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Thread: Wood Shop Floors - What to use?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Pacific, Mo.
    Posts
    2,835
    Quote Originally Posted by John DeVan View Post
    2 X 4 treated sleepers on depressed concrete slab, plastic sheet vapor barrier, 3/4-inch treated plywood subfloor, then parquet squares. It's a very comfortable work floor, ... just ask my wife who recently used the shop to arrange some flowers for a neice's wedding. Sweeps up easily too.
    That's not a shop, it's somebody's livingroom Real nice looking "shop" and the flowers are real pretty too.

    Seriously nice floor.
    Making new friends on SMC each and every day

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    London, Ont., Canada
    Posts
    2,200
    Quote Originally Posted by James Leonard View Post
    Hello,

    I will take some photos of my new shop layout soon. I was able to buy enough computer (access) floor tiles locally to build out a 20 x 20 two car garage.


    Yes! Please! Do put up some photos. But make sure you start a new thread, so it gets noticed.

    Did you get the suction cup thingy for pulling up the tiles? How high is your floor? I used to work at a place with an Ooooold raised floor computer room. The floor was about 12-18" up off the floor. All the cabling was down below. But my understanding was that this was VERY expensive to put in when new.

    cool.
    ...art
    "It's Not About You."

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Smithville Missouri
    Posts
    604
    Good Lord John,
    Where's the bar, hide-a-bed, couch, and tv set. Did I get a peek at a surround sound speaker hanging in the background? Ahh Virginia Beach, lived there for six years and loved it. Haven't been there since 1986 for a weeks vacation.
    Great looking shop!!!
    Been around power equipment all my life and can still count to twenty one nakey

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Mt. Pleasant, MI
    Posts
    2,925
    What Ken said. Daddy always told me it only hurts for a little while.

    I'm not sure if there is any notable difference between concrete and wood for wear on your joints. Unless the floor is "springy" it would be unlikely to make much difference. A thousand years ago I sold sporting goods and we sold different shoes for road runners vs cinder tracks. (they even make cinder tracks anymore?) Been a long time so there may be more info out there now since I don't follow that anymore.

    The ability to run wiring under the floor is a big advantage and while epoxy looks good a nice plank floor wood be outstanding.

    Joe
    JC Custom WoodWorks

    For best results, try not to do anything stupid.

    "So this is how liberty dies...with thunderous applause." - Padmé Amidala "Star Wars III: The Revenge of the Sith"

  5. #20
    As i write this my tablesaw, jointer/planer, and bandsaw are outside (covered)waiting for me to put a finish on the floor that i just installed over cement. Mine is a new shop but the cement floors never felt right so i decided to pull everything out and correct it. i thought it would be a day or two but 5 days latter here i sit. sore and happy.

    i used 1/2 baltic birch ply (sheets were 5'x5' , $23 each.) on 2x4 runners run every 10 inches. this leaves only about 6 inches between runners. i laid the 6 mil poly directly on the cement with the runners on top of this. i used standard 2x's except at the doors which i used treated 2x10's. i did overkill on the runners because of the 1/2 inch needing more support. the floor looks and feels great. i did it all myself which is why i liked the idea of the 5x5 sheets in the 1/2 inch. i am too old to deal with 3/4 4x8's by myself. my shop is wired too the hilt but i ran wiring in the floor where needed.

    i am really happy i did this project. i know that on a sub-conscious level my body is going to want to spend more time in this environment because of what i have done.

    good luck Glen in your decision.

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