Birth of a shop

[Marty Walsh]

Well, my reprieve from the up-high stuff is over since the porch is pretty much done to the point I need until I side the shop.

Today I got back to work on the lookouts. Before I headed up into the trusses, I thought I'd get all of them made for both sides of the shop:

Attachment 45358

Aside from rigidity and stability, another benefit of making the lookouts as stiff-backs is that I got to use up all of the twisted stuff that got ruined in the weather. It was too twisted for framing, but once I threw some clamps on it and shot a bunch of nails into it connecting it to another board, it was just fine for the lookouts. Regardless, that's a bunch of lumber just for lookouts!!!

And here they are all built and loaded onto the scaffolding. One for the west side that I already started, and one (closest in the picture) for the east side I'm yet to tackle.

Attachment 45359 Attachment 45360

With them all built, it was time to stop procrastinating and get up into the trusses to install them. I got the first one measured, marked and nailed in place. I was about to put the second in its place when Denise came out to let me know that there were some serious thunderstorms moving our way.

Since I had all sorts of power tools out and about, I had to break and get everything put up and tarps on the remaining lumber before the rain started. I was so heart broken that I had to get down from up inside the trusses...

But, I'll be back at it again tomorrow...

Thanks for following...
- Marty -

[Mark Rios]

Marty, I'm not sure exactly what you mean by the term "lookouts" in referring to the pieces that you have nailed up, other than to "look out, it's gonna fall on your head!"

I notice that you, as yet, have no blocks between the trusses at the wall line. Could these "lookouts" be truss blocks? Judging from the pics they look to be about the right size. I've never installed truss blocks nailed together at a 90 before though. (BTW, over on this coast anyway, the truss company usually provides the blocks for your job.)

Anyway, if they are blocks for between the trusses, do any of them have holes in them for venting? Or are you putting in actual seperate vents every so often at the wall line?

[Mark Rios]

Aaaahhh....okay....I went back a couple of posts and saw that you referenced lookouts before. These are going on the gable ends right? Okay.

Out here we call them outriggers. However, we only place them approximately 48" apart depending on what the specs call for. Do your specs in fact call for them to be that close together/to use that many?

Maybe it's a difference in the local code requirements.

[Marty Walsh]

Aaaahhh....okay....I went back a couple of posts and saw that you referenced lookouts before. These are going on the gable ends right? Okay.

Out here we call them outriggers. However, we only place them approximately 48" apart depending on what the specs call for. Do your specs in fact call for them to be that close together/to use that many?

Maybe it's a difference in the local code requirements.

Mark,

One of the things I've learned while working on this project is that I know more or less what I'm doing. But I'm having a heck of a time with the terminology. And to make matters worse, the terms change depending on locale. I always thought outriggers had something to do with boating and/or fishing. But what do I know?

Since I did all the design work, there were no 'specs' for the lookouts/outriggers, (other than what I drew in Sketchup). But I don't want the roof line sagging on the gable ends, so I'm putting them on 16" centers. That way plywood will line up nicely, and it'll be good and rigid. With a 16" overhang, I think 48" centers would be a bit too far to support the weight of shingles on 5/8" plywood. But that's just my opinion.

Overkill? Of course...you should come to expect that of me by now...

Oh, and the only 'code' I have to adhere to out here in the boonies is to make sure Denise and I are happy with what I come up with.

Thanks...
- Marty -

[Marty Walsh]

Marty, I'm not sure exactly what you mean by the term "lookouts" in referring to the pieces that you have nailed up, other than to "look out, it's gonna fall on your head!"

I notice that you, as yet, have no blocks between the trusses at the wall line. Could these "lookouts" be truss blocks? Judging from the pics they look to be about the right size. I've never installed truss blocks nailed together at a 90 before though. (BTW, over on this coast anyway, the truss company usually provides the blocks for your job.)

Anyway, if they are blocks for between the trusses, do any of them have holes in them for venting? Or are you putting in actual seperate vents every so often at the wall line?

Mark,

Hmmm, now you have me thinking...

Do I actually 'need' blocks between the trusses at the wall line? In addition to the ridge vent and gable end vents I plan on, I had planned to install the usual vents in the soffits to allow air to enter up into the attic. But I didn't have plans for any blocks between the trusses, and my truss supplier made no mention of that either. I would assume that once the trusses are sheathed/decked, any blocks between the trusses would be rendered useless/redundant. Am I missing something...?

Another 'coastal anomaly'?

Still learning...
- Marty -

[Andy Hoyt]

My guess is that Mark's referring to blocking that's used in conjunction with something along the lines of an A35 clip (Simpson#) that gets spec'd for tying wall and roof together in seismic and Exposure C (or higher) wind loaded areas.

[Marty Walsh]

My guess is that Mark's referring to blocking that's used in conjunction with something along the lines of an A35 clip (Simpson#) that gets spec'd for tying wall and roof together in seismic and Exposure C (or higher) wind loaded areas.

Andy,

So, it IS another coastal thing. The truss engineer and I looked closely at the uplift figures on my trusses. One of the Simpson H2.5A hurricane clips I used would have come within a few pounds of satisfying the engineer, but two made me feel much more secure. Plus at $0.20 each, plus nails, that's cheap insurance in my eyes!

Thanks for clearing that up...
- Marty -

[Mark Rios]

That application is correct Andy in the locales that have requirements for the extra forces/loads etc. such as earthquake or wind. However, a row of blocks at the wall line helps keep the trusses from moving/rolling and provide a nailing line that adds to the shear properties of the roof.

In your case there Marty, depending on where you are in Georgia in relation to how much storm activity you see, you might want to utilize the application that Andy mentions, a block nailed at the wall line (it leans out a little so that the top of the block is parallel to the plane of the roof/trusses. Snap a line from one end of the roof to the other to assure a straight line) with 2 16d nails into each end and a Simpson A35 (or equivalent) nailed into the block and into the top plate. When yo nail off your roof, you will nail into the top of these blocks as well. This will add to the overall strength of your roof (in regards to wind resistance) and will help keep your roof from blowing off in the next big wind or hurricane that you get, and subsequent ones too hopefully.

If you do put blocks in, you will need to employ some means to get the air flow from your soffits to the ridge, probably by drilling holes in your blocks.

I just read your last post in reply to Andy and it sounds like you have a close relationship to your truss guy. You might give him a call and ask about blocking the trusses at the wall line. Perhaps he has already addressed it in his calcs.

[Marty Walsh]

Mark,

Thanks for clarifying. I'll give my truss guy a holler and see what he says. Although, some bracing that was negated by me sheathing/decking the upstairs, and the hurricane clips are the only two things he called out.

Thanks...
- Marty -

[Marty Walsh]

Well, I was feverishly working away on the lookouts (outriggers for you folks on the other coast ) again today, when Denise came running to tell me to get down off the trusses. Here's what she helped me miss by minutes:

Attachment 45399

I got 29 of them installed today, with about 15 or 20 to go. I can put another 5-6 on that back row with no problem. But, the remaining ones are the really tough ones since I can't reach up that high from the scaffolding in the shop.

Oh well, tomorrow's another day.

Oh wait, IWF starts tomorrow!!!

Oh wait, my windows, doors and microlam beam are supposed to be delivered tomorrow.

What to do...
- Marty -

[Steve Clardy]

I think everyones talking about the wall fillers like these on my addition.


Look between the rafters, on top on the wall.



Post #19. Pic with the white ford


http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=9348

[Cody Colston]

Marty,

I sure am enjoying reading your posts and seeing the pictures you put up.

Placing those lookouts on 16" centers is overkill but it never hurts to overbuild...look at Roman bridges!

I lay mine "on-the-flat" and let them into the rafters...spanning three of them plus the fly rafter on 4' centers.

Also, I don't think you need blocking in between the rafters if you are planning on decking the roof. If installing a metal roof like Steve's, then the blocking might add some torsional strength.

Consider a continuous soffit vent to get air circulating between each rafter instead.

Keep posting.

[Chris Padilla]

I think everyones talking about the wall fillers like these on my addition.

Look between the rafters, on top on the wall.

Post #19. Pic with the white ford

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=9348

Gee, Steve, my eyeball hurts from trying to see WTH you are talking about! You have that pic in a larger size maybe??!!

[Marty Walsh]

Gee, Steve, my eyeball hurts from trying to see WTH you are talking about! You have that pic in a larger size maybe??!!

Chris,

I'm glad you said that! I thought it was just me...

I enlarged the picture Steve was referring to and could make out blocking on top of the top plate, which is what I think he was trying to point me to.

Concensus, though, is that I don't need it the way I'm doing things.

- Marty -

[Marty Walsh]

Marty,

I sure am enjoying reading your posts and seeing the pictures you put up.

Placing those lookouts on 16" centers is overkill but it never hurts to overbuild...look at Roman bridges!

I lay mine "on-the-flat" and let them into the rafters...spanning three of them plus the fly rafter on 4' centers.

Also, I don't think you need blocking in between the rafters if you are planning on decking the roof. If installing a metal roof like Steve's, then the blocking might add some torsional strength.

Consider a continuous soffit vent to get air circulating between each rafter instead.

Keep posting.

Cody,

Glad to hear you're enjoying following my little adventure, and the picture updates.

As for my lookouts, I've overbuilt so many other aspects of the shop, why start skimping now?

Laying the lookouts flat, as you decribe, wouldn't be to my liking since those are 40' long trusses, and I'd rather not notch them. I had them construct the gable end trusses 5 1/2" shorter then the others, so my lookouts could sit on top of the gable end trusses and be level with the rest of the roof. Building them as stiff-backs just makes them nice and stout!

I agree with there being no need for blocking between the truss ends. And yes, I'm decking (and shingling) the roof which will add all the rigidity I think I'll need.

I'm looking into the soffits now. I'm thinking about either typical thin plywood soffit with liberal installation of vents, or a vinyl perforated soffit. I spoke with my wholesaler today and he's looking into what colors I can get that in. No maintenance and easier installation works for me.

Thanks for following...
- Marty -