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Thread: FYI Oneida DC 3hp Gorilla on sale

  1. #16
    Andrew,

    I have the 3HP Gorilla in a relatively smallish shop (approx. 1 1/2 car garage). It's about as loud as any other tool (less than the DW735 planner though) but not more so. I leave it on for more than 10 minutes at a time w/o hearing protection without being uncomfortable. And the most important measure is that it's not to loud for SWMBO sitting in the house fairly close to the garage.

    Performance wise, it's great.

    Chris

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker
    Wayne the HF specs are flawed/creative for CFM and HP. A true 2hp induction motor on 120v will pull close to or over 20 amps if my memory isn't flawed. And the CFM figure is impossible for the blower size and inlet diameter, even at "free air". ( 0" SP)
    creative ill buy, but it works great all the same.

  3. Thank you very much all who responded for your input, especially to Mr.Gary Brewer who saved me $80 on the remote control.
    Based on his valuable info I extorted one for myself.

    So I've ordered 3hp Gorilla, remote control and 15' of 6" flex hose for $1550 including delivery to a freight terminal.

    Now it is time to design a ductwork.

    Here are the starting conditions:

    1. exausted budget

    2. going to move into a detached garage ( not built yet) in 1.5 years, so my current place is kind of temporary.

    3. most of my stationary tools I've bought within last year so they probably didn't get their precise locations yet.

    The plan is to use cheap components from Home Depot
    and 6" of flexible hose to plug the tools in, one at a time.

    The cyclon is going to be located in a closet.
    From its 8" inlet will be stiking 8" HVAC metal pipe 12' long approximately to the middle of the workshop where a cluster of machines and workbench are located.
    The 8" pipe ends with a 8x6x6 wye connected to 4' and 6' 6" flex hose, one to plug to a tool 4" standard port and another hose, using semi-flexible holder attached to 8' ceiling, I bring as close to the blade as possible probably using some kind of hood.

    After the central hub the main pipe is going to be continued in 6" diameter.
    Please note the blast gates are on the flex hoses, that, according to my beliefs will allow me to ajust the proportion of air from upper and lover flex pipes.

    Please let me know how delusional I am.
    Severe criticizm is very welcome.

    I bet you've never seen a picture that ugly before.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Andrew Chavchich; 02-16-2007 at 7:55 PM.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    49,641
    Andrew, your plan is fine for what you need to accomplish, IMHO. You could even drop down to 6" sooner if you need to...it will sacrifice some performance, but 6" 26 guage is easier to source than 8". But check with the local HVAC suppliers...many folks have discovered they could get spiral pipe for not much more than snap-lock. And whatever you buy in duct now should be re-usable once the new shop is built. KenCraft reportedly has good pricing on the wyes and other components...you really cannot use HVAC wyes for this application...they're backwards.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    339
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Chavchich
    Now it is time to design a ductwork.
    The cyclon is going to be located in a closet.
    Severe criticizm is very welcome.
    .
    Andrew/ Your plan looks fine. I would move your Oneida Gorilla further down the wall
    and locate it in the lower corner (unless there is some other conflict). This will provide
    more open space as well as allow the closet to be build with just two walls.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Gambrills, MD - Near Annapolis
    Posts
    556
    The ducting at HD won't work well with the DC unless it is sufficiently leaky. The ducting (I'm putting in ductwork for my downdraft cooktop, so I just looked at this) is 30gauge or so. At least according to Oneida, that is likely to collapse

    For the same reason, I'd suggest putting your blast gates at the last solid metal duct point and start your flex after your gate.

    Until you can do it "right", you can do like I did (I have most of my ductwork, but haven't installed it as I haven't had time) you can use it like a portable and just hook the flex to the tool in use (if it will extend that far)

    Pete

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Victor, New York
    Posts
    133

    A gorilla in the closet!

    Hi Andrew: Congratulations on bagging a gorilla! I am glad to help a fellow woodworker. Jessie told me today that three other people from Saw Mill Creek were able to get both promotions. I picked up my 3 hp Super Gorilla this afternoon in Syracuse. They were very nice and helpful at Oneida DC. I brought my Subaru Legacy station wagon and after removing three items from their boxes it all fit in my car ( no duct work though). The Oneida people were amazed. I am glad you could double dip on the incentives. I have been having motor problems on my small older dust collector and the two incentives tipped me over the line to get it now. I am also in the similar boat as you. Tapped out for some of the duct work. I might do it in two stages. They will design a duct work system for you for free if you would like. You can keep the cad drawings or wait and get it done with your new shop. I am also looking to put an addition out the back of my garage for a new workshop hopefully the summer after next. The salesman Jessie said that they would redo the duct design if I wanted (no charge). Your drawing and installation method has been interesting and helpful.
    Gary

  8. Thumbs up

    Comrades,
    cannot believe that more than one month went by since that Gorilla was ordered. I spent this month working 6 days a week from 6 pm to 12 pm preparing room for the dust collector, installing it then reinstalling setting up ductwork, also painted a couple of rooms and performed some minor improvements in the house.
    Now it is time to report.

    Since all my limited funds went into the dust collector itself I had to take some non-traditional approach when designing the ductwork and I'm satisfied with the outcome.
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    • File Type: jpg 1.JPG (84.0 KB, 52 views)
    • File Type: jpg 4.JPG (97.1 KB, 46 views)

  9. Ductowork design.

    I've posted some BS design idea before. The current design is a big deviation from the previous one.

    My goals were:
    1. to be able to pick up dust from major machines: TS, BS, jointer using both the standart port and
    from the above.

    2.To have kind of semi-permanent ductwork (palnning to move to different location) that doesn't cost a fortune.

    3. Switching from tool to tool should not take too much time and efforts.

    After long hours of meditation and sleepless nights I've decided to use 6" plastic SD pipes.

    The Gorilla has 8" inlet. To start I took 6x6x6 plastic 45 degrees wye, cut off the lower end on a band saw and then being armed with ingenious advices from Bil Pentz
    warmed it up on an electric oven and slightly enlarged this end to 8" and duct-taped it to the Gorilla's inlet.
    Actually I've used that inlet as a mold.

    Then I've made rigid ductwork to pickup the dust from above while 10' of flex pipe is used to pick up the dust from the standard ports (one tool at a time).

    Here is some pictures of table saw and band saw "ports".

    I have Rigid 3650 tablesaw with standard port of 2.5". I've made 6" to 4" reducer, drilled a 4 " hole in the blade shroud and attached 4" flex pipe there, 2.5" flex pipe is connected to the original port.

    For band saw 6" pipe splits into two 4" ones. I thought why waste the airflow and not pick up from the table level as well.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Andrew Chavchich; 03-28-2007 at 11:05 PM.

  10. My intention was to design some kind of semi-rigid flex hose holder to keep the end of the hose close to the blade let's say of a table saw.
    And I actually made one that came out so ugly and took so much efforts that I'm even ashamed to post a picture. Finally I've discarded it and developed a better solution.

    From 6" SD coupler I've cut a piece ~3" long. Since the flex hose does not go in I've made a cut along the length.
    . Now the flex hose fits in and stays there held by friction.
    On the opposite side I picked up a spot sanded it rough and epoxied 4 rare earth magnets from Lee Valley to this collar.
    What a beauty!
    Looks ugly but performs exceptionally well. I can use it to position the end of the flexhose precisely where I want for both tables saw and band saw.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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