Finishing sapele...

[peter slamp]

I'm getting ready to start a project where the tabletop is a beautiful slab of 8/4 sapele that is fairly red in color. I am looking for a clear gloss finish that will enhance but not alter the color significantly. This table will be used and I have a 3 year old so liquid-proofing is a must! What do you recommend? I've got Jewitt's book but it's actually a bit overwhelming. I thought I'd use shellac sealer (zinser?) then poly. I've used poly almost exclusively in my work so I thought maybe something different? I don't want to have to spray though. I've never worked with sapele before, it is quite beautiful! Thanks!

[Russ Filtz]

I still prefer the time tested witches brew of pure tung, mineral spirits, and poly on almost everything I do. I start with VERY little poly to really get the tung to pop. Then as I start adding coats after letting it cure, I start adding more and more poly. Up to maybe 1/3 each. Then if you really want final protection, you can add a few coats of the wipe on poly by itself. (after you let it cure for awhile)

This system takes time to add all the coats, but for a personal piece, it's worth it. Figure at least a week if not two to get some "build" on the finish. Remember to "wet" sand between coats. I usually use a little spirits with some wet/dry sandpaper to help de-nub and flatten.

[jeremy levine]

I still prefer the time tested witches brew of pure tung, mineral spirits, and poly on almost everything I do. I start with VERY little poly to really get the tung to pop. Then as I start adding coats after letting it cure, I start adding more and more poly. Up to maybe 1/3 each. Then if you really want final protection, you can add a few coats of the wipe on poly by itself. (after you let it cure for awhile) ....

Do you have any photos of results you could post.

[Jim Becker]

Any oil type "brew" will alter the color...generally darker. If you want to retain the color, you want something that is colorless or nearly so. NC Lacquer or water borne acrylic will usually do that. A coat of de-waxed super blond shellac will often do a nice grain pop before those top-coats with just a slight color alteration. If you want to use an oil-based product, something like Pratt and Lambert #38 which is based on soya oil will darken less than a BLO or tung based product.

[peter slamp]

Thanks Jim. I was thinking about using dewaxed shellac sanding sealer. For topcoats I was thinking I'd use, well, multiple coats of Zinsser's shellac. Would this be good enough or should I also top with a varnish like Rockhard or Waterlox? Thanks!

[Joe Chritz]

Shellac is a good finish and looks very nice. You can pick a color of the shellac if you mix your own. It isn't extremely durable but is easy to repair if damaged. A french polish looks outstanding. I don't have the skill or patience to do a good french polish.

Waterlox is a great finish but will change the color a fair amount. If you want grain "pop" with minimal color change then go with Jim's suggestion. Superblonde dewaxed shellac followed by a waterbased acrylic.

Grab some scraps and do some boards. Its the only way to tell if the change is more than you are looking for.

Joe

[Russ Filtz]

Do you have any photos of results you could post.

Why yes, yes I do!
These aren't the best for showing the finish, but you get the idea. I thought I had some stereo stand photos of cherry/black laminate I did, but not here at work!

P.S. I know I need to refold the flags to match the case! Notice the really old flag in walnut. Only has 48 stars! ( you can tell they're bigger!)

P.P.S. I've never worked with Sapele, so I don't know how it would react to an oil finish. Test some scraps!

[Jim Becker]

Thanks Jim. I was thinking about using dewaxed shellac sanding sealer. For topcoats I was thinking I'd use, well, multiple coats of Zinsser's shellac. Would this be good enough or should I also top with a varnish like Rockhard or Waterlox? Thanks!

If you are going to use shellac as your final finish, then just use the same shellac you plan for that from the get-go. My reference to de-waxed shellac we merely to insure that sealing/coloration from the use of shellac remains compatible for any top-coat finish you might choose...including water borne or anything containing polyurethane.

I have shellac on several tables in my home. They were great...until we adopted our daughters. Since then, I've had to touch up the shellac and then coat with water borne acrylic given the kid's propensity to physically and actively abuse furniture with both solids and liquids. Using what is essentially a "water clear" finish over the shellac at least allows me to keep the look I prefer on these air-dried walnut pieces...

So, my recommendation to you is that if this table is in a room that is a common are for your child(ren), consider putting something over the shellac for realistic durability.