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Thread: Acrylic, Vinyl Lettering, Backpainted

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Sammamish, WA
    Posts
    7,630

    Acrylic, Vinyl Lettering, Backpainted

    This is not exactly an exciting sign, but it's a little different method so I thought I'd share.

    One of the more upscale parking garages prefers this type of sign for a classier look than just vinyl lettering on the surface. The added advantage is no one can pick at the letters.

    It's clear 1/8" acrylic. The vinyl lettering/arrow are cut in reverse and applied to the back. Then I spray it with the background color. After the paint is dry, I sheet the back with scraps of vinyl to protect the paint in the mounting process.
    Attached Images Attached Images



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

  2. #2
    Nice looking work Joe. How the heck do you do all this reverse lettering? Every time I try, you can see the adhesive on the front, visible surface.

    How are you preventing that?
    Lasers : Trotec Speedy 300 75W, Trotec Speedy 300 80W, Galvo Fiber Laser 20W
    Printers : Mimaki UJF-6042 UV Flatbed Printer , HP Designjet L26500 61" Wide Format Latex Printer, Summa S140-T 48" Vinyl Plotter
    Router : ShopBot 48" x 96" CNC Router Rotary Engravers : (2) Xenetech XOT 16 x 25 Rotary Engravers

    Real name Steve but that name was taken on the forum. Used Middle name. Call me Steve or Scott, doesn't matter.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Sammamish, WA
    Posts
    7,630
    I squeegie extra hard, then keep it in a warm place for a while, and squeezie again before removing the transfer tape. The same thing happens when you apply to the inside of windows on a storefront. In cold weather I bring along a hair dryer to warm them after application.

    On these acrylic signs the worst thing is that if a hair or fuzz gets on it before you paint, it will show so you have to be careful.



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

  4. #4
    Help me Obie-Wan-KaJoe-Be

    Here's some chrome I just tried in reverse. I squeegeed the crap out of it, heated it with a heat gun 3 times and did it again, as hard as I could with the hardest plastic squeegee I had. I still get this same result.

    Any suggestions? Perhaps throw this brand out and try another brand?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    • File Type: jpg 1.JPG (60.1 KB, 36 views)
    • File Type: jpg 2.JPG (106.5 KB, 34 views)
    • File Type: jpg 3.JPG (88.2 KB, 32 views)
    Lasers : Trotec Speedy 300 75W, Trotec Speedy 300 80W, Galvo Fiber Laser 20W
    Printers : Mimaki UJF-6042 UV Flatbed Printer , HP Designjet L26500 61" Wide Format Latex Printer, Summa S140-T 48" Vinyl Plotter
    Router : ShopBot 48" x 96" CNC Router Rotary Engravers : (2) Xenetech XOT 16 x 25 Rotary Engravers

    Real name Steve but that name was taken on the forum. Used Middle name. Call me Steve or Scott, doesn't matter.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Sammamish, WA
    Posts
    7,630
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Shepherd View Post
    Help me Obie-Wan-KaJoe-Be

    Here's some chrome I just tried in reverse. I squeegeed the crap out of it, heated it with a heat gun 3 times and did it again, as hard as I could with the hardest plastic squeegee I had. I still get this same result.

    Any suggestions? Perhaps throw this brand out and try another brand?
    Yes. The Chrome gold and silver by Arlon that I use always comes out beautifully.



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

  6. #6

    Try a felt squeegee, and lighten up on the vinyl, maybe?

    We always have good luck when we take our time, have a clean dry surface, use the hinge method, and gently squeegee. The thick felt squeegees from I can't remember where, are very good for this job. This method worked on approx. 9 year old chrome gold unknown origin vinyl, cut-twice on the plotter. It wrinkled/bubbled while I was cutting it, too. No picture, sorry, i was amazed tho'. Thank goodness they were 5/8 letters. Any smaller might have been a bigger issue for my old plotter.
    Sometimes force isn't the answer.? If I hurry, I always screw-up vinyl.
    I can't take credit for the actual application, my right-hand artist guy did it. And he never hurries
    good luck

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