What is CLTT ??

[jack Halley]

Tom:
I am into CLTT. If your on a budget, an Okidata 3400 laser printer is OK. About $400.00. If you have a couple of hundred more, go for a Konica Minolta 5450 Magicolor, about $600.

Larry or other users,
Are there any minimum usage problems with this machine(Konica Minolta 5450)?
If it was seldom used does the toner dry up or create problems?

Has anybody had multiple problems with the machine or the process?


The same question with the paper?

Thanks in advance---

jack Halley
Forsyth,Mo.
Pinnacle M 30w

[Mike Null]

This is one of the real advantages of the CLTT system. The toner does not dry up or clog. While cartridges are expensive they last a long time.

Another is that you can get consistent color results.

There is an issue with durability on hard surface items but I use it for name tags and haven't had any complaints.

I don't use it for mugs but if you decide to do that use a matt rather than gloss finished mug and do not use the dishwasher. (I just ran a test of the matt finished mug and got through 5 dishwashings before the image began to degrade.)

[jack Halley]

Thanks Mike! That's what I wanted to hear!
jack Halley
Pinnacle M 30w

[Harry Radaza]

I'm also very interested in this process. Does anyone know of a link which describes the process in detail? I already do have a heat press. I just need the transfer paper. I know there are transfer papers for fabric which I should probably not use if my material is shell or wood. For shells or wood, what type of transfer paper should I then use?

is this the right process ?

1) print on transfer paper using ordinary laser color printer (toner)
2) heatt press

and thats it?

[Larry Bratton]

I'm also very interested in this process. Does anyone know of a link which describes the process in detail? I already do have a heat press. I just need the transfer paper. I know there are transfer papers for fabric which I should probably not use if my material is shell or wood. For shells or wood, what type of transfer paper should I then use?

is this the right process ?

1) print on transfer paper using ordinary laser color printer (toner)
2) heatt press

and thats it?

Harry:
That's pretty much it. To get all the info you need, do a search here, BUT I suggest you call and talk to Mick Eminger at http://www.cactus-equipment.com/ He sells the paper, and is a CLTT guru. He can tell you all about the best printer to use, heat and pressure settings etc etc. Have fun, it's a neat process.

[Harry Radaza]

a few more questions (dumb one's I think)...

Can I just use ordinary transfer paper ? (the kind they sell here are the ones used to dye sub for mugs)

I noticed for the transfer paper for fabric you peel off the backing. For the ordinary materials, there is nothing to peel off... is this normal ?

what are the temp/time settings for the press?

Will ordinary inkjet work ? Or I DO HAVE TO USE laser color (toner) printer?

If done correctly, the process should work with shell, wood, acrylic, right?

[Larry Bratton]

a few more questions (dumb one's I think)...

Can I just use ordinary transfer paper ? (the kind they sell here are the ones used to dye sub for mugs)

I noticed for the transfer paper for fabric you peel off the backing. For the ordinary materials, there is nothing to peel off... is this normal ?

what are the temp/time settings for the press?

Will ordinary inkjet work ? Or I DO HAVE TO USE laser color (toner) printer?

If done correctly, the process should work with shell, wood, acrylic, right?

Harry:
The transfer paper has to be the kind for CLTT transfers.
Whatever the instructions say is normal.
With Mick's paper you get temp/time settings for different things. He also has a list on hand with all kinds of tested settings for various things.
No..inkjet will NOT work. You have to use a modern laser printer that uses the newer types of toners. Konica Minolta and Okidata both make fairly inexpensive printers that use the right kind of ink. I don't think either company actually supports the process, so your kinda on your own in that dept.

I don't do a lot of CLTT, as I am very busy doing sign work, but it works on most anything that you can put in the press. It works on wood, fabrics, plastics, metal, leather, tiles or ceramic stuff. You can do cups with it, but some say if their washed in the dishwasher a lot it won't stay on there like regular sublimation. There is paper for fabric and one for hard goods.
CALL MICK!

[Harry Radaza]

anyone ever tried laser engraving + CLTT ?

Laser engrave an image. Then print exact same image for CLTT. If you can align it correctly, could this work?

[Mike Null]

Harry

I've been doing CLTT for some time now (about 8 years) and I agree with most of Larry's points. My machine is 8 years old so the toners of that time were just fine. I use MagicTouch paper exclusively and am very happy with my results.

There is a difference in transfer papers so I would ask everybody for samples.

[Larry Bratton]

anyone ever tried laser engraving + CLTT ?

Laser engrave an image. Then print exact same image for CLTT. If you can align it correctly, could this work?

Harry,
I made some wooden business cards. I laser engraved part of it and used CLTT to put a color logo on it. It's kinda tricky, but with a little trial and error you could possibly make it work. The combination of the two processes can make some great looking items. Awards and plaques are pretty big I understand.

[Harry Radaza]

I finally received my items from mick at cactus. I tried several small stuff and was very excited by the idea of being able to transfer color!

A few thoughts I have. The color transfer gave a shiny effect. Not exactly what I wanted but can still be doable for certain applications. I was looking for a flat effect. If you transfer and do not cover the whole material with transfer paper (cutting the tranfer paper too small to just fit the image) then there will be a visible mark on the material from the process.

I am wondering if transfer paper from other suppliers will give a flat effect and not shiny. Anyone care to shed light on this?

I also noticed that the colors after the transfer are somewhat dull and toned down. It doesn't seem to be as vibrant as I was hoping for.

The material has to be flat. Any small dips and curves and there wont be a transfer on that material. I am wondering if the DCT water decal transfer paper from magictouch uk is the answer to transferring onto curved surfaces?

I am experimenting right now with combining laser engravings and cltt to hopefully get a somewhat colored engraving effect. first few results turned out ok .... but will have to do more on it.

[Mike Null]

Harry

I use MagicTouch paper but most of the finishes I get I would call satin rather than glossy.

The water slide decals are for very smooth items like porcelain, glass or objects with a perfectly smooth surface. Water slide decals do not require heat.

Unless you are using a white material as a substrate your image will be devoid of white and that will alter the color reproduction.

Transferring the image requires both heat and pressure and unless you have a means of applying that equally to the entire surface you'll be limited to flat images.

My most frequent use of CLTT is for name tags. I make an outline 1/8" larger than the name tag and center my name tag within that. You will get the full transfer with no marks or lines.

[Larry Bratton]

Harry:
I tried another brand of paper..maybe it was Magic Touch..don't recall, but it wasn't as good as Micks.

Which printer are you using? That makes a difference. I have a Minolta and an Okidata. To me the CLTT from the Oki is more vibrant than the Minolta. Both are good.

[Harry Radaza]

samsung clp300 here. Mick said he has the same printer too and it works good for him.

I did not take into account the fact that no whites are printed.... that could be why. I was using a somewhat dark substrate.

So far so good though. I can see several applications for this. Really still trying to get good results with laser and heat pressing. can't so far. It seems I would have to engrave really shallow so as to be still able to have the substrate have the effect of being engraved with color.

Also, my clam shell heat press doesnt seem to press evenly if it is a large surface. I might have to experiment with rotating it after 1 minute press.