Blade Guards

[Larry Norton]

I've read a few posts in the last few days with questions about blade guards. About a year and a half ago, I had my first "run in" with a tablesaw blade. 4 stitches and about 2 hours later I was back home from the emergency room. EXACTLY 2 MONTHS to the day later, before my thumb was completely healed, I did the exact same thing to the same thumb. This time it was the same thumb and 5 stitches, the only problem was they couldn't stitch everything and I was left with about a dime size wound that looked like raw hamburger. My left thumb now has no feeling in the pad and some missing meat on the left side of the nail.

Am I grossing you out yet? I sure hope so. I found out later that a medication I am taking caused my hand to droop and fall onto the blade. After the second time, I ordered Penn State's overarm blade guard. When I got it and assembled it, I hated it! But I had made up my mind I was going to make it work. Within a few days, I had gotten used to it. Now, it scares me to death to start my TS with the guard up.

It was the best $200 I ever spent. I have since taken it off of the arm and hung it from the ceiling. I have also added a Biesemeyer splitter. It's one of those unexciting tools that you really don't want to spend your money on, but please take a look at it.

Greg, although not the perfect solution, I really like your version. Anything that makes you think of that spinning blade and might get in the way of your hand as it gets close to the blade is a great idea.

[Roy Wall]

Good post Larry......

Mine hangs from the ceiling also......a good accessory to have!!

[glenn bradley]

I'm also very happy with the PS guard and plan to change to a cieling mount when I swap saw bodies in a month or so.

[Chris McKimson]

One of my first projects three or so years ago involved cutting a 3/4" piece of ply that was 18" X 30". I was cutting without a guard or splitter, piece ended up flying toward me hitting me hard in the gut. Within a week I had ordered the Biesemeyer overhead guard and splitter and now use it every cut that it's possible and feel safer too!

Chris

[Rob Bodenschatz]

Thanks for that Larry. When I got my PM2000 a few weeks ago, I vowed I would always use the blade guard. Well, that lasted about a day. Couldn't stand it. Your post got me thinking about those overhead guards. I'm glad to hear you like yours but are there other similar products out there in that price range? I'd like to compare before I take the plunge. Anyone else feel free to chime in.

[Dave Falkenstein]

I joined the "Short Thumb Club" a little over 12 years ago, working late in the day ripping thin material without a blade guard. Of course, I also neglected to use a push stick - my bad. I slept in a recliner with my hand elevated for several weeks recuperating from that "accident". Shortly after recovering I invested in the Excalibur overarm guard and a Biesemeyer splitter. I use those safety devices whenever it is possible to use them. The new model of Excalibur has a feature that allows it to rotate out of the normal position, the guard can be removed easily for dado cuts and similar operations that do not accomodate a guard. I am a big fan of guards and splitters now. Better late than never???

[Jim Becker]

While I do use my Biesemeyer splitter 100% of the time it's possible to do so, I honestly do not use the overarm guard as much as I could. But I do use it a lot more than I ever would have used the OEM splitter/guard that came with the saw!

[Frank Fusco]

Without trying to be too judgemental, stay away from tools while on that medication. Even if the table saw accident doesn't happen again, something else is sure to.

[Tom Jones III]

What size hose is used to the guard? The Penn state site only says that it connects to a 4" hose, but doesn't specifically say that it runs 4" all the way to the guard.

[Hoa Dinh]

What size hose is used to the guard? The Penn state site only says that it connects to a 4" hose, but doesn't specifically say that it runs 4" all the way to the guard.

I think the hose at the guard is 2 1/2". There is a reducer just before the support that is attached to the ceiling.

Also take a look at my shop-made splitter. You do need the mouting bracket from a Delta Removable Splitter (about $40). But my splitter is thicker, closer to the blade, and can be used with the GRR-Ripper.

[Bart Leetch]

Hoa Dinh

What metal did you use for your splitter? It looks like part of some kind of a bracket.

I want to use my Grippers with my splitter.

[glenn bradley]

PS Guard (and here's the difference) 4" attachment to the boom reduced to 3", 2 1/2" from the boom to the blade cover. I wish it was 4" all the way however, with a little modification I worked it out so I can remove the hose from the guard hood and swing it over to use on my TS mounted router table fence without running an additional hose. Just looking for the silver lining.

[Al Navas]

Thanks for the post, Larry.

I have been following the discussion closely, as I know how bad TS kickbacks can be. Although I have not yet hung my overhead guard from the ceiling, I will very soon.

In combination with the O/H guard I also highly recommend one of the aftermarket splitters, as most stock splitters and pawls are just too sloppy - these can result in serious kickback when the blade is turned anywhere toward 45°, as the slop prevents the pawls from keeping the cutoff in place.


Al

[Hoa Dinh]

What metal did you use for your splitter? It looks like part of some kind of a bracket.

Yes. I also made a taller one to use when ripping thick lumber.

The splitters came from a Simpson heavy duty strap from Home Depot. It is 0.105", the same thickness as the (more expensive) Bies. cousin of the Delta Removable splitter.

The black leftmost one in the photo is the stock Delta Removeable Splitter with the pawls removed.

[Nissim Avrahami]

Larry, I’m so sorry to hear about your accident and wish you fast recovery.

I’m not a professional so I will say it very carefully.

My TS came with Riving Knife which is different than splitter, it seats a little bit below the blade level and I never had the need to remove it, (dado is not allowed in Europe), and to install the guard it’s only a matter of “click” and tightening butterfly nut.

I found two articles about modifying Splitter to Riving knife:
http://www.garymkatz.com/Tool%20Reviews/RivingKnife.htm
http://benchmark.20m.com/tools/Hamme...vingknife.html

On the pictures you can see how it looks.

niki