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Thread: Blade angle for a #5?

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Question Blade angle for a #5?

    Hi All,

    I have just started the slippery slope and am amazed by my new diamond and water stones!

    What blade angle do you suggest for a #5 jack plane? As the Lee book stated the angle on it is 20 degrees. He suggest 30 to 35 degrees.

    I want to use this for removing the bandsaw marks from slabs and rough lumber. The bed angle is 45 degrees.

    Do I redo the entire angle at once or can I take it back a little at a time as I sharpen the iron until it is at the new angle? I have the Veritas guide and jig to help set the new bevel.

    Thanks
    Chuck

    When all else fails increase hammer size!
    "You can know what other people know. You can do what other people can do."-Dave Gingery

  2. Quote Originally Posted by Charles McKinley
    Hi All,

    I have just started the slippery slope and am amazed by my new diamond and water stones!

    What blade angle do you suggest for a #5 jack plane? As the Lee book stated the angle on it is 20 degrees. He suggest 30 to 35 degrees.

    I want to use this for removing the bandsaw marks from slabs and rough lumber. The bed angle is 45 degrees.

    Do I redo the entire angle at once or can I take it back a little at a time as I sharpen the iron until it is at the new angle? I have the Veritas guide and jig to help set the new bevel.

    Thanks
    On a standard Bailey style #5, the blade goes bevel down, so the grind angle isn't all that critical... (is it?); the angle at which the blade contacts the wood is the bed angle, regardless of grind.

    I've always done my jack planes at a 25 degree bevel angle. If I need to re-bevel a blade, I use a bench grinder with a white aluminum oxide stone for the initial bevel, then either waterstone or Scary Sharp after that.

  3. #3
    "so the grind angle isn't all that critical... (is it?); the angle at which the blade contacts the wood is the bed angle, regardless of grind."

    Yes, the angle is critical...draw a picture of how the combined bed and bevel angles cut the wood and you'll see.

    To answer the question...for your purposes, I don't think it matters much. I believe my jacks are gound at 25 degrees and secondary-beveled to 30 degrees.....I'll measure them this afternoon and post if they are different from that.

    Edited to add...."Yup."

    Last edited by Bob Smalser; 12-18-2003 at 8:43 PM.
    “Perhaps then, you will say, ‘But where can one have a boat like that built today?’ And I will tell you that there are still some honest men who can sharpen a saw, plane, or adze...men (who) live and work in out of the way places, but that is lucky, for they can acquire materials for one third of city prices. Best, some of these gentlemen’s boatshops are in places where nothing but the occasional honk of a wild goose will distract them from their work.” -- L Francis Herreshoff

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Thank you both for the relies.

    Bob I'm looking forward to your article.
    Chuck

    When all else fails increase hammer size!
    "You can know what other people know. You can do what other people can do."-Dave Gingery

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    Carmichael, Ca
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    Bob, thats a neat guage you have there. Where did you get it?

    Dave

  6. #6
    Just and old drill bit gage from General in Canada....look under machinist tools. I love machinist T-shaped depth gages as mini squares, too.
    “Perhaps then, you will say, ‘But where can one have a boat like that built today?’ And I will tell you that there are still some honest men who can sharpen a saw, plane, or adze...men (who) live and work in out of the way places, but that is lucky, for they can acquire materials for one third of city prices. Best, some of these gentlemen’s boatshops are in places where nothing but the occasional honk of a wild goose will distract them from their work.” -- L Francis Herreshoff

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Smalser
    "so the grind angle isn't all that critical... (is it?); the angle at which the blade contacts the wood is the bed angle, regardless of grind."

    Yes, the angle is critical...draw a picture of how the combined bed and bevel angles cut the wood and you'll see.
    I did, and I still don't see it.

    The angle at which the blade contacts the wood is the bed angle, period. The bevel angle, is on the "back" side of the blade.

    Not arguing, I just don't see what you're getting at. (I'm assuming no back bevel or micro-bevel, as I don't use either, and it simplifies this discussion.)

    Given the same depth of cut (and reasonably sharp blade), the only thing I can see a bevel angle affecting is how much metal is behind the shaving, which might change it's cutting characteristics, but that's not the question at hand. Or have I misread.

  8. #8
    You are correct about the flat side of the blade contacting the wood at the frog angle...but can't you visualize how different bevel angles will either slice into the wood too deeply/too quickly...steep bevel...or not bite in deep enuf and the fragile edge break off...shallow bevel?
    “Perhaps then, you will say, ‘But where can one have a boat like that built today?’ And I will tell you that there are still some honest men who can sharpen a saw, plane, or adze...men (who) live and work in out of the way places, but that is lucky, for they can acquire materials for one third of city prices. Best, some of these gentlemen’s boatshops are in places where nothing but the occasional honk of a wild goose will distract them from their work.” -- L Francis Herreshoff

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    According to Mr. Lee,

    If you go below 30 degrees you encourage blade chatter, higher than 35 degrees he says the blade dulls faster. (paraphrased)

    I was asking what other people found worked well for them and the best way to change the angle on my iron.

    Thanks
    Last edited by Charles McKinley; 12-20-2003 at 10:41 PM.
    Chuck

    When all else fails increase hammer size!
    "You can know what other people know. You can do what other people can do."-Dave Gingery

  10. Quote Originally Posted by Bob Smalser
    You are correct about the flat side of the blade contacting the wood at the frog angle...but can't you visualize how different bevel angles will either slice into the wood too deeply/too quickly...steep bevel...or not bite in deep enuf and the fragile edge break off...shallow bevel?
    No, I can't. I guess I'll just have to use the experience of those ahead of me and trust.

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