View Poll Results: What to do?

Voters
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  • Scrap it!

    2 8.70%
  • CA it!

    16 69.57%
  • Cut it down and CA the small crack

    5 21.74%
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Thread: Spalted Pecan Vase (salvage or not)

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Spalted Pecan Vase (salvage or not)

    Hey everybody, I just had some time this weekend and decided to hit the shop. It's been a while and I was looking forward to it. I started with a piece of Spalted Pecan that had some real promise but then as I turned I found cracks inside. My question is will CA do the trick? Should I cut off the worst crack near the bottom and finish the rest out or with the upper crack as well is this one better as kindling? Any help appreciated. As you can see I have hot hollowed it yet.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Christopher K. Hartley; 09-24-2006 at 2:09 PM.
    Success is the sum of Failure and Learning

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Chris, C/A it or epoxy the bigger ones that you can reach and then turn it until it gets to unsafe. You will be surprised how well that C/A and or epoxy with hold and it looks like you really have the makings of a very nice turning there.

    Don't give up yet....

    Use your tailstock if you need to to push the wood back together... or just color some epoxy and fill it up and then turn it.
    Dick

    No Pain-No Gain- Not!
    No Pain-Good

  3. #3
    It's a pretty piece of wood Chris and I like the shape you got going. Stay with it if you can safely! I think it's going to be nice!

    Corey

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dick Parr
    Chris, C/A it or epoxy the bigger ones that you can reach and then turn it until it gets to unsafe. You will be surprised how well that C/A and or epoxy with hold and it looks like you really have the makings of a very nice turning there.

    Don't give up yet....

    Use your tailstock if you need to to push the wood back together... or just color some epoxy and fill it up and then turn it.
    Dick, do you mean after the CA then turn the speed as high as it will go safely?
    Success is the sum of Failure and Learning

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Chris, "IF" you still have to hollow it out, and plan on turning a tennon on the bottom, I think I would change my plans and cut my loss. I would part it off just above the crack and do something else with what is left. No way would I burn that piece of wood, way to "purddy", but my "shop" is almost all windows and I hate glass work Keep in mind, there are others who know way more than me about this stuff ( you included ) Ca and epoxy can do wonders, but, if you are going to hollow based on glue holding the tenon for hollowing, I would pass. Good luck, nice piece of wood !
    Sometimes we see what we expect to see, and not what we are looking at! Scott

  6. #6
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    Chris - Before I vote, much less offer any advice, I'd like to know what toolage will be used to do the hollowing. To me this makes a huge difference on the potential success factor.
    Only the Blue Roads

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Chris,
    Thats such a nice peice of wood, I'd try CA first and use Dick's suggestion to use the tailstock as a clamp (without the lathe spinning). Wick thin CA into all the cracks then immediately top it off with medium and hit it with hardner. Same thing on the inside as you hollow. If it doesn't look good after its roughed, you can always turn it into a bowl and turn the cracks away. Worth a try anyways.

  8. #8
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    Chris, never never quit !!!!! If you should end up with only a toothpick when your done it will have been a learning experience.
    941.44 miles South of Steve Schlumph

    TURN SAFE

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    The method I would use on the cracks is as follows:

    Press (Stuff) as much coffee grounds, Dark sanding dust, some of the mineral dust available, into the crack as you can.

    Soak the area with "Thin" CA.

    Let it cure naturally - do NOT use accelerator.

    Turn it and admire your handywork!

    Bruce
    "The great thing about Wood Turning is that all you have to do is remove what's not needed to have something beautiful. Nature does tha Hard work."

    M.H. Woodturning, Etc.
    Peoria, Illinois 61554

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy Hoyt
    Chris - Before I vote, much less offer any advice, I'd like to know what toolage will be used to do the hollowing. To me this makes a huge difference on the potential success factor.
    Andy, I have been using a round nose scraper with much success I also use a bowl gouge but I don't like it as well. I'm sure open to suggestions.
    Last edited by Christopher K. Hartley; 09-24-2006 at 11:17 PM.
    Success is the sum of Failure and Learning

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    Kinda figured that's what you say Chris. My thoughts are centered around the notion that - since the piece looks to be about eight or nine inches tall and only has a modest opening - you're gonna have those tools hanging way far off the toolrest. And as such you stand a good chance of bouncing around inside with minimal control at times and are therefore prone to having an unscheduled event. And in turn that could cause whatever repair you effect to "unrepair" itself.

    So.... I suggest that you turn the cracks away and create a shallower vessel. Yup - a lot of the spalting action will go away, which stinks. Wood is cheap, time isn't, and pieces like this need to be turned in one session.

    Maybe you could get something like this.

    chris.jpg
    Only the Blue Roads

  12. #12
    One thing you could also try is wet-sanding it with oil, that will help
    fill in the cracks then use ca glue. That's worked for me with spalted
    pecan & hackberry but It's not a good idea to use that scraper......

  13. #13
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    Thanks everyone, almost 70% of you say CA and 21% say cut. Well I'm going to ponder it just a bit longer. I really want to salvage the whole thing but then I really respect what Andy had to say as well. (don't tell him I said that). The more I examine the crack the deeper and more extensive it shows itself to be. I will keep you all posted on what I decide.
    Success is the sum of Failure and Learning

  14. #14
    John Szarek Guest
    This sycamore jug had cracks in it almost 1/8 in size. I just made some black epoxy, and filled them in. During turning, I had to touch up some of the smaller cracks with ca. It wanted to split along the growth rings so bad it was not funny. Left side is natural spalting , the right is epoxy!


  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Westphalia, Michigan
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    425

    More options!

    Chris, just wanted to throw another idea at you. When I have a bowl that is cracked or has lots of bug holes that go all the way through. I fill them with powdered copper or other metals, and then CA the heck out of it.
    I will qualify my statement to say that I have not CA'ed a crack such as the fault line in you bowl. That bad boy looks like it might 'fall of into the ocean'.
    Some folks have used inlace and othe inlay products to fill cracks, and I distinctly remember one turner who charged a premium for his inlaid "art" bowls. I wondered if he was purpously trying to crack his turnings.
    Another option would be to mix fine black sawdust with CA into the cracks and make more 'spaulting'. NIce looking bowl at any rate, and good luck!

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