Jointer + Rust = Mad!! (Update)

[Ryan Ricks]

Hey all - thought I'd throw this one out to the pros. We had new flooring installed about a week and a half ago. Tonight I finally made it down to the shop to work on the bookcases and heard some water dripping. Upon investigation, found that when replacing the washer and dryer, the installers somehow slit the washer drain hose. To fix it they put some caulk on it and wrapped in in masking tape - needless to say that did not work. Anyhow, the water dripped onto my jointer outfeed table. what's the best way to go about getting this cleaned up?

[Steve Evans]

I'd be going after the company that did the install. They knew that they messed up, and tried to hide it from you. But before I did that, I'd take a green scothbrite pad to it with some WD-40.

Steve

[Alex Shanku]

I scrape with a flat razor, then sand lightly with 120, followed by 220, using my ROS. Then I may or may not use naval jelly. Next, I use a automotive scratch remover. Finally, I use paste wax.

[Ryan Ricks]

I'd be going after the company that did the install. They knew that they messed up, and tried to hide it from you. But before I did that, I'd take a green scothbrite pad to it with some WD-40.

Steve

I am planning on going after the company - I took photos of the "repair" before I unwrapped it, and I took photos of the water on the floor.

Will the WD40 be strong enough to loosen the rust?


Thanks -

Ryan

[Tim Morton]

I am planning on going after the company - I took photos of the "repair" before I unwrapped it, and I took photos of the water on the floor.

Will the WD40 be strong enough to loosen the rust?


Thanks -

Ryan

wd-40 should get you close....it LOOKS alot worse than it really is. before I tried sand paper...I might try some of that hand soap in the orange bottle (gojo??)and a worn out scotch brite pad. Just try and work with the grain of the bed...and take it slow.

[Allen Bookout]

That is so bad!!! First I would find those guys and skin them alive. Then I think that like Steve said I would use WD40 and a fine grade abrasive pad and work away using a power sander to work the pad. Since it has only been a week and a half that might be all that you need. If you need to polish it after that the automotive compounds that are sold at automotive paint stores work well with a power polisher.

I think that I would be leary of using naval jelly as sometimes you can get uneaven bloches using it. If you have to go the chemical route Rust Free by PMS Products woods pretty well. If your hardware store does not have it West Marine usually does. I would only use that as a last resort also.

Then protect with one of the many systems that have been suggested over time on the forum. I use Boeshield T9 and cover with Johnsons Paste Wax or Minwax. Some guys say the Renaissance Wax is superior.

Good luck and I hope that you do not end up in jail when you skin those guys.

Allen

[Michael Conner]

Scotchbrite and WD40 will work wonders. I purchased a grizzly cabinet saw that had a good bit of surface rust on the table. I put the scotchbrite pad on my ROS and sprayed everything down with WD40. After a couple treatments I then buffed with an automotive buffing compound. I was pleased with the results. I'll also echo the above post, it likely is not nearly as bad as it looks. I doubt that there has been any pitting.

Be careful if you use naval jelly. That stuff will really cut the rust, but it will also cause pitting if not thoroughly cleaned and neutralized following use.

[Larry Norton]

Alex, I had a similiar problem when I rolled my Brand New PM66 outside and we got about 25 raindrops while I was inside, I swear all 25 drops hit the saw top. I tried naval jelly in a little spot and it looked awful. I spent 2 days with my random orbit sander and lots of work trying to get it back like it was, but it never happened.

It's like your new truck bed. You're very careful not to get a scratch on it, but then, when you do, you cry for a while, then slowly forget about it and don't pay attention to the next scratch.

Ryan, I'm like the others, the contractors who butchered the plumbing would be buying new beds for the jointer! I might also go to the Better Business Bureau and advise them of the plumber's practices so no one else goes through what you are going through.

[John Keane]

Bioshield "Rust Free" will do wonders. I once used Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish. It removed the rust but did not remove the stain imprint.
Let us know your method and results. All of us will have a rust problem at one time or another.

[Ryan Ricks]

Well, in classic fashion, I cannot find any of the 5-8 cans of WD40 I usually trip over (Let's see - one in the truck, 2 in the garage, 3 in the basement, 1 in the closet, etc...). Everything is closed now so it'll have to wait until tomorrow. I hate putting it off - it can only get more difficult. Thanks for all the input - keep it coming. I'll let you know how it goes.


Thanks,
Ryan

[CPeter James]

While some like "WD40", "PB Blaster" is my rust cutter of choice. It is available at Walmart and most auto supply stores. Did you jointer have the same mirror finish as the table saws? If it had a finish like most tables, and you decide to "fix" them, I would go with wet and dry silicon carbide sandpaper starting with 220 grade, use the PB Blaster as a lubricant, do it by hand and go in a straight line the length of the tables. More up in grades until you are satisfied. You could go as far as 1500 or 2000. That will be the mirror finish area. Been there, done that, got the the tee shirt. You can get the sandpaper at a good body supply dealer.

CPeter

[Jim O'Dell]

Man, that just makes me want to cry. At the very least, I would ask the plumbing firm to pay you what the plumbers make per hour, plus materials, to clean this up. That might get their attention! Plus, they need to fix their screwup that caused the problem to begin with, PRONTO. Jim.

[Jerry White]

Ryan,

I know that most of the methods already mentioned will work, but I have discovered a product that may save you some work and do a good job too. It is called Topsaver and it is available at Woodcraft and Amazon. I have had good results with it on rust removal.

http://empiremfg.com/products/otc/ts/index.html

My sympathies on the damage done and good luck with the contractor. Perhaps you could sell your jointer to the contractor for a good price and buy you a new one.

Jerry

[Bruce Page]

Man, I’d be spittin' FIRE!
I’d go with the WD-40 & scotch-brite over sandpaper. The scotch-brite is more forgiving and will give you a more uniform appearance.
It’s going to be messy so be sure to wear some rubber gloves and spread some news paper under your work area.

[Dev Emch]

Man, I’d be spittin' FIRE!
I’d go with the WD-40 & scotch-brite over sandpaper. The scotch-brite is more forgiving and will give you a more uniform appearance.
It’s going to be messy so be sure to wear some rubber gloves and spread some news paper under your work area.

Spittin' Fire??? ..... Not me! I would be ... ummmm outgassing extremely volatile and combustable vapor and it wouldn't be near as germain nor humain as spitting!

First of all, I would file a claim against these people. As this was a week ago, I would cancel all payment ASAP pending a mutual settlement. All proceeds should be placed in escrow. Escrow charges, etc. will be comming out of their pockets. First of all, as bad as the jointer is, I cannot believe you dont have even more subtantial damage in the ceiling.

In terms of the jointer. Got some bad news for you. If this jointer is a standard wedge bed, you should remove the bed and clean up the outfeed ways. You may also need to clean up the area around the cutter head.

For the tables, I would begin with a medium scrotchbrite pad and move up to some very fine scotchbrite pads. Apply a small area of navel jelly and give it a few minutes to work. DO NOT ALLOW IT TO DRY. If you do, you need to reapply with some wet stuff. Work this area with the pad. Wipe up with a paper towel. When done, wash completely with warm water and wipe dry. IMMEDIATELY following the bubble bath with water, spary all machined surfaces that were expsosed with WD-40. Get the oll on the table and smeared out over the work area. Leave the WD-40 in liquid form for some time as it absorbs any stray water still attached to the main frame.