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Thread: Embossed brass effect

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Corvallis, Oregon
    Posts
    443

    Smile Embossed brass effect

    Hi... I thought I would pass this along to the group. I bought my laser several years ago, and was looking for new ways to use it. I have not seen this mentioned on the forum, so maybe I am the first!

    I discovered a source of paper thin veneers: http://www.lenderink.com/

    These people produce a really thin veneer product from various kinds of hardwoods... only 4 or 5 thousandths thick. When I first got samples, I was at a loss as to how I could use it. Finally, after a lot of trial and error, I discovered a remarkable effect. I could make lettering look like inlaid brass! The technique is this: Take a piece of engravers brass (the thin kind, polished... available from any engraver's supply such as Johnson plastics) and adhere some of the veneer to it. You can use the thin 3M adhesive, or use photo mounting tissue and a heat press. Engrave through the veneer, exposing the brass. You may have to do it twice, as the adhesive sometimes leaves a residue that interferes with the final effect.

    The final step is to spray lacquer with a rattle can over the surface, using a fairly heavy coat. Sometimes two coats works better.

    After it dries, you will notice that the lettering looks raised... as if you had inlaid tiny brass letters into the wood! The reason for this is that the surface tension of the liquid lacquer causes the surface of the lacquer to rise up where the edge of the wood is. When the light hits it, it gives an optical effect making the lettering look like it is raised above the surface. It is really a quite remarkable effect, and quite easy to do. It will not work with thicker veneers. It also works with chrome plated brass to a very good effect. Aluminum does not work quite as well. The metal surface must be well polished, or you won't see the effect as much.

    The only problem I have had is sometimes the veneer won't stick to the polished brass because it is so smooth. I have tried various methods, and some work better than others. Lenderink also has various adhesives that they manufacture for their veneers. I have found them to be very helpful.

    You can buy this veneer in letter sized sheets, bare or with a paper backing.

    I hope that some of you can use this idea to make a couple of bucks!

    Mark
    ULS X-2 660, Corel X3, Haas VF4, Graphtec vinyl cutter, Xenetech rotaries (3), Dahlgren Tables, Gorton P2-3, New Hermes pantographs (2), and recently, 24" x 36" chinese router. Also do sublimation, sand blasting, & metal photo. Engraver since 1975.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Oxnard, CA
    Posts
    117

    Slick Trick

    Mark,

    That's the first I've heard of that slick trick of the trade.

    Nice!

    David "The Stunt Engraver" Lavaneri

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Moreton, Wirral, UK
    Posts
    3,287
    Dave is there any chance that we can see some photographs of stuff you have tried on please
    Epilog 45w Helix X3/X5 Corel Microflame Generator (flame polisher) Heat Bender


  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Oxnard, CA
    Posts
    117

    Smile

    Frank,

    I'd love to see photos as much as you.

    It's Mark, who would be able to make our wishes come true.

    David "The Stunt Engraver" Lavaneri

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Innisfil Ontario Canada
    Posts
    4,019
    Perhaps it's "Mark" that would have the pictures

  6. #6

    Paperback vs. bare

    Which did you use for your process... Have you tried both?
    Brent Vander Weil
    Epilog 35W Mini
    Graphtec CE5000-60

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Corvallis, Oregon
    Posts
    443
    Well, here you go... if I can get it to work. It is hard to photograph transparent, highly reflective objects. This particular award was made with a brass disc from one of the suppliers (I believe Western Trophy). The Lenderink veneer was applied to it and trimmed with a knife, then lasered and lacquered. The outer gear was standard veneer, about the same thickness as the "sandwich" of brass and thin veneer. It was vector cut to precisely fit the disk.

    The question was asked about paper back vs plain... I have used both, and the effect seems to be the same. The paper backed is easier to handle but more expensive.

    I made about 20 of these for awards in a steam club I belong to.

    It is really a simple process once you get all of the variables down pat. The only area I have had problems with is learning to re-burn the image to get the glue residue out, and as I mentioned before, sometimes the veneer won't stick to chrome.... if I had more time, I would try different adhesives. The one piece of equipment that makes this fast is a heated photo mounting press... (a small one, on ebay for less than $100). Without the press, I imagine an iron would work. The temperature is around 250 degrees F.

    The owner of Lenderink offered to find suitable adhesives, but I never pursued it, as I have more stuff to do than I have lifetime left!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    ULS X-2 660, Corel X3, Haas VF4, Graphtec vinyl cutter, Xenetech rotaries (3), Dahlgren Tables, Gorton P2-3, New Hermes pantographs (2), and recently, 24" x 36" chinese router. Also do sublimation, sand blasting, & metal photo. Engraver since 1975.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Innisfil Ontario Canada
    Posts
    4,019
    Wow!! That came out looking really nice..

  9. #9

    Very nice

    I agree that really creates a great illusion... Thank you for sharing this I am not sure when I wil get time to try it, but I will be a handy trick to be able to pull out of the bag...
    Brent Vander Weil
    Epilog 35W Mini
    Graphtec CE5000-60

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