Sanding the Inside of Hollow Forms???

[Brad Kimbrell]

Do you guys sand the inside of your HF's or not? If so, how?

I have one that is complete on the outside and as smooth on the inside as I can safely get it. I bought a replacement cutter for one of those Sorby curved-neck hollowing tools and made my own handle and shaft. It works very well, but now I think I would like to sand the inside.

I've considered attaching a sanding sponge to a handle and maybe attaching some velcro and sandpaper to that, but before I go to the trouble I thought I would ask the group.

Any ideas?

[Travis Stinson]

Some I do, some I don't. If I can't get a smooth enough finish with lights cuts from a scraper bit, I'll sand however I can. If the opening is large enough, I use a 2" hook & loop pad on a 6" extension and my angled drill. If not, a pair of 12" curved forceps holding sandpaper wrapped around a piece of sponge works well.

[Brad Kimbrell]

The forceps (without my fingers stuck in the holes!) sounds like a great idea. The paper around the sponge should get the job done...and no special tool to have to wait on.

Thanks Travis.

[John Hart]

I'm kinda the same way. Sometimes do...sometimes don't. I have a hollow master that scrapes a pretty nice surface inside....Sometimes I'll sand further if I can get some sandpaper in there. Almost always, I'll sand up under the shoulder.

[Andy Hoyt]

I usually sand the inside of my hollow forms with the judicious application of a collar.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I took a dowel rod 1/2" or so and split it on the end in the middle about 4" or so long. I then wrap sandpaper around it and use a little masking tape to hold it is place. Works pretty good.

[Brad Kimbrell]

Bernie,

Yeah, sounds like a "manual" whip-stick like my father uses in a drill or hand grinder to polish metal.

Quick and easy paper changes as well.

Thanks for the ideas.

[Thomas Canfield]

Brad,

I purchased a 2" Wave Sanding System pieces from Craft Supply, and installed the holder in a 1/4" x 12" bit extension on my cordless drill with a piece of PVC tubing over the extension to allow better control of the sanding. I use the wave discs with velcro backing and it goes very fast going from 120, 220, 320, and 400 grit. The wave allows for doing the inside curves with the extra flexibility on small bowls. I have not done any deep hollow forms and that would present more challange. I find the power sanding much faster and also does a better job than just hand sanding.

[Jim Becker]

Not much unless it's an "almost bowl" type hollow form. Only another turner would look, anyway... And while that sounds a little faciecious, keep in mind that sanding the interior can be a somewhat dangerous operation in many cases. If you can, just do a shear scrape to get a nice smooth surface where it can be seen.

[Curt Fuller]

I usually sand the inside of my hollow forms with the judicious application of a collar.

That would be my technique too. Keep the collar opening small so it doesn't let in light or fingers.
Unless you're Travis Stinson and you use some of that 2nd rate wood that's full of holes. Then you have to do the inside almost as purty as the outside.

[Brad Kimbrell]

Yeah Curt, maybe we should all pitch in for Christmas and buy Travis some of that good wood from HD.

I understand that they've even got some good 6x6 treated stuff that the bugs won't eat!

You would think that with him selling his stuff and all he could afford some of that good stuff!

[Travis Stinson]

Alright! Some 6 x 6 treated stuff! That'll work. (No knots please....)

[Gary DeWitt]

I'm with Andy and Curt. Make the opening too small for a finger, or collar it down to that.

[George Tokarev]

I've considered attaching a sanding sponge to a handle and maybe attaching some velcro and sandpaper to that, but before I go to the trouble I thought I would ask the group.

Any ideas?

Haemostat, as mentioned, provides the clamp and a curve. Also hangs metal out there where it might ding things. I use mine with a square of sanding sponge gripped up, but where it will reach, I like the split dowel approach. Kerf in the end of your dowel, spread for sponge in slit, slide "O" rings back down the dowel for better clamping action.

Keep clearing the dust, because you don't need to waste time re-sanding it, and remember, it only has to feel smooth, which means flowing some shellac around inside and sanding it. Who cares what the filled grain looks like?

[Bob Opsitos]

If it's a fairly big opening on a vase type form I'll use a peice of plastic conduit with some stick on velcro stuck around the end. Slap on a standard hook-and-loop pad and use the butter churning motion till it's smooth enough. I'm hoping that for xmas I end up with a scraper attacment for my hollowing tool. The scrapers I have won't reach that deep safely.

Bob