Dye-Sublimation of Dupont Corian

[Keith Outten]

I started this new thread and moved several posts from another thread to keep things on topic.


Mike,

I'm doing dye-sublimation, CNC and laser work in the commercial sign market. I also do my own wrought iron design and fabrication, building hangers for my signs.

I have a Corian dye-sub building sign project underway right now, the link below shows a sign inlay in post number 3 that I just finished yesterday.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=61840

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[Dan Starr]

Keith,
The sign looks very nice but if I'm not mistaken won't the dye-sublimation colors fade outdoors in a matter of months?

[Keith Outten]

Dan,

The truth is we don't know how long dye-sublimated Corian will last outdoors exposed to UV light. According to a magazine article that Ken Dolph quoted an indoor application on a poly substrate could last 30 years even with some UV exposure. Both the dye and the substrate have to be considered as both can contribute to fading. Corian won't fade for 30 years in an exterior application...if anyone knows how long the dye-sub ink will last I would like to see some data. The expectation is very high though for Corian applications but there isn't any proof to speak of at this point in time.

Here is what I know...I placed a small Corian dye-sub plaque on the dashboard of my truck throughout July and August last year. There was no sign of any fading at all from the 60 day test. I had made an identical test sample that we kept in the office for comparison.

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[Mike Hood]

Keith;

Your Corian image is beautiful. I bought the dye sub setup specifically to compliment the laser business. I think the laser color printing is doing similar things.

I really need to find a local source for 1/4" Corian though. It looks like it's receptive to the dye sub inks very nicely. I've also been told that Frog Juice will prevent UV fading as well. Something to think about.

[Keith Outten]

Thanks Mike,

I also started doing dye-sub to compliment my laser work, it was a means to offer color that was more vibrant than paint fill. I will do some research on Frog Juice to see what level of protection it may provide. Thanks for the tip.

Quarter inch thick Corian is hard to find other than purchasing full sheets. Dupont doesn't make 1/4" sheets in every color but I'm sure that it is offered in Glasier White. I will call my distributor Monday morning and get a price, if anyone wants to share a sheet with me let me know. I'm told that 1/4" Corian is about the same price as 1/2" so the price of a 30" by 145" sheet will most likely be 250 to 280 dollars.

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[Mike Hood]

I'd love to get some, but I'm guessing the freight would eat us alive being on both coasts. I'd love to find a distributor around here (Seattle arae), but most I've contacted around here are only interested in selling countertops, not material.

I have a co-worker whose husband works in a local CNC shop that does signage in Corian. He gave me a few pieces. Neat stuff.

Does it take dye at 400 degrees? and what dwell time are you using?

(I only have the one piece to play with)

The frog juice will protect signage from UV for a year or two in most cases. Should help Corian as well?

[Keith Outten]

Mike,

Dupont prohibits anyone from purchasing sheets of Corian unless they have obtained their "Certified Installer" qualification. There is a means of attaining the certification to purchase without becoming a certified installer, you have to contact your local distributor to attain their procedure. It seems that the procedure varies between distributors.

In my case I contacted Dupont directly and through a series of phone calls and emails I was told to submit a letter with references, work experience and other information that Dupont required before they would provide me a certification to purchase Corian. I am not a solid surface counter top installer but I am certified to purchase Corian for the purpose of fabricating signs.

Based on information that Ken Dolph provided me when I started you never want to heat Corian over 350 degrees F. Ken suggested 320 degrees for 20 minutes, this is what has worked for me with my equipment.

Corian will get very soft at 320 degrees which is required for the ink to transfer. I realize that the long dwell time is dramatically different from traditional substrates but Corian is a different animal altogether. There are companies that use heat presses with built-in vacuum systems to dye-sublimate Corian but I don't know what advantages the vacuum provides and the equipment is out of my price range.

Some experimentation is required when you start, for instance you may want to leave your first plaque in your press to cool down and turn off the power because you must have a means of keeping your Corian plaque flat until it cools to below 180 degrees. Corian has a tendency to curl at the edges when it is hot. I have collected several aluminum and steel plates that I use with clamps to keep my plaques flat until they cool down. When your plaque cools you may have several areas where the paper sticks to the Corian surface, the easiest method I have found to remove the paper is to use a Random Orbital Sander with a white Scotch 3M pad and counter top polish. This will both remove the paper and polish your plaque at the same time.

The hard part is waiting for your plaque to cool down so you can see the results

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[Gary Hair]

When your plaque cools you may have several areas where the paper sticks to the Corian surface, the easiest method I have found to remove the paper is to use a Random Orbital Sander with a white Scotch 3M pad and counter top polish. This will both remove the paper and polish your plaque at the same time.

Keith,
I use Krylon Easy-Tack on PVC when I dye sub and I never get sticking, without Easy-Tack it stuck pretty badly. I haven't tried it on Corian yet but my guess is that it would work very well! I spray a very light coat, and I mean VERY light, let it dry for a few minutes and them apply the paper. This may also give you a better image because the paper is in better contact with the substrate.

Gary

[Mike Hood]

Thanks Keith;

I'll check into that. I know they have two levels of certification, one for the product warranty and the other for the installation warranties. I'll check into it for sure.

Ever tried sub'ing on any other materials? I've been looking at various materials that might be more affordable than the standard coated hardboards and FRP materials. I'd like to find something that dye subs and is laserable... and cheap.

May be no such thing... I've purchased some monster milk and plan to play around with it and see what works with it.

[Doug Jones from Oregon]

Mike, if you have not already, you might want to contact EB Bradley. I think their Seattle area location is in Kent. They may not offer Dupont Corian, but I know they offer at least one of the other solid surface products.

Doug

[Doug Jones from Oregon]

Keith, I'm quite certain that you will find that UV does in fact cause fading in your sublimation ink when placed out doors, even on Corian. It will vary greatly depending on UV exposure, more in the southern portions of the US than the northern.

If you are interested in finding out for sure, you could contact Bill Leek of http://www.jblgraphics.com/ He has in the past done accelerated UV exposure testing on different substrates and could do the same with corian. Might be in your best interest...don't think you will want a bunch of unhappy customers a year down the road.

Doug

[Keith Outten]

Mike,

My dye-sub experience is limited to Corian and coffee mugs so I have a lot to learn.

Frog Juice and Monster Milk...your a wealth of information

I understand you can purchase polyester cloth and dye-sublimate it real cheap. I hope to visit a local fabic shop real soon and purchase a few square yards then see what I can do with the stuff.

No doubt someone here at The Creek has some ideas for material that is inexpensive and plentiful

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[Keith Outten]

Thanks Doug,

I will contact Bill and see what information he has to offer plus inquire about any fees involved.

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[Joe Pelonio]

Mike,

Frog Juice and Monster Milk...your a wealth of information

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Frog juice is a very versatile product. It was created by Butch "Superfrog" Anton who is an old time signmaker that gives workshops and writs articles in trade publications. It's great for applying to banners and vinyl to help paint stick, and as mentioned before help protect from UV.

[Mike Null]

Keith

Dye sub will work beautifully on polymer coated/polymer fabrics. It will give you a "hand" (feel) smoother and softer than any other process. In my opinion the color intensity is also greater.

The high heat required can be a bit of a problem as can blow through--ink migrating to the second layer of material. Using a protective sheet of Teflon or some other material as a backer is recommended.