your laser is 3o watts or less. On our 45 watt we run at 100% power and about 5% speed when marking .020 inch thick aluminum tags.

    Hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions!

    Sean
    Sean Weir (formerly of CerMark Laser Marking Products)
    ESL Electroscience
    416 East Church Rd.
    King of Prussia, PA 19406
    Phone: (610) 751-7772

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