Finishes on pens

[Christopher Hunter]

I've read a lot of threads and asked a few people at woodworking stores and got all kinds of answers, but what I want to know is -
Do most of you guys put the finish on the lathe or off the lathe for pens--
lately I been finishing off the lathe with wipe on poly and have had o.k. results but I would really like to know what most of you do -
I just can't see justifying $25 just for the "friction polish" that I will only use for pens....
any suggestions welcome--
Thanks
--Chris

[Stephen Hibbs]

I use the same polyurethane that I use on bowls and everything else. You can get the friction polishes, but they usually aren't very durable. Lots of people use cyanacrolite glue, which I did once with moderate results; I hear it takes some practice. I recommend polyurethane on the lathe, several coats, and letting it dry for a day at least in between. It has given good results for me if I'm patient and apply several coats. There are SO MANY methods out there, try checking out a pen turning forum.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Chris..........Some folks when they start out are "finishing" challenged. I can be on some days but since starting turning 10 months ago, I'm learning. Friction polish is shellac and wax in most cases. Not a bad finish for most "art" objects that aren't going to be handled daily or doused in water IMHO. It's easy to apply and a rank beginner like me can quickly learn to apply it and present a fairly nicely finished SMALL project. So for beginners, a lot of people recommend friction finishes. It was recommended to me and I went through one bottle of Mylands and am into my 2nd.

That being said, I haven't used any lately but I will when the right opportunity presents it self.

My pen finish will probably draw a lot of criticism but it is what it is. Recently I started turning bottlestoppers and pens. I was looking for a durable finish I could apply quickly and produced a nice looking finish. Locally there is an outstanding turner that I've known for at least 15 years but didn't know he was a turner let alone OUTSTANDING! So when I got ready to do bottlestoppers and pens, I wanted a finish that looked good, was durable and could be quickly applied. I asked him and he said Deft brushing lacquer, friction applied on the lathe. He stated that when friction applied it dried extremely quickly due to the heat of the friction application. I tried one with just lacquer. I was impressed with the sheen but wasn't impressed with the coloration of the wood so I tried something else.

I use BLO friction applied; then I apply a couple coats of Zinzer's dewaxed shellac frictioned and then apply a couple coats of Deft by the friction method. The BLO pops the grain and gives beauty IMHO even to some pretty plain woods. I apply it with a paper towel with the lathe running at a slow speed and then increase the speed and Friction it with another folded paper towel. By the time I get done frictioning it in the pen or bottle stopper is very warm to the touch. I then do the same thing using dewaxed shellac. You can't let the shellac sit or it will pull pieces of the paper towel off. Don't worry though, you can friction it off. Then I often apply a 2nd coat of shellac to make sure I get all of the BLO covered. Then I repeat the process with a couple coats of Deft brushing lacquer.

A lot of folks will say this is not the process to use, I'm sure but here's my take on it.

The BLO adds color, depth and pops the grain.

The dewaxed shellac, Zinzer's Sealcoat seals the BLO into the wood.

The shellac is more durable and will adhere to the dewaxed shellac.

The heat of the frictioning folllowing the application causes all 3 of the aforementioned items to dry much faster than they normally would.

I Beal buff my bottle stoppers. I DON'T buff my pens.

I can finish a pen or bottlestopper in 15-20 minutes and it's done.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it!

This is Ken in Idaho .......hunkered down....ready for the attack!

[Dario Octaviano]

My preferred finish is CA (aka crazy glue). It is not easy to learn/apply but once you got it, it is second to none in durability. I tried lacquer and got good results but it reacts to chemicals/materials (including some pen cases) that it turned me off.

Friction polish is easy and fast but doesn't last (no free lunch as they say). I know a lot who use that as a final touch up to their pen after applying other finish...CA included but I don't.

Another product that had good reviews is Enduro...it is water based so much more friendly than CA.

At any rate, experiment and you will soon find whats best for you.

[Corey Hallagan]

If I spray lacquer I do it off the lathe. Sometimes I wipe on lacquer...which I do on the lathe. My primary pen finish is Enduro Poly and it is applied on the lathe in two parts, a sanding sealer and a gloss coat. Both are micro meshed to 12,000 grit. I really like it. Similar to a CA finish which I love the looks of but can't take the CA fumes. Dario does a killer DA finish. Enduro is a good alternative and it is very durable long lasting finish. Takes a little practice but not to much. Biggest mistake most people make is sandiing thru the finish.
Corey

[Christopher Hunter]

Thanks for the replies ---
anyone have a quick lowdown on how to apply the CA finish===
sounds like something I havn't tried yet
--Chris

[Mark Pruitt]

Thanks for the replies ---
anyone have a quick lowdown on how to apply the CA finish===
sounds like something I havn't tried yet
--Chris

Chris, I'm not a pen turner (yet), but I can tell you that the thick CA glue has a slower drying time so you have more open time to manipulate it once it's on the surface. I'm still talking only seconds, just a few more of 'em. I've used thick CA to fill small cracks and small tearout areas in bowls and it has worked nicely.

[Frank Fusco]

Lot of good advice already posted. My main finish is Deft (other brands don't work as well, dunno why) spray laquer. I put on 3 to 5 coats and let dry in between then polish with Micro Mesh. Lately have been doing some CA but just don't like working with it. OTOH, the finest finishes are by the guys who use CA. It depends on your goals. BTW, use slow speeds for sanding and polishing.

[Daniel Heine]

Hello,

I have recently adopted a new way to finish pens on my lathe. I lokked for a long time at the Beall buffing systems, etc. What I do now is this:

1. Sand from 120 grit through 600 grit at about 800 rpm's
2. Clean blank witha few drops of DNA on a clean paper towel
3. Apply tripoli to the blank while it is spinning on the lathe
4. With a soft, clean white rag, remove the Tripoli from the blank
5. Repeat 3 and 4 with the White Diamond6. Put three drops of BLO on a clean paper towel, and run over blank, then add a few drops of CA glue while moving the paper towel back and forth ober the blank until you smell a strong, unpleasant odor. The CA is now cured, and has a deep, bright shine.
7. Repeat 6 at least two more times.

I have been doing this for about three weeks, and my pens have a really bright, deep shine that will not wear away quickly.

Happy Turning,
Dan Heine

[Dennis Peacock]

Thanks for the replies ---
anyone have a quick lowdown on how to apply the CA finish===
sounds like something I havn't tried yet
--Chris

I used CA for pen finishes before. Had to stop using it. Spent way too much time getting the bushing unstuck from the pen mandrel, getting papertowel tid-bits off the pen blanks and the pen mandrel, kept getting my fingers stuck to almost everything........

In all seriousness though Chris.....Poly or Lacquer are going to be your longest lasting finish on pens. It just takes time to develop your finishing schedule. Finish you pen blanks on the lathe, you'll get a higher sheen finish and sand through 12,000 grit.....you'll be amazed!!!

[Wayne Bitting]

Like a lot of pen turners, I hate the finish part of the process. I use a CA finish but not on everything. The pens I've been selling at work people seem to like the "natural" finish best, which works for me since its quick. Its just the HUT satin and gloss sticks. The pen is shinny for about a week before wearing off like most friction polishes. The pen doesn't feel like plastic and it seems like a no-shine is what has been selling the most.

[Roger Fitzsimonds]

Chris,
I use medium CA glue to finish my pens. I fold a paper towel in to a 4 layer strip. Then while the lathe is spinning about midrange I put a drop or 2 of glue on the paper towel and wipe along the pen fairly quickly covering 1/2 of the pen. then do like wise for the other half. I had this method demonstrated to me. It looked as simple as it is. I usually put 2 or 3 coats on a pen. I have been told the paper towel acts like an activator so you have to move quickly.

Have fun, develop your own method. I thing everyone has their own method that works for them just try as many as you can to see what works for you.

Roger

[Raymond Overman]

Just kidding...

After turning the pen to final dimensions, I sand from 100 grit through about 2400-3600 micromesh. I clean the blank with denatured alchohol and sand with the last couple of grits again if it looks fuzzy. I then apply a coat of thin CA using a piece of wax paper to coat the entire blank. I use wax paper because it doesn't act as a catalyst to the CA and end up sticking to the pen blank. I sand the blanks again starting at 1200 MM - 12000 MM. I apply a liberal coat of thick CA to the pen using wax paper and let it dry naturally. Using the catalyst seems to make the CA dry unevenly or leave dimples. I sand from 1200-12000MM again and apply a second coat if there seems to be imperfections. After sanding the second coat I apply another coat of thin CA to fill any small pores that may have developed in the thick finish and sand again. I then apply a friction polish or carnauba wax as extra layer of protection against "in store" handling.

You can see the results of this finish in the following two pictures. I've been carrying the first pen for a long time and it looks the same as the day I took it off the lathe.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachme...d=115026 2199 http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachme...d= 1143867562

[Frank Kobilsek]

My routine

Sand to 600
Seal with deft
Inspect
If pore-y wood a coat or two of thin CA & resand 400 & 600
EEE
Mylands Friction Polish - better than HUT for some reason IMHO
Assemble
Ren Wax/hand buff

This for pens and bottle stoppers.

Chris, I can show you this.

Frank

WARNING: Chris is visiting my shop tonight. I have a hollowform demo set-up for him. I hope I don't embarrass myself. One of us is likely to learn something tonight, I'm not sure who.

[Christopher Hunter]

yea --
I am eagerly waiting--
I'm even bringing some things for you to see, Frank
I just hope I won't ask too many questions and drive you nuts LOL
see you later
--Chris