More Inlay Questions

[Joe Pelonio]

Here's a simple one I just unclamped, still have to sand and finish it. This is a typical quilt star block, which my wife suggested I do, and try to sell through quilt shops. I mitered the corners of the border to save material but now I think it looks better that way.

I do have a couple of other questions. Since I find it a pain to use masking tape until they are all glued, then clamp, what are good sources for smaller vacuum bags? I really only expect to need one that will hold 12"x24".

Also, do you think it's a good idea to engrave the names of the various woods on the back of the piece?

[Mike Null]

Joe

Nice job. Can't help on the vacuum bag but I like the idea of engraving or labeling the varieties of wood.

[Mitchell Andrus]

Nice Joe. Veneer supplies... joewoodworker.com

A quality bag will cost $50.00+, but I wouldn't do without any of mine. I recommend veneer glue, also. Thicker (be sure to stir it each use) and bigger particles for less soak-through thin stuff.

Neat trick on this kind of thing, run 1/40" black dyed strips around the parts before assembly (leave room in the patterns). Makes the woods pop and takes just a few minutes with a razor blade and 'fast' CA glue.

[Joe Pelonio]

Thanks. I see they have kits to build my own, probably better than buying the whole setup that's way bigger than I need. I have had problems with glue causing it to curl so I'll try the veneer glue too.

[Ray Mighells]

Nice neat job Joe. Very pretty burl too. I would re-orient the oak grain to go straight away from the center like sun rays. Nice tip from Mitchell. I always used veneer tape to assemble a project with a lot of small pieces unless I had a one piece field and assembled it one piece at a time. Can't beat a vacuum for a clamp.

[Joe Pelonio]

I see your point on the grain. I wasn't thinking about it and what you suggest makes sense and will probably get me a better yield from the veneer.

[Mike Hood]

Since I find it a pain to use masking tape until they are all glued, then clamp, what are good sources for smaller vacuum bags? I really only expect to need one that will hold 12"x24".

I back stuff larger than that and just use poly drop cloth seamed with plumbers tape. I also have a large formica drafting table that I pull a vacuum on the same way that works really well. Not need to buy fancy bags... just heavy plastic and works great.

[Lee DeRaud]

The bags are cheap...if you already have the vacuum pump.

Rockler sells a hand-pumped widget (intended for gluing skateboard blanks, I think) that works fine for stuff that size.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...&filter=vacuum

[Tom Majewski]

Joe, get in with someone who goes to the local quilt expos. These are all 1/4" thick pieces. It doesn't hurt sales that Peggy is a quilting instructor.

[Carol VanArnam]

Joe I drove over to Rockler last Friday and bought 8 bundles of wood. WOW thanks for the tip that was a great price. I usually shop at the Tukwilla store but it was worth driving up to the Stone street store. They had over a 100 bundles.

I love your first try it looks great. Thanks for posting this tread. I'll have to read all of it so I can learn the tricks. I've got the wood now and need to get the smarts to make it happen...

[Frank Corker]

Joe, nice work! Looks very effective

[Joe Pelonio]

Joe, get in with someone who goes to the local quilt expos. These are all 1/4" thick pieces. It doesn't hurt sales that Peggy is a quilting instructor.

Very nice, Tom. My wife teaches too, at a local quilt store, and I have customers that I make acrylic templates for that do shows. If I can come up with some good work I should have ways to sell them.

[Pete Simmons]

Joe / Tom/ Mitch :

More info please on how you do these. I do deep veneers 0.070 - 0.125 thick. I would like to get into thin veneer inlays.

Do you just do a shallow raster cut then glue the veneer in place?

I worry that doing it that way does not leave enough material to sand.

[Joe Pelonio]

In this I used birch plywood (3 ply) as the backing. I experimented to get the settings to rastor it out to the proper depth. The Sapele Pomelle (top, bottom, L and R in star) was thicker so I engraved those a second time.
They are still a hair higher so will have to be sanded down but all the rest is pretty close to flush.

Some of the veneer I have is 1/42 and that doesn't leave much for sanding, luckily I have been able to find a good amount of older thicker stuff.