Favorite Waterborne Topcoat?

[glenn bradley]

What's your choice to use instead of poly when that kind of protection is needed?

[Joe Chritz]

I spray almost everything with Target USL.

They have more durable finishes available but the USL is pretty tough stuff.

Since I got some I haven't used poly for anything but floors.

Wipe on finishes, if I ever use it is waterlox. I use zinseer shellac cut to 2# for shop fixtures and non critical areas. Drawer boxes and the like.


Joe

[Jim Becker]

Target Coatings USL is my go-to finish for anything I choose to put a durable, clear top coat on.

[Al Navas]

Mine is a third vote for Target Coatings' Oxford USL (Ultima Spray Lacquer). I normally seal the wood with their blonde shellac, then spray the USL.


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[Joe Pelonio]

Maybe I should try Target. I normally use Chromatic Clear by 1-Shot.

[Sammy Shuford]

This "Target" USL? Is this a brand of the Target department stores?

[Glenn Clabo]

I'm sure you and I weren't the first ones to think that...so here's what I found when it was first mentioned way back when...
http://www.targetcoatings.com/

[Byron Trantham]

Yet another vote fof Target USL! The stuff is very forgiving.

[Joe Chritz]

Just to an add on...

I normally still use wipe on oil base stains so I shoot a sealcoat of thinned bullseye sealcoat (dewaxed shellac) on first. Sand back lightly then two coats of USL.

On light woods like maple it warms up the finish some and gives a nicer look. The target brand sealer (blonde shellac) would do the same.

Lots of waterbased finishes are nearly clear but the USL has a slight amber color of its own. Overall a very nice look.

Pictures coming soon of a full kitchen I just completed using USL and sealcoat.

Joe

[Alan Mikkelsen]

Target USL for me, unless it needs a little more protection, like baseboards, and then I'll shoot Target Pre-Cat Conversion Varnish. I've probably shot at least 10 gallons of each in the last year.

[Bob Reda]

I've been spraying target USL for a couple of years now. I think I'm going to try Hydrocote finishes after the review they recieved and the price is quite a bit less. Anyone ever use this?

Bob

[Sam Shank]

I am a recent convert of target usl. Yes it costs more, but as we all know, you get what you pay for.

As far as I know, this is the only water based finish with 100% burn in. Someone correct me please if I'm wrong.

I use others, but for cabinets and other projects, I use this stuff.

For floors I like Mega (Bona Kemi) finishes. Main thing here is quick dry time and no need to buff between coats.

[Quinn McCarthy]

Fuhr makes some nice finishes. I have had good luck with the 355 top coat.

Q

[John D. Thompson]

I've been spraying target USL for a couple of years now. I think I'm going to try Hydrocote finishes after the review they recieved and the price is quite a bit less. Anyone ever use this?

Bob

Hi Bob,

I have been using Hydrocote Resisthane for about a year now. It's a waterborne pre-cat lacquer and it is VERY hard.
Plusses include that the dry-to-touch time is an average of 10 minutes, which makes it a good choice for people like me who do not have a formal spray-booth. If you can keep the bugs and dust off of your work for about 10 minutes, then they won't foul your finish. Also, it lays down very well under the right conditions. It is also compatible with the Minwax water-based stains. You can even use them as 'toners'.

Drawbacks include the fact that it, like other waterborne lacquer, doesn't 'burn in' to the previous coat so, light sanding between coats is required and even the smallest imperfections have to be sanded out.

The 'right conditions' mentioned above are a little hard to determine. Temperature and relative humidity are critical to success. If it's too hot and dry the stuff won't flow out and it doesn't seem to matter how much you thin it. I was using a cheap conventional automotive gun at first and it gave great results but a lot of overspray. Then I tried a (cheap) HVLP conversion with less than ideal pressure and flow. Even after bringing the flow/pressure up to snuff, I had trouble getting proper atomization and I believe this was due to the gel-like nature of the material. I later switched to a Graco airless sprayer with the finest tip available and, for me, this seemed like the ticket. I was spraying kitchen cabinets so it involved lots of large, flat surfaces.

I'd say that Hydrocote Resisthane is definitely worth getting a gallon to try it out. Their tech-support guy is very patient and helpful and he knows his product inside out.

JT

[John Hain]

Target Coatings USL is my go-to finish for anything I choose to put a durable, clear top coat on.

Same for me Jim. Target USL for me with full burn-in (though not alot of competition). I go with gloss or semi-gloss for most everything. I find it's easier to knock the gloss down than to rub out a higher gloss coat.... I do most everything gloss and knock it down with sandpaper. Table tops get Gloss and get rubbed out with 400-600-pumice if I'm going for reflection.

It's very easy and it's safer..........