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Thread: A review of the EZ-Smart Festool SRK (long)

  1. #1
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    A review of the EZ-Smart Festool SRK (long)

    I had an opportunity to try out an alternate way of attaching the Festool OF1400 Router to the Festool Guide Rail.

    The Festool Smart Router Kit (F-SRK) is a device made by EurekaZone (EZ-Smart) for attaching a router (or other tools) to a Festool Guide Rail. The F-SRK consists of three parts:

    Base – the part that slides on the Guide Rail.

    Bar – the part that attaches to the Base and allows movement of the router perpendicular to the Guide Rail.

    Mounting Plate – the part attached to the Bar that the Router mounts on.

    Before using the F-SRK, some adjustments were needed for squareness. The Mounting Plate attaches to the Bar with two bolts and wing nuts. There is a bend in both pieces and the Mounting Plate is intended to be flat on the surface of the work-piece. I disassembled the Mounting Plate from the Bar and bent the angle on both pieces so that both were a right angle. Forming the angle is not an issue, since the parts are aluminum. After remounting the Mounting Plate to the Bar, the Mounting Plate sat flat on the work-piece, as it should - see Photo 1.

    The F-SRK Base has plastic parts fitted on the top and bottom of an aluminum plate. Two plastic pieces on the bottom of the Base form a channel over the rib on the Guide Rail. Two plastic pieces on the top of the Base form a channel where the Bar slides. The two sets of plastic channel pieces need to be adjusted.

    The sequence I chose was to adjust the Guide Rail channel pieces first. Two recessed bolts lock each of the pieces to the bottom of the Base. The holes are oversized, allowing some adjustment. The purpose of this adjustment is to allow the Base to fit snugly on the Guide Rail, and yet slide smoothly. I had to drill two of the holes in the black plastic parts slightly larger, in order to have ample room for adjustment. I found the adjustment of the F-SRK base on the guide rail difficult to do, since the bolts that allow this adjustment are accessed only from the bottom of the base. It is a trial and error process - removing the base, making the adjustment, trying the base on the rail, and repeating the process.

    I have adjusted the F-SRK base on the guide rail many times. The best I can do is to get the F-SRK base to a point where there is a very small amount of play on the rail and it will still slide. If I eliminate the play, the F-SRK will not slide on the rail - it is too tight. I believe it would be easier to make this adjustment if the smaller of the two plastic parts were cut into two pieces, allowing each to be adjusted independently.

    Adjusting the top plastic parts on the Base to allow the Bar to slide smoothly and in a line perpendicular to the Guide rail is simple, since the wing nuts that lock the Bar to the Base are accessible from the top of the base. I drew a long line on a work-piece, square to the Guide Rail. Loosening all four wing nuts and adjusting the Bar to slide square to the Guide Rail took only a few seconds - see Photo 2.

    With the adjustments completed I moved to mounting the Festool OF1400 Router onto the Mounting Plate. The OF1400 Router has marks on the router base that define the centerline of the router bit. It is important to mount the router to the Mounting Plate so that these marks are accurate. I drew a line on the Mounting Plate, through the center of the hole in the Mounting Plate, and parallel to the Guide Rail. Next I made a secondary base for the OF1400 Router that would fit onto the bottom of the Mounting Plate. This secondary base is necessary to allow countersunk bolts to be used to hold the Router onto the Mounting Plate. The Mounting Plate is not thick enough to drill countersinks directly into the Mounting Plate. I used a round plastic base, offered by Pat Warner, called the “Generic 7 inch Round Plate”. I removed the standard base from the Router, and used it to mark and drill two holes in the Mounting Plate. There are two threaded holes in the bottom of the Router that are not normally used that I chose for the mounting bolts. Bolts were purchased at Ace Hardware. This mounting method has the advantage of simplicity, in that the Router can be removed from the Mounting Plate by removing the two mounting bolts, while the standard router base stays in place on the Router.

    The round base was then aligned onto the Mounting Plate and the holes center-punched into the round plastic base. After drilling holes and countersinks, the Router was mounted on the Mounting Plate (Photo 3), and then onto the Bar/Base assembly, and finally onto the Guide Rail (Photo 4).

    The assembled unit rides smoothly on the rails. The bottom line is the F-SRK provides an effective alternative for mounting the OF1400 Router on the Festool Guide Rail. Note that any router could be used, just as easily.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Dave Falkenstein; 05-20-2006 at 2:01 PM.
    Dave Falkenstein aka Daviddubya
    Cave Creek, AZ

  2. #2
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    Interesting, Dave! Thanks!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Suffolk County, Long Island NY
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    Dave,

    Looks great. When I adjusted mine I made it what I thought was overly snug to the rail and when I put the router on and slid it along the weight of the router made it feel smooth as can be without resistance.

    Thanks for a very detailed review.

    Pete

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Los angeles
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    i also own the festool version of the SRK. its a great little gizmo for those who wish to use the festool guide rail with a non festool router.

    i also noticed that if you eliminate the play between the base's rectangular plastics and the guide rial rib the SRK doesn't slide smoothly, so its best to fiddle with it till' you find the sweet spot.

  5. #5
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    Mar 2006
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    Los angeles
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    question for Dave

    i was jus wondering what did you think of the festool router guide stop, that is if you tryed it?

    i was seriously contemplating the possibility of getting the OF1400 with the guide stop but after playing with it at a local dealer i wasn't convinced, it felt kinda plasticky and that little leg thing didn't impress me at all.

    i might get the OF1400 in the futute. the router it self is a solid winner, the guide stop however left me disappointed.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rafael Carias
    question for Dave

    i was jus wondering what did you think of the festool router guide stop, that is if you tryed it?

    i was seriously contemplating the possibility of getting the OF1400 with the guide stop but after playing with it at a local dealer i wasn't convinced, it felt kinda plasticky and that little leg thing didn't impress me at all.

    i might get the OF1400 in the futute. the router it self is a solid winner, the guide stop however left me disappointed.
    Rafael - Take a look at this thread - it addresses your concerns:

    http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=36120

    Each of these devices has merits. Which one you choose is a matter of personal preference. Both work well, IMHO.
    Last edited by Dave Falkenstein; 05-14-2006 at 10:40 PM.
    Dave Falkenstein aka Daviddubya
    Cave Creek, AZ

  7. #7
    Hi Dave,

    Thanks for the lengthy description of your efforts with the 1400.

    Since you seem so comfortable with the router accessories, I wanted to ask you if there is some slick way that you reference your dadoes when using this setup. What I mean is, that (with my of1010) I have been able to use a technique from the Workshop Demos where the location of the edge of the straight bit is zeroed in on the edge of the guide. When I am using the MFT, I am able to reference the location of the dado by laying the edge of the guide on top of a mark and then cut my dado right on that mark.

    I am looking at your photos and see that the hardware would prevent moving the bit right up to the edge of the guide (does the Festool supplied 1400 hardware allow for this?). I've seen guide systems where a piece of plywood gets tee-nutted to the bottom of the guide and then the router with the straight bit makes a pass to create a reference mark. I was wondering if you had developed an elegant method that works with the hardware that you describe when using the festool guide or the guide on the MFT.

    Thanks in advance!

    Roland

  8. #8
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    Nov 2003
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    Cave Creek, AZ - near Phoenix
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roland Chung
    Hi Dave,

    Thanks for the lengthy description of your efforts with the 1400.

    Since you seem so comfortable with the router accessories, I wanted to ask you if there is some slick way that you reference your dadoes when using this setup. What I mean is, that (with my of1010) I have been able to use a technique from the Workshop Demos where the location of the edge of the straight bit is zeroed in on the edge of the guide. When I am using the MFT, I am able to reference the location of the dado by laying the edge of the guide on top of a mark and then cut my dado right on that mark.

    I am looking at your photos and see that the hardware would prevent moving the bit right up to the edge of the guide (does the Festool supplied 1400 hardware allow for this?). I've seen guide systems where a piece of plywood gets tee-nutted to the bottom of the guide and then the router with the straight bit makes a pass to create a reference mark. I was wondering if you had developed an elegant method that works with the hardware that you describe when using the festool guide or the guide on the MFT.

    Thanks in advance!

    Roland
    Roland - Using the F-SRK, the router bit cannot be set at the edge of the guide rail, and I'm not sure you would want to set the bit at the edge of the guide. If the bit ran along the rubber chip guard strip, it seems to me it would damage the strip. Using the Festool Guide Stop, I think the router bit could be set against the edge of the guide rail, but, again, I would not use it that way.

    I cut dadoes with the guide rail using the centerline as the reference, and setting the router on the centerline. This method works best when using the router and guide rail on the MFT where the guide rail is square to the fence at the top of the table. I have not experimented with any other more elegant method - yet.
    Dave Falkenstein aka Daviddubya
    Cave Creek, AZ

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    20 miles NW of Phila, PA
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    Roland,

    You might want to check out "SRK tips for Plywood Dados" at http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=36498

    There are 3 or 4 methods listed and/or referenced for doing dados using the SRK (Smart Router Kit) and none of them depend on the Guide so they should be applicable to your situation.

    Dave,

    Thanks for the write up! I noticed that in your first picture, it showed the vertical "limit stops". Did you get a chance to use them? Did you get the horizonal "limit stops" and if so, do they fit on the Festool Guide Rail?

    Regards, Joe
    Two weeks, your project will be done in two weeks!!! (From the Money Pit)

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joseph N. Myers
    Dave,

    Thanks for the write up! I noticed that in your first picture, it showed the vertical "limit stops". Did you get a chance to use them? Did you get the horizonal "limit stops" and if so, do they fit on the Festool Guide Rail?

    Regards, Joe
    Joe - I see how the F-SRK Limit Stops work, but did not test them - yet. They are pretty simple - they mount through the slot in the Bar, one on each side of the Base, providing two positive stops for the Bar position. There are no reference points for setting the Limit Stops, so the first setup is trial-and-error, as I see it. Once set, the repeatability appears sure and certain.

    The rail limit stops that are used with the F-SRK are the Festool Limit Stops, FS - Item #485827. I do not believe the EZ rail Limit Stops are compatible with the Festool rails.
    Dave Falkenstein aka Daviddubya
    Cave Creek, AZ

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